.45 auto rim crimp

[Eddie Southgate]

I use a roll crimp with the 200 gr LSW Remington bullet I used to buy . You can't get it anymore as a component so I bought the Lyman Elmer Keith AR design mold works the same if not better as best I can tell.

 

[alwslate]

When I have loaded the .45 AR with light weight SWC cast bullets I just seat them deep enough to apply a light roll crimp over the leading edge.

 

[gwpercle]

When I started loading 45 AR and 45 ACP for revolvers with cast lead SWC bullets that had crimp grooves ... my Lyman All-American 45 ACP die set only contained a Taper Crimp Die ... but a letter to Lyman resulted in a 45 AR Roll Crimp die (for just a few dollars) and now I was set up to go Roll or Taper Crimp as needed !
I'm sure roll crimp dies are still available ... call the maker of your dies ...
Nothing beats going both ways !
Gary

 

[Eddie Southgate]

When I started loading 45 AR and 45 ACP for revolvers with cast lead SWC bullets that had crimp grooves ... my Lyman All-American 45 ACP die set only contained a Taper Crimp Die ... but a letter to Lyman resulted in a 45 AR Roll Crimp die (for just a few dollars) and now I was set up to go Roll or Taper Crimp as needed !
I'm sure roll crimp dies are still available ... call the maker of your dies ...
Nothing beats going both ways !
Gary

My black box set of All American .45 ACP dies will also roll crimp.

 

[LostintheOzone]

Check the last round in the cylinder, after firing the others. Has the COL gotten longer? If more then .005", a roll crimp is needed into the crimp groove.

The lswc around 240 grs are more accurate. Longer bearing surface, straighter alignment entering the forcing cone.

My 625 causes OAL to increase. That sometimes locks the cylinder. Problem was solved using a roll crimp with bullets that have a crimp grove.

I use a taper crimp (LFC die) for all of my autos. No need to as bullet creep just isn't a thing with a auto.

Judging from the responses I can see not many here load 45 ACP for a revolver.

 

[StrawHat]

If your bullets are pulling from previous recoil, I would bet there is insufficient neck tension.

Kevin

 

[LostintheOzone]

If your bullets are pulling from previous recoil, I would bet there is insufficient neck tension.

Kevin

Roger that. I'm using range brass. Normal taper crimp using LFC die tells me that neck tension is all over the board. Some rounds get re-sized more than others. I'm thinking the ones that don't take some resistance in the press aren't getting enough neck tension. That's never been a problem shooting those in my 1911 though. The brass is probably getting to the end of it's working life.

So do I cull those and save them for my 1911 or just roll crimp my 625 ammo? I'll use up the bullets I have and probably sell the 625. It's pretty needy in terms of neck tension and reloads.

Large caliber revolver ammo typically needs to be roll crimped for that reason.

 

[reddog81]

I’ve always used a taper crimp. I’ve shot all kinds of bullets out of my 1917, 1937, 1955, and model 25 without any issues. Unless you’re shooting some kind of magnum pressure high velocity loads you shouldn’t see any difference unless something is wrong with your loading practices.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Let's call it bullet-case tension instead of neck tension

I'm thinking the ones that don't take some resistance in the press aren't getting enough neck tension. That's never been a problem shooting those in my 1911 though.
I'll use up the bullets I have and probably sell the 625. It's pretty needy in terms of neck tension and reloads.

As already mentioned there are several possible reasons for the jump crimp:

- poor bullet-case tension due to case under-sizing (diameter too large) by the depriming/sizing die,

- expander/bell-mouthing die plug diameter too large

- inconsistent bullet diameter/sizing along bearing surface,

- thinner than nominal brass (Remington historically)

- tired brass

The lighter the revolver & the hotter the load the more demanding the need for good bullet-case tension. Standard pressure 45ACP in a 625 shouldn't be demanding.

A tamper crimp can only do so much to overcome the lack of good bullet-case tension.

Some expander plugs can be polished down in diameter to give the extra needed tension

Lack of good bullet-case tension in a semi-auto pistol (1911) results in bullet set-back, which is worse than jump crimp in a revolver, as it results in the opposite affect, higher pressures.

.

 

[Rodfac]

Taper crimp for me as well. With stout loads in a 7-1/2" Colt SAA fitted with a .45 ACP/Auto-Rim cylinder as well as a Smith 1955 Target, taper crimping has resulted in no bullets jumping the crimp and tying up the gun. Too, auto-rim brass is pretty thick...I'd think it would be tough to get a decent roll crimp. Regards, Rod