45acp reloading

cballman

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I have a few questions about this round. I have reloaded 38s for years with no problems. I now have two pistols that use the 45acp round. When you reload do you have to measure every casing? What else should I do to have workable rounds?

I would like to thank everyone that has given me info on anything in the past and future.

Charlie
 
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I rarely measure measure any pistol brass. I will do random chamber checks for auto brass and usually visually inspect range brass i pick up out of the dirt. For important reloads, like hunting, i will very closely inspect each round. For regular range fodder, clean and looks about right (after setting up the dies properly) is close enough. A lee factory crimp die is less sensitive to overall length and you should only give 45 a "kiss" from the crimp die anyway.

I met a guy at the range once that was loading 1k 9mm for his son, single stage, he was trimming each case! I've made a bajillion 9mm reloads from scrounged brass and almost never mic a sized case.
 
Semi auto cases like the .45 acp don't need to be trimmed as they generally get shorter with use, not longer. The .45 acp is an easy caliber to reload with the only difficulty being that sometimes you need to adjust the OAL differently for different bullet makes and styles to fit your particular gun. Consider OAL information in the manuals to be a general guide and not gospel.

If you use range pick ups you may fine an occasional NT case that was primed with a small pistol primer and these need to be sorted out though they can be reloaded with a small pistol primer if you ever get enough of them to make it worthwhile.
 
It's also a very good idea to use your removed barrel as a gage, and make sure that every loaded round drops freely into the chamber. You will catch the occasional deformed bullet or lead sliver that prevents chambering and sure to cause a jam.
 
Start your reloading with regular 230gr RN bullets. Lead or FMJ whatever you like.
Much easier to make a round that will feed reliably than trying to mess with OAL for SWC bullets.

I have never measured a empty 45 Auto case. Only measure the OAL when loaded.

A lot depends on what gun(s) you are loading for. Some will feed anything, others like some 1911's are picky with anything other than RN or "ball" ammo.
 
Since you already load .38's you will find that the .45 is another very easy to load round. The big difference is that the .45 head spaces on the case mouth so you do not want to do a roll crimp. Your dies should apply a taper crimp leaving the edges of the case mouth exposed for head spacing. A loaded .45 should measure from .469-.473" around the case. A simple way to check your reloads is to remove your barrel and use it as a case gauge. If they drop in easily and stop in the same position as a factory round your doing it right. Be sure to select the correct OAL for the bullet you are using as well. I have found a OAL of 1.250" works well with 230fmj or lead bullets.
As far as trimming I have never trimmed a .38, 9MM or .45acp case.
I have trimmed .357, .45 Colt and most rifle rounds.

Just be sure to read your manual and follow recommended loading data.
The .45 is the easiest round to reload. JMHO
Bruce
 
Loading 45 is no problem. I find the bigger bullet is easier to pick up and insert. Instead of using my barrel to check brass, I trust Wilson case gages. They're available on-line from the usual suspects for about $15.
 
I have loaded a gazillion .45 ACP rds. and have never once measured or trimmed a case. Tumble them up to get them nice and clean, do a quick visual inspection for cracks and have at it without worry.


WG840
 
Loading 45 is no problem. I find the bigger bullet is easier to pick up and insert. Instead of using my barrel to check brass, I trust Wilson case gages. They're available on-line from the usual suspects for about $15.

Wilson gauges are great tools. I have several but they will not tell you if you loaded round will fit in a odd ball barrel. They measure the case not the loaded round.

I have a couple of CZ and Browning 9mm that will not take certain lead RN bullets unless the are seated way shorter than "normal"
 
When I first started loading .45 ACP I was using a home cast Lyman SWC. It gave me fits until I figured out the proper OAL. As it's been stated above, use your barrel to check and see if the loaded round fits. In my case I had to go to an OAL of 1.18 for reliable function with that bullet.
 
Ok I appreciate all the replys to the first questions. Now I have another one. My son wento out shooting with his friend. He brought back some brass to reload. He brought back back some winchester and federal brass. Does the brass both have large pistol primers or small pistol primers? How can I tell without to much problem? Is there a tool or something easy to tell? I know so many questions so little time. I am just trying to do this right and not screw up to much.

Thanks again
 
A visual inspection should be enough. The only cases I know of that will have small primer pockets are the Winchester NT variety. You can lay a .45 ACP next to a .38 Special to see the difference.

