38 chamber crud in 357 help please

[Fide686]

I mainly shoot specials in my mags. I have 1000's but few mag cases. Brushes just don't get the ring of crud out. I'm using a non- toxic blue solvent and bore paste that works well in the barrel, and plastic brush on both.
Thanks in advance for your help. (I greatly apreciate the expertise here.)

 

[101Voodoo]

If you reload, or know someone who does, you can take a .357 case and bell it out to where it just barely enters the chamber.

Push it all the way in with your thumb and it'll scrape just about all the residue out.

Helps if you chamfer the case rim to create a sharp edge.

 

[Goblin]

Just to clarify, are you sure you're not confusing the ledge of the chamber throat with crud? If crud is indeed keeping magnum cases from chambering, try a stainless steel brush. These are hard on bores, so bronze brushes should be used there, but sometimes a SS brush will work well in the cylinder. Use a solvent like Shooter's Choice. The belled case trick discussed above is effective as well.

 

[Jingles]

I don't do it often, but when it gets really bad I will remove the cylinder and chuck up a proper bronze bore brush in a cordless drill, dip it in Hoppes or Ballistol, and slowly work it back and forth in each chamber while I hold the cylinder in my hand. Works great.

 

[cowboy4evr]

an old gunsmith told me if that happens , to use a piece of " chore boy " (copper scouring pad ) wrapped around an old bore brush dipped in some solvent will definitely clean it w/o harming the chambers themselves as Chore Boy is pure copper . For the solvent -- kerosene , Kroil , marvel mystery oil etc . Most Ace Hdwe Stores carry Chore Boy . Good luck

 

[rwsmith]

Preventative measures.....

I reload .38 special loads in .357 cases. The ring isn't that big of a deal to me, but at tje range I like to go from shooting .38 to .357 without cleaning out the cylinders.

 

[Old cop]

Has anyone tried a piece of lead removal cloth wrapped around a bronze bore brush?

 

[tomcatt51]

The ring is tough to remove. A cordless drill, a short piece of cleaning rod with a heavy duty .375 rifle bore brush and your favorite powder solvent will do it.

I clean my revolver chambers this way before each match but with bigger brushes for bigger calibers. Try it in a chamber you thought you had clean. You'll most likely be surprised by how much crud you get out.

 

[bountyhunter]

an old gunsmith told me if that happens , to use a piece of " chore boy " (copper scouring pad ) wrapped around an old bore brush dipped in some solvent will definitely clean it w/o harming the chambers themselves as Chore Boy is pure copper . For the solvent -- kerosene , Kroil , marvel mystery oil etc . Most Ace Hdwe Stores carry Chore Boy . Good luck

Improving on that idea: take a NYLON .38 bore brush on a 4" rod and chuck it in your hand drill. Take some scotchbrite pads and cut strips about 1.5" long. Wrap them TIGHTLY into the bore brush and force it into the cylinder tube. Use drill to spin and it will break down the hard carbon rings. For very heavy buildup, take some chrome polish and a Q tip and coat the burn rings and let that soak a few hours then scrub.

 

[H Richard]

Clymer de-leader is a chamber reamer that just cuts the carbon ring out of the chamber. I bought one in the 80's. Insert in chamber and a couple twists and it's clean.

 

[rwsmith]

I just noticed.....

You said you were using plastic brushes. A bronze bore brush is indicated here. It shouldn't require more unless it's some kind of leading, which doesn't seem likely in the little step at the end of the cartridge part of the chamber unless it's 'shaving' the bullet.

 

[OKFC05]

A Brownells tornado brush will take the carbon/lead right out. My IDPA Model 66 gets a steady diet of .38 Spl and a extra clean with the tornado brush every few months. No big deal.

 

[Nevada Ed]

Just break down and buy..................

100 ...... 357 magnum cases for your 357 magnum.

 

[kbm6893]

I don't do it often, but when it gets really bad I will remove the cylinder and chuck up a proper bronze bore brush in a cordless drill, dip it in Hoppes or Ballistol, and slowly work it back and forth in each chamber while I hold the cylinder in my hand. Works great.

I clean all my revolver chambers with a cordless drill and an.40 cal brush in the rod chucked into the drill. Gets them mirror bright in about 5 seconds each chamber hole. Follow up with a few solvent soaked patches and they come out black and then one wet patch comes out perfectly clean. Followed by a dry patch.

Don't do this for the barrel, of course. But a spinning brush on low to a smooth chamber hole isn't gonna hurt anything. Been doing it for 20 years.

 

[crankyoldlady]

I reload .38 special loads in .357 cases. The ring isn't that big of a deal to me, but at tje range I like to go from shooting .38 to .357 without cleaning out the cylinders.

I, too, load my .38 SPLs in .357 cases.

 

[lebomm]

.40 cal. bronze brush w/Hoppe's on a short cleaning rod segment in a drill motor.

Larry

 

[Alk8944]

The only good idea** in this thread is in 101Voodoo's post. This works in .357 and .44 Magnum chambers. I would change only one thing that he said!

Select a .357 case, just touch the case mouth with your case trimmer, just enough to make a sharp edge on the outside of the case mouth. Then flare the case to the point that can barely get it into the chamber. Push the case into the chambers until it contacts the fouling ring, then push firmly with your thumbs. It takes only once to chip the fouling ring out. Far easier and quicker than brushes, drills, Chore Boy, etc. Using the case trimmer leaves the case still usable. If you chamfer it to the point of making a sharp edge on the case mouth you have ruined the case for loading as a .357! The edge from using the case trimmer is stronger too.

**If you don't mind spending the money, H Richard's idea of the Clymer de-leader is good too. They are available from Brownells but are a bit pricey. Used to be! Can't find them anymore. Was going to say Sinclair, but that is Brownells now. Guess there aren't that many bullseye shooters using revolvers anymore.

 

[bountyhunter]

You said you were using plastic brushes. A bronze bore brush is indicated here.

If you spin a bronze brush on a drill the bristles will break off and end up all kinds of places.

Guess how I learned that......

 

[chief38]

Try a Lewis Lead Remover. JB Bore Cleaner will also work. I also recommend Bronze Brushes from Brownells as they are MUCH BETTER than the ones in blister packs in the LGS's or Big Box stores. For really tough crud, use a CHAMBER Brush in .357 instead of the Bore Brush. It is slightly larger and a little more aggressive on crud. Just note that the Chamber Brushes will not hold up as long as there is more pressure on the bristles, however they do work well.

 

[cowboy4evr]

I have personally tried using a 357 case , sharpened and flared to fit the cylinder well . It was only partially successful . It did NOT completely remove all the crud . The bore brush , a piece of Chore Boy and some solvent cured my problem . YOu can spin the bore brush on a drill or just do the scrubbing by hand , either way works well . Now it's up to you to find out what works and what doesn't work , good luck .