38 Rat shot
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Binding because the shot cups on unfired rounds are moving forward? I make my own using Speer shot capsules and if not crimped adequately they can pull loose under recoil. Crimping is tricky as it is easy to crush the capsule with much pressure. I give them as much crimp as seems appropriate and then put a bead of crazy glue around the end of the brass touching the plastic capsule. That works pretty well most of the time.
Jeff
SWCa #1457
Jeff
SWCa #1457
Thanks so should i touch some crazy glue to the factory shells?
JohnK
US Veteran
You can make the shot shells MUCH more effective, by handloading the capsules with # 11, or # 12 shot.
The # 9 shot, has a very poor pattern.
The # 9 shot, has a very poor pattern.
I make my own from 357 brass.
Cut some cardboard from a cereal box with an empty case. One card goes over the powder and one goes over the shot. Most people use #9 shot. I use bullseye powder but can't remember the weight. After the powder throw put a card in. Then fill the case to within about 1/8" of the case mouth with shot. Put another card over that. Put a slight roll crimp on the case. Cover the card with hot candle wax to seal it.
357 cases work in a 38 because the OAL is shorter than a 38 cylinder. With this method there's no shot case to migrate in the cylinder. This is essentially a miniature shotgun shell before the invention of shot cups.
You can find a video that demonstrates the process on YT. It's pretty easy.
Shot size is debatable. No revolver with rifling is going to give you a decent pattern. It takes a smooth bore and choke to regulate a pattern. Smaller shot will give you a denser pattern, that's about all you can hope for with this method.
Cut some cardboard from a cereal box with an empty case. One card goes over the powder and one goes over the shot. Most people use #9 shot. I use bullseye powder but can't remember the weight. After the powder throw put a card in. Then fill the case to within about 1/8" of the case mouth with shot. Put another card over that. Put a slight roll crimp on the case. Cover the card with hot candle wax to seal it.
357 cases work in a 38 because the OAL is shorter than a 38 cylinder. With this method there's no shot case to migrate in the cylinder. This is essentially a miniature shotgun shell before the invention of shot cups.
You can find a video that demonstrates the process on YT. It's pretty easy.
Shot size is debatable. No revolver with rifling is going to give you a decent pattern. It takes a smooth bore and choke to regulate a pattern. Smaller shot will give you a denser pattern, that's about all you can hope for with this method.
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Also---since you reload them
I have a dillon 550 that i load 38s with. What do i have to do special or different to load the shot capsules.
What components should I use? Who makes the capsules that work best and who has the best price?
Thank you for the help
I have a dillon 550 that i load 38s with. What do i have to do special or different to load the shot capsules.
What components should I use? Who makes the capsules that work best and who has the best price?
Thank you for the help
I have loaded 38/357 shot cartridges several ways. Using cardboard wads,
gas checks and Speer capsules. Used different loads and shot sizes. I gave up on them because they have very limited use. In fact I have several hundred capsules loaded with #10 & #12 shot that I never used. You need smallest shot possible to get any pattern and that means poor penetration. If you use the bigger shot the pattern is sparse. I have loaded some with solder straighten and stacked in capsule like pencil lead. Again poor pattern. The 44 & 45 capsules hold much more shot and allow using the larger sizes of shot. I depends on what you want to do with shot loads but I gave up on all of them and would rather just have a cast WC in the wheel.
gas checks and Speer capsules. Used different loads and shot sizes. I gave up on them because they have very limited use. In fact I have several hundred capsules loaded with #10 & #12 shot that I never used. You need smallest shot possible to get any pattern and that means poor penetration. If you use the bigger shot the pattern is sparse. I have loaded some with solder straighten and stacked in capsule like pencil lead. Again poor pattern. The 44 & 45 capsules hold much more shot and allow using the larger sizes of shot. I depends on what you want to do with shot loads but I gave up on all of them and would rather just have a cast WC in the wheel.
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My experience with the Speer capsules is about the same. Takes some experimentation with the crimp to keep the capsules in place. If you don't want to spend the time to do it right, the Speer capsules aren't for you.
I've made them in .38 Special, .44 Special, and .45 Colt. To a maximum of about about ten feet with a fine shot, they are very effective on snakes, etc., but don't shoot them against a hard or concrete surface. Yo may get a few pellets back in your direction.
I've never attempted to glue the Speer capsules, but that sounds like a good idea that would be worth a try. Regardless, the capsules are fairly fragile and ammo loaded with them should be carefully stored.
I have loaded and shot lots of the Speer shot shells in.38 . To make them pattern more effectively I would take the loaded rounds and run the tip of the shot shell over some 400 grit sandpaper to thin it some . This made the capsule open more cleanly at firing which gave better patterns .
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