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/...Obviously I'd like to have a Model 41. Who wouldn't? But I just can't justify a grand for a rimfire range toy. The models I was comparing are the Smith & Wesson SW22 VICTORY Model: 10201, Browning Buck Mark Contour Model: 051508490, Ruger MARK IV COMPETITION Model: 40112.
However, I've run across some S&W models I didn't know about. The 422, 622, and 2206. I even saw one guy that said the 2206 was as good as the Model 41, and he had both.
I see some of these guns in very nice condition actually selling on GB in the $300-$400 range.
So what are your opinions on these?
I'll second 6string's comments about looking at what bullseye shooters are using.
There have been three long standing pistols used there - The S&W Model 41, the High Standard Victor, and the Ruger MK I, II, and III target models. I'm leaving out the Mk IV, since it's still too new to tell, and my observation has been that the MK I and MK II are more popular than the MK III given the additional "features" of the Mk III.
The S&W Model 41 and High Standard Victor were the preferred choices for shooters with the resources to buy one, with the High Standard costing a bit more than the Model 41, and shooting just slightly better.
Choosing between the two mostly came down to personal preference.
The High Standard Victor doesn't have feed ramps so feeding depends entirely on the magazine lips (and on the final texas built Victors on the fit of the magazine to the feed ramp). If you have one of the earlier Victors and your are using quality magazines, feeding is both very reliable and tunable to different length ammunition.
With a Model 41 feeding is also usually very reliable, but diagnosing a feed issue is much more involved if you have an issue.
Both pistols are more accurate than the person shooting them. Both have excellent triggers, although I feel the trigger on the High Standard Victor is slightly better (and very easy to adjust).
For shooters who lacked the cash for a S&W Model 41 or High Standard Victor, the Ruger was by far the most common pistol of choice.
The MK I was popular in both its 6 7/8" target form (we'll call it the T678) and in it's 5 1/2" target form (a T512).
When considering both the Mk I and Mk II, the T512 format has been by far the most popular target model. Personally I preferred the T678's tapered heavy barrel to the T512's shorter bull barrel. The weight is the same, but for me the balance is better on the T678.
Below is my MK I T678 (top) and my MK II T512 (bottom), with my Model 17-4 in between.
Ruger also came out with a Mk II Government Model in 1986 using a 6 7/8" bull barrel (the MK678G). They had better than average triggers and came with test target (10 rounds at 25 yards inside or cutting the edge of a 1.25" bullseye at 25 yards using CCI green tag). I passed on one as it felt very muzzle heavy. I now wished I'd have bought it as they are uncommon and are worth more than the Mk II T512
The slab sided 6 7/8" barrels Ruger has produced recently have similar balance to the old T678 so that's something to consider as well.
The main difference between the Mk I and MK II is that the Mk II had an automatic bolt hold open device and a bolt release lever. The Mk I won't stay open after the last round, and you pull the bolt back and activate the safety to lock the bolt open. (If you get into one of the early model Mk I Targets and the early standards, you'll find 9 round magazines with the magazine button reversed, but new magazines work just fine, just reverse the button.)
The Mk III moved the magazine release from the heel of the grip to a more normal location behind the trigger guard (a plus, unless you had a lot of the older magazines), added a loaded trigger indicator (not really a win or loss), and a magazine safety which is a negative in most people's opinions. Many shooters remove for the same trigger pull related reasons magazine safeties always get removed)
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In short since you are a self disclosed S&W fan boy, I'd recommend you consider saving up and getting an S&W Model 41. By once and you'll save money over buying something you don't like and eventually getting something you do.
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Alternatively, consider shopping around and getting a High Standard Victor. You'll find them anywhere from $500 to $800 in excellent condition and in very good condition you'll see them down around $375. They were not designed for high velocity ammo and a long steady diet of high velocity ammo can result in a frame crack just behind the cut for the magazine release on the right side of the pistol. So check there for a crack. Also check to ensure the chamber mouth isn't damaged from dry firing, and check t ensure it has a factory magazine rather than a cheaper after market Triple K magazine. The lips are not hardened on them and they won't stay in tune.
Earlier Victors generally bring more money than the later Victors because there is a belief that there was a long slow decline in the exterior polish. I have not found that to be the case, and mechanically they all shoot really well.
The East Hartford CT marked "ML" prefix guns are usually bargains as collectors feel that quality fell off at that point. That's not the case, it's just a myth started by Tom Dance in his book, but it does help keep prices down on them.
Below (top) is an E Hartford marked Victor (catalog number 9211) made around July 1977. Below it is an early Hamden marked Victor made around July 1971 (catalog number 9217). There was a change from a steel vented rib to a solid aluminum rib and the magazine release changed from color case hardened to gold plated, but the overall quality of the fit and finish is the same:
Any decrease in quality that occured happened around 1983 during production of the "SH" prefix pistols. These also had a take down screw rather than the push button.
If your interested this worksheet put together by LD Bennet over on the rimfirecentral forum covers all the variations.
http://www.histandard.info/PDF2017/VICTOR-VARIATIONS.pdf
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If you really want to stay in the <$400 range, I'd consider getting a Ruger Mk I or MK II target before I considered anything else. They shoot very well out of the box, and there is a ton of 3rd party aftermarket parts support for them. You can add a drop in Volquartzen accurizing kit with hammer, sear, trigger and springs for $121 and have a very nice trigger.
, that's what we do in discussion forums. I just don't think any guns from this series are as wholly enjoyable as the 422/622/2206 series.
