500 S&W lockup problem...

[TDC]

have a S&W 500 6.5" I purchased new several months ago. The last time I was out at the range I had a problem being able to cock the gun after closing the cylinder. The cylinder appeared to be completely closed and felt like it locked up...... It didn't.

I opened it and closed it several times and I noticed the cylinder release latch didn't seem to be sliding all the way back after closing the cylinder. As soon as I wiggled the cylinder the latch would spring all the way back and the cylinder would successfully lock up. I could then cock the gun again.

I have many K and N frame S&Ws and I've never had this type problem before. I've opened the cylinder on the 500 many times since this problem first occurred and it continues to malfunction about 50% of the time. I'm worried about the safety issues involving this pistol not locking up properly.

I don't know if the problem has something to do with the new external lock or not but I suspect it may be somehow involved. The lock has never been used.. The gun is clean with less than 500 moderate rounds through it.. I haven't had the side plate off.

I'd like to be able to repair it without sending the gun back. Knowledgeable advice would be appreciated so I can determine if it should be sent back for warranty work....

Thanks....

 

[Fuego]

I had a similar problem with a 240PD, NIB from a stocking dealer.

The hand would not rotate the cylinder far enough to allow the cylinder lock to rise.

The first time I contacted S&W, the factory doofuss said it was normal, and would not be a problem when shooting.

I took it back to my dealer. I showed him the problem, and he agreed that it should go back to the factory.

I got it back, and it did the same thing. The dealer sent it back again.

Third time was the charm. I would expect a bit of cussin' and fussin' from my dealer, but it got resolved.

Rather than void the warranty, I would send it back as is to get fixed.

My turn-around was about two weeks...each time! This is for a brand new pistol!! (I call all hand-guns pistols. Sue me.)

 

[125JHP]

I had a very similar issue with my 500 Mag. It would fire 1 or 2 ok but then the cylinder would bind up and I could hardly get it open. The latch didn't seem to unlock it. I sent it back to S&W and they replaced the yolk and cylinder and it seems fine now.

 

[TDC]

Thanks...
]
I contacted customer service yesterday and they're sending me a return shipment label. I really prefer not to send it back if I can avoid it and that's why I posted.

The hand functions fine. Once the cylinder is closed and the latch moves back into place the rotation and timing seem fine. However, until the cylinder is wiggled somewhat and the cylinder latch goes back into place it can't be cocked SA or fired DA. Everything is fine when it does.

Probably wishful thinking to think there may be a simple solution but anyone have any ideas?

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Is it possible that there is some dirt or powder granules, or even a burr in the centerpin hole in the recoil sheild that is not allowing the centerpin to move the thumb latch back all the way?

Also, look at the frame at the front of the cylinder/crane recess for any signs of fouling or powder granules, or burrs that maybe flattened out against the frame and not letting the crane all the way back to the proper alignment to allow the centerpin to move rearward into the locking hole in the recoil sheild.

 

[bountyhunter]

Thanks...
]
However, until the cylinder is wiggled somewhat and the cylinder latch goes back into place it can't be cocked SA or fired DA. Everything is fine when it does.

That's how the gun is designed to work. The cylinder release latch piece acts as a hammer block if it is not securely latched. Same reason the hammer can't be cocked when the cylinder is open (and the thumb release is forward). Until the cylinder is correctly locked in place, I believe the piece can still block the hammer (and thus keep the trigger from being pulled as well).

 

[TDC]

Is it possible that there is some dirt or powder granules, or even a burr in the centerpin hole in the recoil sheild that is not allowing the centerpin to move the thumb latch back all the way?

Also, look at the frame at the front of the cylinder/crane recess for any signs of fouling or powder granules, or burrs that maybe flattened out against the frame and not letting the crane all the way back to the proper alignment to allow the centerpin to move rearward into the locking hole in the recoil sheild.

I thought the same thing about a burr or some kind of residue. That's certainly what it acts like. Usually either will work its way out eventually with other guns I've had similar problems with but that hasn't been the case this time. Neither the yoke/cylinder or the side plate has ever been removed. Residue getting inside a yoke when doing a thorough cleaning has happened to me before but this yoke has never been removed.. Based on the S&W techs reaction when I described the problem I probably better send the gun in... Thanks for the reply.

That's how the gun is designed to work. The cylinder release latch piece acts as a hammer block if it is not securely latched. Same reason the hammer can't be cocked when the cylinder is open (and the thumb release is forward). Until the cylinder is correctly locked in place, I believe the piece can still block the hammer (and thus keep the trigger from being pulled as well).

I'm very grateful the guns are designed that way, too. That is exactly how this gun reacted to the malfunction. I couldn't move either the hammer or trigger until the cylinder release returned to its proper place. I shudder to think what could have happened to a pistol this powerful if it could be fired and the cylinder was still unlocked and not properly aligned.

Thanks again for the replies......

 

[scooter123]

With a gun this powerful IMO sending it back home is the ONLY answer. From your description I would suspect a bent extractor rod or possibly a bent yoke. What is happening is that the center pin in the extractor rod isn't engaging the rear lock because the cylinder isn't closing completely.

That's assuming that you've already confirmed that the yoke is free of any lead or powder accumulation and the yoke recess in the frame is also perfectly clean. If you haven't taken the time to closely examine these areas, you should do that before sending your gun in.