3913 Ambi-Safety to Single Safety Possible?
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JohnHL
Member
Yes!
John
John
Attachments
3913NLs have a single sided safety.
Some people have had success using 2nd Gen single side safety levers, others report that it didn't work.
OTOH, I've used a 908 single sided safety on a couple of different 3rd Gens with no issues. I suspect that a 915, 910, or 908 safety will also work.
The trick is finding them. I've found several on Ebay, however I had to buy entire slide assemblies to get them.
OTOH, I've used a 908 single sided safety on a couple of different 3rd Gens with no issues. I suspect that a 915, 910, or 908 safety will also work.
The trick is finding them. I've found several on Ebay, however I had to buy entire slide assemblies to get them.
Good info here:
3913 single side safety option
3913 single side safety option
squidsix
Member
I used the 908 safety on one of mine. Worked perfectly
lhump1961
US Veteran
lhump1961
US Veteran
Green Frog
Member
In part because my late father was left handed, I got in the habit of putting ambi safeties on all our automatics. Right now there is a Gen 2 ambi safety on his old 39-2, a Gen 3 on a Gen 2 slide on my 639 Franken-Smith, another Gen 2 on the 915 slide for my other 639 slide. This slide first came with a single side safety I swapped to Guzzitaco. Yep, they can be swapped around pretty much at will. You may have trouble using a Gen 1 safety on the later models, but other than that... not a problem! I think I still have a single side safety from a 915 if you'd like to work up some sort of exchange.
Froggie
Froggie
Yes, presuming the assembly is available. Like with other assemblies from the Parts-is-Parts era, sometimes it might require trying more than 1 assembly to find one that worked in any particular slide/frame combination (too loose isn't good, for example).
However, changing the manual safety assembly in a 3rd gen slide typically requires fitting a new sear release lever in the frame. This is to keep the decocking 'timing' within the factory spec, meaning the hammer not falling too soon, or too late, or not at all. Having the decocking timing be within the normal factory spec is a safety concern.
Fitting is done by checking the point of hammer fall, adjusted by filing on the bottom of the sear release lever leg (NOT the top), while maintaining the original factory angle of the bottom leg cut.
In earlier classes they taught armorers how to manipulate the lever and eye-ball the point of hammer fall. In subsequent classes they devised a way to use 3 different numbered metal drill bits - using the non-cutting shank end of the bits - as Go/No-Go gauges. They were placed in the bottom/rear corner of the machined recess under the L/S lever, as it was manipulated.
Fitting (filing) a replacement sear release lever requires a knowledge of disassembling the frame (at least to the point of removing the 2 levers on the right side of the hammers). Then, the tedious part can become making a file stroke, or 3, and then reassembling the frame, and installing the slide and inserting an EMPTY magazine, to check the decocking timing. It's really annoying and frustrating to get close to having filed the lever's foot almost enough ... and then yield to the temptation of making that 'one more' file stroke ... and then discover you filed off too much, and have to start over with another sear release lever.
However, changing the manual safety assembly in a 3rd gen slide typically requires fitting a new sear release lever in the frame. This is to keep the decocking 'timing' within the factory spec, meaning the hammer not falling too soon, or too late, or not at all. Having the decocking timing be within the normal factory spec is a safety concern.
Fitting is done by checking the point of hammer fall, adjusted by filing on the bottom of the sear release lever leg (NOT the top), while maintaining the original factory angle of the bottom leg cut.
In earlier classes they taught armorers how to manipulate the lever and eye-ball the point of hammer fall. In subsequent classes they devised a way to use 3 different numbered metal drill bits - using the non-cutting shank end of the bits - as Go/No-Go gauges. They were placed in the bottom/rear corner of the machined recess under the L/S lever, as it was manipulated.
Fitting (filing) a replacement sear release lever requires a knowledge of disassembling the frame (at least to the point of removing the 2 levers on the right side of the hammers). Then, the tedious part can become making a file stroke, or 3, and then reassembling the frame, and installing the slide and inserting an EMPTY magazine, to check the decocking timing. It's really annoying and frustrating to get close to having filed the lever's foot almost enough ... and then yield to the temptation of making that 'one more' file stroke ... and then discover you filed off too much, and have to start over with another sear release lever.
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