38 specials in 686+

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I have 2 44 magnums and thinking about getting a 686 3” Plus. I know nothing about it’s ammo requirements. Is there a brand and grain that the 686 likes better in 38 special?
Thanks
 
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Though I bought the 686 to fire magnum loads, I keep a supply of FMJ 158gr. .38spl for recoil sensitive guests.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the responses. I was target shooting and a moose almost ran right into me about 10 ft away. She was panting hard and in a hurry. 50 yards down the trail along came two big wolves sniffing and on her trail.
I froze still and they ignored me. Got to thinking if the wolves charged me how would I fare with my M69 loaded with 5 rounds of Buffalo Bore magnums. Hard to stay on target and only 5 rounds.
Back to the 686 plus with 7 rounds idea. Figure I can stay on target better and 7 rounds would help.
Anyway, that’s my story.
 
For recreational shooting, I use the same loading in all my .38's and .357. I use 2.8 grains of Bullseye powder with a 148 grain bullet. Does not beat up the guns or the shooter. For more serious use I find the heaviest bullet moving fast........
 
Seven rounds? How about a 92fs Beretta 9mm with fifteen rounds and an extra magazine in your pocket. You could handle an entire Wolf pack with ammo to spare :)
 
Wolf & Yotes and other four legged vermin, usually head for the hills when they hear a shot close by.........
and if a pack member is hit, they really put it into high gear.......
if it is legal to shoot them.

Over the years, they might have gotten braver but the fear of a gun shot is still their worst nightmare, unless it is a steel trap.
 
My 3" 686+ really likes 140 gr Hi-Tek TCFP over 3.5 grns of Bullseye or 4.0 grns of 231. Very mild loads. It's probably me, but I haven't found a good load for 158 gr RN projectiles yet.
 
I have 2 44 magnums and thinking about getting a 686 3” Plus. I know nothing about it’s ammo requirements. Is there a brand and grain that the 686 likes better in 38 special?
Thanks

With a new weapon, you just have to test out lead, copper plated or coated bullets, to see what turns up.

My "Mags" do not do well with the 148 wc target loads and the
lead 158 Lwc seem to do a lot better at longer ranges and POA, for me.

A 38 spl. 110 or 125 JHP might work for target work but they are a little more, price wise in most stores.

Good luck on your test and results.
 
Every firearm is a rule unto itself when it comes to preferred ammo. The 686 will happily digest any factory 38 Special, 38 Special +P, or 357 Magnum load. The one thing I would be cautious about is steel cased ammo. Some people have good results with steel cases, others find them very difficult to extract.
 
Clean the gun after every range trip and use a new brass bore brush on the chambers , especially after shooting 38 specials in 357 magnum chambers . Keeps them clean and you don't have to worry about the horrid "Ring of Crud" buildup so many like to whine about .

Same thing goes for 44 specials shot in 44 magnum chambers ... for some reason you don't see as many whiners about the 44 Ring of Crud as you do with the 38 ? 357 .

Keep your chamber brushes separate and only use them on chambers . Wrap with 0000 steel wool if they get worn down ... you want a snug fit to remove the "ring of crud" .

What ammo ? ... Whatever you can GET ! It's all good , finding anything is the problem !
Gary
 
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My 686-1 shot .38 fine.. Only issue is the residue ring being a pain to clean. I would recommend a chamber brush if you plan on shooting a lot of .38 because its a pain to clean those residue rings out. Flex hone really helped, but I switched to only .357 just because of that issue. Do you, but just something to be aware of.
 
I don't think a Flex Hone is necessary unless the chambers are really fouled with lead and it can eventually lead to oversized chambers. I would allow bore solvent to soak the fouling in the chambers, then use a bronze chamber brush to clean. Alternatively, solvent and a Lewis Lead Remover.
 
I shoot nearly nothing but home cast bullets in all of my revolvers. My .357's handle my full charge wadcutters (3.5 grs. of Bullseye or equivalent behind an H&G #50 or #251 wadcutters). I ALWAYS run a nylon chamber brush through the cylinder chambers while the gun is still warm. It removes the "crud ring" without issue.

FWIW
Dale53
 
A little MOTHERS Mag & Aluminum on a Q-tip works wonders after a brass brush and some solvent...

Or, maybe even some of Hickok45's favorite, Ballistol?

Cheers!

P.S. Also does wonders on the face of the cylinder as well...
 
I use brass bore brushes for lead & copper barrel fowling but.........

switch to a Nylon brush for my cylinder cleaning with good old #9 or a
heavy duty cleaner if I left the gun over night, for some odd reason.

I don't mind several passes to get a clean cylinder or barrel..........
I have lots of time and patches to use on my weapons to get them in
spotless condition, for the next outtings.
 

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