38/44 with a problem.

flytyer70

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I recently found out through the knowledge of others here that I had a 38/44 Heavy Duty made about 1953. I was really pleased at this, but have now run into a very big problem. I just went shooting with friends and was enjoying the gun and the worst happened. I apparently had a squib that didn't clear the barrel. Not realizing this I shot my next round and things didn't sound right. I think I have 2 rounds in barrel and the cylinder is jammed. Can anyone suggest a good gunsmith that could help me out? Also I think that the barrel (6.5) may have to be replaced, which may be the bigger issue. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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you may try tapping the bullet back down the barrel into the chamber with a wooden dowel, but MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE A LOADED ROUND IN THE CHAMBER ALIGNED WITH THE BARREL! If there are two bullets lodged in the barrel, tap until one passes the forcing cone, then you should be able to open the cylinder. You may also have gotten Very Lucky, if you did not damage the gun.
 
It sounds like you have part of the bullet in the barrel and part in the cylinder. You can drive the bullet back into the cylinder with a dowl rod or may be a cleaning rod so that you can open the cylinder then drive the other bullet out. If you have a barrel bulge, you should be able to feel it by running you fingers along the barrel.
 
Hi:
Ditto on the previous advice on removing the bullets.
If you are very lucky and the barrel is not bulged you might have a "Ring" in the bore.
Please post the results afterwards.
Jimmy
 
Bad news for me. I have tried the dowel tap with no success. Also with careful inspection I believe there is a subtle bulge mid barrel. Any other suggestions what to do now?
 
Hi:
You may consider a more heavier "Tap".
If there are two bullets in the bore, make sure you move just the lower
bullet into the cartridge case thus leaving the top bullet in the bore until you can open the cylinder and then tap the last bullet out of the bore.
The reason is the cartridge case is not long enough to accept both bullets
Jimmy
 
A slight bulge in the barrel may not affect accuracy at all.
Like above poster said,, Tap~~SMACK~~ harder!
Peter
 
If you're going to be using a lot of force I suggest n ot using a wood dowel, if it splinters off in there you have more problems, try a thick brass rod if possible.
Good luck.
 
Good advice so far.

ALSO- before tapping/smacking any more, LUBE everywhere. Spray from muzzle. Spray forcing cone and into cylinder.
Use either WD-40, Kroil, or a good penetrating oil.

Do NOT use a steel rod. Do NOT use a screwdriver. Do NOT use anything harder that brass or aluminum.
The closer to bore diameter you can get with the rod, the better.
 
Cast or jacketed bullet? If cast, you could possibly use an old muzzleloader trick for unloading, and that is to mount a screw to the tip of a rod, screw it into the bullet in front, then pull it through the barrel. Also, look around for a Delrin rod, they wont splinter and also won't mar the bore.

If all else fails, let me know if you want to sell it! I love nframes....
 
At this point it's probably rivited in there pretty good.
As said..lots of lube & the largest/bore size aluminum, brass flat faced rod you can fit in there to punch the bullet back into the case is your best bet.

If they continue to do nothing but upset further and refuse to move,,then drilling them out as large as possible to weaken them to be able to shear the thin walled remains off by forcing the cylinder open.

A drill that is as large as possible but still using a brass pilot riding the bore is the normal procedure. Lead drills easy of course but ties up the bit quickly so lube and clear the drill often.

Even though there is a ring in the bore, protect it as much as possible in any repairs. There is always the possibility of saving the barrel by cutting it back or just using it as it. Replacement or rebore/caliber conversions are expensive.

FWIW.....
I've seen revolvers opened up like this by shearing off the entire bullet that was stuck betw the cylinder and the barrel. Wooden blocks were used to support the frame on the left side and the gun was put in a vise. The revolver opened by closing the vise and pushing on the cylinder from the right side(on another wooden block) and the bullet sheared off.
Remember to push the thumb piece!

It worked,,but I didn't have a chance to closely examine the parts afterwards to see if anything was damaged as far as bent yoke, etc.
I think if carefully done it can be effective, but it was being done in this instance when a quantity of revolvers where being stripped for parts (remember that when you by gun parts!).

Drilling the offending bullet out if needed and then shearing the thin walled remains is a much safer course I think...
 
If you've got a subtle bulge mid-barrel-and can confirm the location of a bullet in that area by a rod down the muzzle-and a bullet in the forcing cone/cylinder- you've got a barrel full of bullets!

Having worked one of these, considerable force is going to be necessary to remove the bullets. In any case, you'll need a hard brass rod that rides the tops of the lands.

A path that might be worth taking is to drill the bullets. You'll need 2 brass bushings that will ride the rifling lands and center the drill bits. Drilling by hand with a brace, you can probably go as large as 5/16 " on your drill bit. That would considerably reduce the amount of force necessary to drive the slugs out.

BTW, pulling breechloader bullets isn't anywhere as easy as pulling muzzleloader bullets. It may be possible, but drilling is easier and provides less chance of leaving you with a steel rod broken off inside the barrel.
 
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probably a good call, WR, I'vew done it with lead but not with a jacketed bullet. Chances are these are jacketed, as lead slips down the bore a bit easier....drilling is an option, but great care must be taken to assure no further damage. I haven't tried shearing a bullet and have no idea what the shear strength may be, particularly on copper
 
All being said, it's pretty easy to gunsmith a problem we can't see...if these solutions aren't working or you're not comfortable/confident doing these, please consult a gunsmith. I'd hate to see a nice old revolver damaged
 
After you get the bullets out and asses the barrel, let me know as barrels are available.
Bill
 
Any luck yet? Just hoping you get it up and running again, I love my H/D, a 6 1/2" retired Washington State Patrol revolver...one of the most accurate and pleasant to shoot handguns I have ever handled
 
O M G. This is one very well built gun. I am still working on it as time permits. This issue of more than one bullet in the barrel has grown. I really do not know how many bullets are in there. What I have determined so for is that about half the length of the barrel is packed. I have been able to remove half of the problem. These 38/44 heavy duty are seriously HEAVY DUTY. Will check in later with results. Thanks for all of the good information.
 
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