38 special brass shorter than guideline - problem?

[Michael Early]

I am just starting to working with reloading 38 special for revolver. I decided to go thru each piece of brass and measure it to see how it lined up to spec (1.145 - 1.155). I had a couple of dozen pieces that are below minimum after sizing -- like around 1.138 to 1.142 and was wondering what to do with them. Since I am using a revolver I know I don't need to worry about feeding problems but if I load these along with the other "normal ones" then the seating depth is going to be about ~.005 less - am using a Dillon 550B to load - unless I hold these out and seat these separately. It seems to me that the same OAL with different length brass implies different seating depths.

If I were loading my benchrest rifle this would not be good However, since I am loading a handgun I'm not really sure it matters - although I do worry about not enough tension and having a bullet work loose from the brass as I am firing the gun and that would be a problem. To me the range is there to make sure there is enough neck tension to hold the bullet and not so much neck tension that it creates a pressure problem - so it seems like it would be in my best interest to stay in that range.

Are my concerns reasonable? Is there a "safe" minimum length or is the 1.145 pretty much it? And yes I do realize that I could make the necessary seating adjustment based on brass length but that seems to defeat the purpose of having a 550B to quickly load lots of ammo

So I guess what I am asking is 1) throw these away? 2) load in batches based on brass length? or 3) just load them, don't worry about the seating depth variation, and go shoot? Thanks,

 

[Rpg]

Unless you are loading for Bullseye competition, I’d just load ‘em, shoot ‘em and not worry about it.

 

[mikld]

The 38 Special is a low pressure, very forgiving round to reload. I started reloading thr 38 n 1969 and cannot remember measuring the case length more them once or twice in that time. If you are trying for "bench rest accuracy" perhap consistent case lengths would be necessary, but in real life it's not. Some will tell you consistent case lengths are necessary for consistent crimps, perhaps in theory, but not in real life. I would suggest you just reload the cases, seat to the crimp groove or cannalure, disregard OAL and enjoy. After you get comfortable and find a decent load then try the "finer points" (case consistency, bullet consistency, load consistency). I did and while results on the target were very little if any, it was a heck of a lot of fun...

 

[andy52]

They would only be a problem if your are loading full wad cutters that need to be flush crimped, you could still use them but you would have to readjust the dies for the difference in length which would be a pain in the rear.

 

[gwpercle]

Load and shoot them a few times ...they'll get longer .

Seriously ....The drawback to a progressive press is all the cases must be the same length to have a consistent crimp. Consistency is good.

You could trim all the brass to the shortest length you have or just set these aside for loading some experimental rounds.
I have a Lee Hand Press and a single stage bench press for loading these small batches of "try it " loads. Use the other longer ones in the Dillon.

In the 38 special a .005 difference in case length, with normal 38 pressure loads, will not create a dangerous situation.
\
Gary

 

[4barrel]

Chunk the military and Amerc cases and you should be good to go.

 

[mikld]

Chunk the military and Amerc cases and you should be good to go.

I'll take all the militaty brass you wanna toss out!

 

[4barrel]

I'll take all the militaty brass you wanna toss out!

Some military cases in 38 are hard to seat. I think I have some if I didn't sell for scrap.

 

[Nevada Ed]

The short cases should work since...............

the "Can" on a JHP bullet covers an area the height of a penny, .061"
and the lead bullets are around the height of a nickel at .076".

If kept separate, they can be "Dialed in ".

Good shooting.

 

[bigggbbruce]

The short cases should work since...............

If kept separate, they can be "Dialed in ".

Good shooting.

Just move the seating die for a good roll crimp on them.

 

[Nightowl]

I discovered a few years back that Hornaday .357 Magnum brass was shorter than every other brand, due to their bullet shape. I had been given this brass from a non reloader.

I only had a hundred cases or so. I figured they were too much trouble to load for magnum loads, fearing rising pressures to load them to the crimping groove, so pitched them all.

I just don't buy any Hornaday loaded revolver ammunition.

There is lots of normal size brass in the wild, to take the time to fool with cases outside of spec!

 

[Peak53]

I would just load and shoot. It's really only a fractional difference. However, if that bothers you or it causes you to reset dies to get the crimp you need, just pitch 'em. Since .38 special brass is cheap and plentiful I would neither worry nor go to any extra work. A couple of dozen pieces is worth only a dollar or two.

 

[rwsmith]

Since a .38 Long Colt can chamber and fire...

Since a .38 Long Colt can chamber and fire in a .38 Special I wouldn't worry about short cases coming up somewhat short.

And for crimping, varying case length even on a Single Stage press can cause problems.

Some people say they never size pistol brass, but I think this is a good case for trimming them ONCE. Shooting range brass you get all kinds of variations.

 

[boatbum101]

Only time I ever trimmed 38 special cases was for use in my Model 52 with HBWC loads . I'd buy a 1,000 R-P case & trim them all to 1.145" . With mild target loads they'd last forever .

 

[Michael Early]

Thanks for all the quick replies, I really appreciate it.

Since there are only a couple dozen that are the issue I will just keep them aside and plan on loading them as a separate batch with adjustments to the seating and crimping dies -- at some point in the future

 

[mikld]

Some military cases in 38 are hard to seat. I think I have some if I didn't sell for scrap.

Seat primers or seat bullets? I have a bunch of WCC that had primer crimps in them, removed them quickly and easily...

 

[Rule3]

See, that's what happens when you measure them

I read the SAAMI Spec as 1.155-.020=1.135?? As of 2015

Bad Request (sammi specs it works!)

But my eye sight is going.

 

[Engineer1911]

You worry? Load the all brass and shot it. It will grow up to be full length.

 

[Michael Early]

See, that's what happens when you measure them

I read the SAAMI Spec as 1.155-.020=1.135?? As of 2015

Bad Request (sammi specs it works!)

But my eye sight is going.

Thanks for the link .... I am new to reloading pistol brass and I'm now thinking that I picked up recommended trim length as the minimum ...

 

[Rule3]

Thanks for the link .... I am new to reloading pistol brass and I'm now thinking that I picked up recommended trim length as the minimum ...

Yes the trim to length on most any round is .010 from the Max length. The tiny bit more is not going to matter,

Straight wall handgun cases do not really need to be trimmed

Some folks like them all perfectly the same for crimping but if you shoot lead bullets the crimp groove width is much wider than a tiny .01 anyway. Even the cannelure on jacketed bullets.

I have never trimmed or even measured a handgun caliber brass. I do check the COL

EDIT

If you want to be really precise.

Size your brass first, then measure them
handgun brass really doesn't "grow" much at all
Trim them all to the same length one time.

Use all the same head stamp brand.

Is it worth it? If you are a bullseye shooter in competition, then perhaps.
There are many more variables the affect accuracy IMHO.