One other point, OAL will vary by bullet brand. All 230 gr FMJ bullets do not share the same profile therefore you should re-adjust the seating die for each run. I also try to keep cases from each lot together. In theory that will help you to have all cases with the same number of reloads together so you can judge life expectancy. Thats just me (some call it anal) but I am retired and have nothing else to do. :D

I hope that helps,

Frank
 
Well, I love to reload for the 45ACP. I cast for it too. It is one of the simplest loads to reload.

I am not retired so sorting brass ain't gonna happen. :) Maybe after I have nothing better to do! ;)

At any rate, here are some pictures of 45ACP stuff.

Hope this helps.


Box of free brass that caused me to.......................
45ACPcases.jpg



buy this!

G2145ACPcases1.jpg


Then there is this:
100_2685.jpg


And this:
HG682.jpg


And we cannot forget these:
5grUnique.jpg


Or, how about this line up:
45bullets.jpg


Or these bad boys!
100_3617.jpg


Another family member: 240gr 45AR @ 1100fps!
45AR_1.jpg


Last but not least:
PT1911-3.jpg


I guess what I am trying to say is this: The 45ACP has an awesome opportunity for the reloader & handloader. It is easy to assemble loads that "push the envelope" and those that can barely escape it. From mild to wild.

If you are loading for a semi-auto, use your barrel as a case gage. Just make sure you remove it from the handgun first.

:D

Enjoy and be safe!
 
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I used to use a Wilson case gauge to check loaded rounds before matches. If I found a round out of spec, I used a Lee Factory Crimp Die to correct the problem. Now, I just use my Lee Classic Turret press with the FCD and everything works perfectly.
 
Ok I appreciate all the replys to the first questions. Now I have another one. My son wento out shooting with his friend. He brought back some brass to reload. He brought back back some winchester and federal brass. Does the brass both have large pistol primers or small pistol primers? How can I tell without to much problem? Is there a tool or something easy to tell? I know so many questions so little time. I am just trying to do this right and not screw up to much.

Thanks again

I have been finding both Federal and Speer cases with small pistol primers.

They have not been been marked NT as some of the cases have previously been marked.



Visual inpection is the best and fastest way to tell.

Once you compare them side by side with the "normal" .45 ACP cases with the large primer pocket it becomes a "No brainer"

I have also picked up some recent "Blazer Brass" cases that seem to have an off size primer pocket. The "normal" large primers won't go in and the small primers are a loose fit. I am going to try and swage the primer pockets to see if I can get the large primers to fit.


FOR Smith Crazy

Retirement is everything it is cracked up to be. :-)
 
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Wilson gauges are great tools. I have several but they will not tell you if you loaded round will fit in a odd ball barrel. They measure the case not the loaded round.

I have a couple of CZ and Browning 9mm that will not take certain lead RN bullets unless the are seated way shorter than "normal"

In addition to using the Wilson to check sizing prior to charging, I use the gage to measure the completed round for proper crimp upon setup and once each 50 rounds or so thereafter (along with my other production quality checks like powder weight and OAL). If there's not enough taper, it won't seat in the gage. Am I correct in using it for this?
Obviously, it won't tell you if you have too much crimp or the OAL. And if you have an oddball barrel you are making truly custom ammo which I may need to learn in the "advanced course"! :)
 
I am using the Dillion cartridge checking die, A cartridge that is too long will protrude out the bottom of the die and an a cartridge that fits in the die will load and fire in all my .45 ACP handguns
 
IMO for the .45 Auto or any semi-auto for that matter I see no reason to buy a case gauge. Your barrel is the perfect case gauge. You will quickly determine if your ammo is made correctly by dropping it into the barrel... (remove the barrel from the pistol)
 
Well, I love to reload for the 45ACP. I cast for it too. It is one of the simplest loads to reload.

I am not retired so sorting brass ain't gonna happen. :) Maybe after I have nothing better to do! ;)

At any rate, here are some pictures of 45ACP stuff.

Hope this helps.


Box of free brass that caused me to.......................
45ACPcases.jpg



buy this!

G2145ACPcases1.jpg

Why can't I ever find anyone who wants to give away free brass in the calibers I load????? I have to go and vulture it up at the public range and fight off the old retired doods with their 5 gallon buckets and articulated grasper thingies!

I would buy a .45 Glock too!
 
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