38 S&W ammo

Register to hide this ad
Is anyone buying 38S&W ammo? If so, where are you finding it?

It's readily available for on-line mail order.

See ammoseek.com

As for LGS's, there are two near me I know of.

One small store has a few boxes, and Bass Pro had about 5 boxes last time I looked about two weeks ago.

All lead round nose.
 
Buffalo Bore makes the only one that I'd consider a solid factory-made defense load. But the bullet weight was dropped to 125 grains to enable increasing velocity, so I have no idea if it'd shoot to the sights on WW II guns sighted for 178-200 grain bullets.

Unless BB warrants it in Webley and Enfield revolvers, I'd limit its use to Colt and S&W guns with swing- out cylinders made during or after WWII.

Before entrusting your life to this caliber, I think you may want to read our current topic on the British WWII .38's in the Other Makes forum. One thread has tests with photos, showing just how anemic this ctg. is. The military load penetrated about twice what the PPU lead bullet did, but neither was any great shakes.
 
Last edited:
Ammoseek.com is your friend for online purchases. Sometimes you can find stuff for under $20 sometimes there's nothing under $25. 38 S&W is manufactured in batches and can be hard to find for good prices sometimes.

For local purchase the phone is your friend. I've seen some at Scheels before but it was $30 for 50.
 
Last edited:
I just looked over at Powder Valley and they are showing stock on 38 S&W Privi Partizan 145 gr RN Lead for $19.24 for a 50 round box, plus shipping of course. But that sounds pretty reasonable for a cartridge that isn't a big seller.
 
Reloading is the better option, if you have that capability. If you have a solid-frame revolver (not a top break) in good condition, it is no trick to produce standard .38 Special ballistics in the .38 S&W.
 
Every time I see a box of LRN Winchester or Remington, I buy it since I have a pile of top breaks and HE's. They are great back yard guns and make very little noise. Good for snakes, squirrels, rats, rabbits, etc. If you come upon something bigger, make sure you have a big rock in one hand. . .either that or be ready to run. My little 32's and 38's are some of my favorite guns just to own and shoot. We don't have a lot of big critters roaming around here in Middle Georgia.
 
.38 S&W projectiles

Not trying to derail the Op but can anyone tell me what the projectile diameter of commercially loaded ammo for the .38 S&W is?

I can't buy any commercial brand ammo in this calibre here in New Zeland and when I tried reloading with .357 158 grain projectiles, the ones I load in .38 Special, the accuracy was awful. At least 1 in 6 shots was a total flyer and another 1 in 6 would tumble due tot he .361 bore of the .38 S&W.

I ended up going to 148 gn HBWC which expand enough to fully seal in the oversize bore.
 
Not trying to derail the Op but can anyone tell me what the projectile diameter of commercially loaded ammo for the .38 S&W is?

I can't buy any commercial brand ammo in this calibre here in New Zeland and when I tried reloading with .357 158 grain projectiles, the ones I load in .38 Special, the accuracy was awful. At least 1 in 6 shots was a total flyer and another 1 in 6 would tumble due tot he .361 bore of the .38 S&W.

I ended up going to 148 gn HBWC which expand enough to fully seal in the oversize bore.

It is usually stated to be 0.360"-0.361" I have pulled bullets from old .38 S&W ammunition which measured 0.357"-0.359", the same as the .38 Special. SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute, an industry trade group which sets dimensional standards for guns and ammunition in the USA) gives a bullet diameter tolerance (lead bullets) for the .38 S&W as 0.355"-0.361" If one is using soft lead bullets of a slightly smaller diameter, the diameter will expand under pressure to fill the bore. I have loaded LOTS of .38 S&W ammunition using .38 Special (0.357-0.358") RN lead bullets, they always seemed to work fine for me. If they don't for you, the HBWCs are a good option - just don't seat them into the case more than about halfway. Were you using jacketed bullets or lead bullets?
 
Last edited:
I don't buy .38 ammo in quantity,when I buy it ,it's usually brought from where I buy guns.I buy most of them from the same gun dealer.
 
It still boggles my mind that the British used this cartridge with a 200gr bullet!

Pre-WWII, it was commercially loaded with a 200gr bullet in this country. It was known as the Super Police (Later, the .38Sp was so loaded). IIRC, MV was advertised at 630fps. Supposedly more effective than the 146RNL on BGs, nothing to stand in front of, in any case.

I once met an old cop/gunman who carried a snub .38 Terrier with a bobbed hammer. When I questioned his choice of caliber, he replied it was "miles ahead of a .25."

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
Just found out this weekend that a young black bear was run over a few miles from my house. Yesterday my wife saw a huge doe standing in the backyard. Maybe I need to rethink my favorite 32 caliber handguns. The deer is no problem, but when a full grown bear walks through my back yard I'm going to run for cover.
 
Just found out this weekend that a young black bear was run over a few miles from my house. Yesterday my wife saw a huge doe standing in the backyard. Maybe I need to rethink my favorite 32 caliber handguns. The deer is no problem, but when a full grown bear walks through my back yard I'm going to run for cover.

I know what you meant but it might not be a good idea to run from a bear. Running usually triggers a chase while backing away slowly is usually the better option.

Which 32 are you carrying? If it's a 32 Federal Magnum it's probably good. I know it won't be easy but if charged try to hit the snout. The bear's brain is right behind the snout.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top