500 S&W Locked

[RayV]

Yesterday I shot my brothers 500. I suspect the load was hot I Idid not load the round. I just put it one round in the cylinder and fired. The cylinder locked. Can't cock it, can't open the cylinder. How do we get it open or rotate the cylinder?

Any Ideas?

Ray

 

[mtb1bkr]

Could be that the ejector rod has loosened up a bit and pushed the ejector star to the rear where it's lodged against the recoil shield behind the cylinder. If that's the case, tighten the ejector rod by turning counter clock wise until finger tight. If it's loose this will be easy to turn. If that's not it, then look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield and see if the brass is sticking out of the rear of the cylinder. If it is, then there could be something like a lot of powder fouling under the extractor star pushing the star to the rear. If this is the case you are going to have to wiggle it back and forth enough to get the star seated so it will allow you to index the extractor.

Bill

 

[RayV]

Could be that the ejector rod has loosened up a bit and pushed the ejector star to the rear where it's lodged against the recoil shield behind the cylinder. If that's the case, tighten the ejector rod by turning counter clock wise until finger tight. If it's loose this will be easy to turn. If that's not it, then look between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield and see if the brass is sticking out of the rear of the cylinder. If it is, then there could be something like a lot of powder fouling under the extractor star pushing the star to the rear. If this is the case you are going to have to wiggle it back and forth enough to get the star seated so it will allow you to index the extractor.

Bill

Thanks Bill,
I see the brass sticking out as described but do not see the star sticking out.

Ray

 

[mtb1bkr]

Thanks Bill,
I see the brass sticking out as described but do not see the star sticking out.

Ray

Can you move the brass back in with something strong like a wood skewer or maybe even a credit card? Can you move the extractor in and out by hand by pushing and pulling on it from under the barrel? If the brass is sticking out, then either the extractor star has pushed it out or it could be fouled in the chamber. Try moving the extractor in and out first and then try pushing the brass back into the cylinder. It may take some wiggling to get it back in and allow the cylinder to rotate. One last thought, the firing pin is not stuck in the primer is it? If it was a "hot" round then the primer could have been pierced and now it's stuck on the firing pin.

Bill

Bill

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Look at the cylinder air gap, make sure there is a gap. If not the bullet is still partly in the barrel. Then look at the rear of the cylinder, where the firing pin comes out, is the firing pin stuck in the case?
Maybe you had a primer blow out and the firing pin is fused to the case.
The extractor rod is different on the x frames (so is the lock up), so I doubt that is the problem.

Make sure both ends of the cylinder has an air gap. Then the cylinder will swing out.

 

[mtb1bkr]

500 Mag,
I can't get into specifics about the differences between the 500 extractor and others, but the extractor rod on my 500 came loose several times and locked up the gun. In fact, I think that may have been what inspired me to join this forum back in my early days of gun accumulating. I never had to ask the question though because I found someone else with the same problem and used the advice given to them to fix mine.

Bill

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

500 Mag,
I can't get into specifics about the differences between the 500 extractor and others, but the extractor rod on my 500 came loose several times and locked up the gun. In fact, I think that may have been what inspired me to join this forum back in my early days of gun accumulating. I never had to ask the question though because I found someone else with the same problem and used the advice given to them to fix mine.

Bill

500 mag cylinder parts

Basic JKLN cylinder parts

OK then
Because the ball detent lock up of the X frame, I didn't think an extractor rod would tie up the opening up of the X frame compared to the basic S&W design. That thing must of really loosened up on you! A normal S&W can unscrew and tie up the cylinder easily, that's why they need to be tightened up well.

Here are the pictures so you can see a few minor differences. The X has a few extra parts, and the basic tools won't work because that skinny rod must be held with a drill chuck or it won't ever get tight enough. The little knurl is thread locktited to keep it from falling of the gun. All the threads are CCW on the X, same for the modern JKLN guns.

 

[mtb1bkr]

Yeah, it came so loose I could easily turned it by hand. It was my first revolver so I didn't know much about them back then. I shot some factory stuff until I got set up with reloading. Once I was set up, I started with H110 and then moved to Titegroup and Bullseye so I could shoot more before the pain got to me. Everything came loose when I was shooting the heavy stuff, to enclude the side plate screws and the ejector.

Bill

 

[duckloads]

I have a 460 XVR, so i've been following this thread just in case. I have to re-tighten all my sideplate screws quite often. I can shoot 40-60 various rounds, and they will all be loose. I used some blue locktight once, and that helped for a while. I guess it's time to reapply.

Be safe

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Whenever I clean mine, the last thing I do before putting it away is chase all the screws quickly, to make sure everything is tight.

 

[charlies]

Chasing screws

Whenever I clean mine, the last thing I do before putting it away is chase all the screws quickly, to make sure everything is tight.



How do you get them to run?