38 spl oal

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Just started loading 38 spl. I have some 158gr swc from black and blue and using 3.6 gr of HP-38. My question is what oal is acceptable? My reloading books say Lee 1.475 (just says 158gr lead bullet and Lyman 1.445 for a 158gr swc. When I seat and crimp the bullet hitting the crimp groove just right I get get 1.470 and the round looks good. If I seat to the 1.445 depth I would be crimping above the crimp groove. What would the effects be of the longer round?
Round on the right at 1.470 crimped in the crimp groove one on left at 1.445.
 
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what arjay said. i use the crimp cannelure ,i find if i dont use the cannelure my ctgs wont feed reliably ,but i use a roll crimp.. ymmv
 
Just started loading 38 spl
As arjay indicates, you need a little loading 101:

1. for revolver bullets, crimp in the crimping groove.
2. when you change bullets, the manual data changes also.
3. You are guessing that the manual data applies to your bullet, but you need a chronograph to see what you are actually getting. It may change speed appreciably.
4. If you are going to guess that some manual data applies to different components, be aware that there is some hazard to doing that, especially near max or min loads.

In your specific case, 3.6gr of HP38 is a wimp load with 158gr lead, and seating it longer is going to make it even less pressure and speed. Unless you are trying to load light, I'd tend to load more towards 4gr for a normal .38 load.
 
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I'm going to sound a bit hyper cautious here but when you start going "off the charts" you need to be aware of all the risk factors. As reloaders I sometimes think we are a bit too concerned about pressures and ignore other factors that can effect safety.

From your picture I'm led to believe that you are working with powder coated bullets, which are definitely "off the chart" in every reloading manual I am aware of. My concern is the difference in the amount of friction developed when compared to lead or jacketed ammunition. Since not knowing this I would suggest that you make sure that you chronograph the very first round you fire using your new bullet. Because if your load produces velocity below what you expect it's a possible indicator of a higher level of friction being produced. With that knowledge you can then compare your result to that produced for cast, hard cast, or jacketed bullets in that weight. I would also suggest that you make sure to do a report on your results using powder coated bullets for all of our benefit.

The problem with higher friction bullets is twofold. One is the risk of a Squib with a starting load is increased. The second is that with some powders the higher level of friction may produce unwanted spikes in pressure.

So, how does this apply to you? First, if the friction generated is similar to a jacketed bullet your 3.6 grain load of HP-38 may be too light and you might leave a squib in the barrel. If you use the longer loading length the increased case volume will reduce the initial rate of pressure rise and thus may impeded ignition, further increasing the chance of a Squib. So, you really need to pay attention to the level of recoil and report volume produced and if you think there is the slightest risk of a squib check the barrel after each shot fired. BTW, I carry a Streamlight Stylus flashlight specifically because it's very easy to poke the light in the forcing cone and see if the light is shining out of the end of the barrel by pointing at the bench or piece of paper.

As for your overall length concerns, in a 38 special I don't see any real risk in loading 1/32 inch short. There is enough excess case volume with most powders in the 38 special than going a bit shorter will have an almost unmeasurable effect on pressure. As for going longer, as long as you are at the minimum recommended charge or higher for your bullet type I don't think there is much risk of a squib. However, I would personally bump the powder charge a touch if using a starting charge and loading long just to reduce the chance of a squib.
 
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158gr Lswc standard OAL is +/- 1.48 " on most bullets.......
that puts the end of the crimped brass into the cannelure area.

If your bullets do not have a "Can." use what the company or data states.................
If it does have one, you now know what to do.
If a quality company, NO bullet with a "Can" should be too long to fit correctly in a revolver in modern guns, since they ironed out the problems over the years.
Good shooting.
 
As OKFC05 stated "You need a little loading 101:" You don't understand what the C.O.L. shown in the manuals really means. It is not a specification!

Regardless of what manual, what bullet, or what cartridge is involved the bullet was seated to the cannellure! All the C.O.L. figure means is "This bullet, seated to the cannellure, resulted in a C.O.L. of X.xxx" ". It does not mean that this weight of bullet should be seated to that C.O.L.! In reality C.O.L. is really a bit of useless information that means nothing.

Naturally this applies only to bullets with cannellures. For un-cannellured bullets such as those for auto-pistol cartridges, then the listed C.O.L. is a specification, and the bullet should not be seated to a length shorter than shown.
 
Not only an answer but a smack down as well?? I have been reloading semi auto ammo for 40 years and thought I would give loading a revolver round a try. Seems a simple question helped some of you guys unload a little, but hey thanks for the advice.
 
I'd pick out.....

Not only an answer but a smack down as well?? I have been reloading semi auto ammo for 40 years and thought I would give loading a revolver round a try. Seems a simple question helped some of you guys unload a little, but hey thanks for the advice.

I'd pick out the good info and throw away the attitude stuff. It's uncalled for. .38 O.A.L. is not NEARLY as critical as most semi-auto cartridges. Too long is when the cylinder can't rotate and if the shank (straight side) of the bullet is not below the rim it's not too short. The deeper the bullet is seated, the higher the pressure. Too deep and the pressure can get dangerously high. If it has a crimp groove, use it.
 
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Thank you rwsmith I figured as much but was just checking to see if I was on the right track, Thanks again
 
Like said above, just crimp into the manufacturers supplied crimp groove. That will provide the correct COAL for THAT bullet. The COAL listed in your manual means nothing for you unless you used all the same exact components they used and trim the brass to their specs.
 

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