.380 acp reloading

tomahawk223

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does anyone reload for .380acp, I'm set up for all my calibers I shoot so there is no cost for equipment. how successful are you and any issues that might be encountered. all I will need to buy are the dies. thanks
 
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I have two 380s that I load for and I have to load both of them at a maximum charge in order for the actions to cycle properly.
 
In the early 80's I had a nice German PPk in 380. If you bought 10 boxes of bullets you got 10% off. I bought 5 boxes of Speer 95gr JSP 9mm's with my next batch of bullets. I bought a set of Hornady High Speed Steel dies. I had primers. But couldn't find enough once fired brass to make a worthwhile batch! I still have all those items and have accumulated six or seven hundred rounds of brass in the last 40 years. The one thing I haven't come up with is the willpower to actually spend the effort to run them through the Dillon 550!

The price on the bullets is $5.89 (minus 10%). The amount of WW231 would have been less than a dollar, primers were 89 cents/100 or $6.99/1000. the brass was from the range: Zero dollars. So, I wasn't motivated at 12 to 13 cents a round in 1982, and I'm still not motivated in 2025! I have been motivated to load 32 ACP about 5 times in the last 40 years! I didn't know 380 could be so non-inspirational!

Ivan
 
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Yes, I reload 380 using 231 powder and Berrys 100 gn. Round Shoulder bullets. I'm loading for European handguns which seem to be designed for stiffer ammo than Americans handguns. As was mentioned previously, I have to load near max to get reliable function from the handguns. I still use an old unconverted Dillon 450, so when I change calibers tend to load 400-500 rds at a time.
 
I use the Berry's 100 gr HB, man those little suckers are slippery! Titegroup, Bullseye and Acc#2. Someday I may try cast bullets, just need a mold.
 
I use the Lee 95 gr mold and 3.2 gr of AA2. Function is fine and accuracy @ 15 yards is a par with factory ammo. Shooting a Bersa so a larger gun, but the price was right.
 
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I cast and reload for several 380 pistols, many of which have never fired a factory round, and only recall having a few minor issues. My best use a 102gn -105gn bullet and powders from AA#2 and faster.
 
I use W231/HP38 and the very first load I tried was far more accurate than WWB so I just stopped right there. I use commercially cast 95 grn. lead RN bullets for cheap practice ammo. I could cast my own but never have. I don't shoot a lot of it.

For range brass that I did not fire in my guns I do run them through a Lee Bulge Buster. There appears to be a huge variation in .380 chambers. The Bulge Buster gives you a consistent starting point. Not totally necessary but helpful sometimes.
 
I started reloading .380 ACP in 1964 for a Beretta 1934. My first efforts were with a Lyman 310 tool. I was casting 95 grain RN bullets with free linotype metal. I quickly tired of the 310 tool and switched to a Lyman turret press, which I still have. I sold my old steel dies and switched to a set of Lee carbide dies around 1995 and still use those. I also crimp with the Lee FCD die. Reloading for .380 is similar to reloading for other straight wall auto cartridges like .45 ACP. The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth, so taper crimping is required, not roll crimping. There's lots of reloading data in all the major manuals. I've had good results with several fast burning powders including Bullseye, HP-38, and currently VV N320. I've used cast, plated, and FMJ bullets with the Hornady 100 grain FMJ being my favorite. I like its blunt round nose design and got a good deal on a 3500 round box before COVID. Loading with heavier bullets is trickier because there's not much data and limited powder space in a deep seated heavy bullet.

It's interesting that you asked this question today, since I was at the range this morning and fired a box of .380 reloads through my SIG P232 with excellent results. The gun is on my hip right now. I mainly shoot the SIG and a Walther PPK in .380. I know the 9 mm is a "better" defense cartridge, but I really like reloading the .380 and shooting it. Then again, I also reload cartridges from .25 ACP to .454 Casull.
 
Finding powder and primers are top concern. I started reloading in the late 80’s and components were plentiful, now not so much. The only ammo I would consider reloading is 38sp/357 mag wadcutters which I haven’t seen, I’m not even sure if they’re being made. To me it’s just easier to mail order my ammo.
 
I have, and I have the dies which I used in my single stage press. I didn't want to set up the Dillon for the few hundred I would load of the .380.. I used 231, and got good results. Used formula straight out of a reloading manual. Accuracy with cast 98 Gr was good enough for practice at 10-15 yards.
 
Loaded 380 for a long time. Just be careful that the brass is centered on the die or you will crush or nick the cases, :)
 
I don’t shoot 380s much but do reload rounds whenever I need them. Powders I’ve used include BE, 231, and Zip and bullets have been Xtreme plated (100 gr) and, more recently, RMR FMJ (95 gr). Just stick with a good reloading manual and you shouldn’t have a problem.
 
If you can reload .38 or 9mm, .380 should be no problem. Nothing special to look out for.

I use Lee 102 gr. round nose bullets and 231. Bullseye is also a good option if you can find it. SPP availability is now pretty good.

I bought 1000 once fired brass and that was also a good deal. I won't buy factory ammo because it's too expensive.

My std target for .380 is 7 yards and my home brew works well.
 
...any issues that might be encountered.

Brass thickness tends to be on the thinner side in the 380ACP.

Bullet setting depths also tend to be less than in similar sized cartridges like the 9x19.

These can reduce the bullet-case tension needed to hold the bullet properly in place when feeding.

Using an expander plug with a diameter of .351"-.352" will help insure good bullet-case tension & offset the affects of the aforementioned.

Minimizing case flaring/bell-mouthing, along with a firm taper crimp, are also beneficial in this area.

.

COAL: .970"
CCI-500
-Use at your own risk-
.


.
 
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I hand load for my two 380 ACP pistols, a Glock 42 and a Beretta 84BB. I cast my own 102 grain round nose bullets from a LEE mold. I size them to .356". I use 2.8 grains of HP-38/W231 powder, which is about 10% below max, depending where you get your data. I give them a taper crimp.

Function is 100% in both pistols, although the Beretta leads the bore relatively quickly. No idea why.
 

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