617 Action Work - Gunsmith Recommendation

[SAWMAN]

I ordered a 617 recently and had planned on sending to S&W Performance Center to have the (S&W factory wire brush scratch finish) either polished or bead blasted matte as well as an action tune... Recently I found out that the Performance Center does not do any action tuning for 22 revolvers? Not sure why?

So I was thinking about sending to Apex Tactical to have action tuned... Does anyone have experience with them for S&W revolver tuning?
I'm wanting the trigger pull definitely lightened but I've read various stories about when you lighten triggers on the 617 you can run into light primer strikes?
I've also read depending on the gunsmith they recommend using snap caps and not dry firing them as well?

On their website they have different action level packages for revolvers but it looks like there is only one package available for 22 LR revolvers.
http://www.apextacti...om/services.php
Any advice or experience would be appreciated

 

[J-FRAME]

Why not do a Wolf spring kit yourself and buy some bulk ammo and shoot the heck out of it to break it in.. Leave the finish as is it will be easier to clean and maintain. Just what I would do.

 

[J-FRAME]

And a extended firing pin.Sorry forgot that.

 

[Stainz]

I wouldn't put an extended fp in a 617. Without a spent case or snapcap, it will already tag the cylinder rim relief cutouts. Never dryfire it without spent cases or snapcaps - a fact for all rimfire revolvers. I would get a regular power hammer spring Wolff kit and put in the higher or middle trigger return spring, your choice. I'd also go to Home Depot and get a pack of two (<$1) socket head hardened SS 6-48 (Wow - they may be 8-48 - I don't recall - senior moment!) set screws. Note the separation of the OEM spring from the frame. Remove the original strain screw - replace the hammer spring (The sideplate is off from changing the trigger return spring.). The original strain screw has a small end that intrudes into the tunnel hump of the 'Power Rib on the new Wolff spring. The new screw is flat - and adjustable with an Allen wrench. Be sure that the sideplate is in place. Test it with your cheapo ammo - it's usually pickier. If you get ftf's, turn the screw CW, putting more pre-load on the spring (... and making the DA pull higher!). If you get no ftf's - unscrew it CCW - a half a turn at a time - until you just get no ftf's. Turn it in (CW) another 1/2 turn and put a toothpick drop of blue Loctite on each end of the screw in the frame. Re-assemble the revover - and - the hard part - wait 20+ hr for the Loctite to set.

This will give you a minimally efficient hammer spring - and minimal DA pull trigger. It's worth the trouble. People will look at you strangely - especially shooting your revolver without grips - just smile - there is no recoil anyway. Some rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip or two can de-oil the screw/frame before adding the blue Loctite. It breaks free far easier than the red type! Also, don't worry about slicking up the innards - 500-1,000 rounds down range will do that - just add a drop of oil.

Stainz

PS They remain 'pc' (politically correct) at S&W - and rimfires take more oomph to pop - thus the stiffer rimfire hammer springs. They did do a basic $85 job on the 617 - not the J-frames - polishing the innards only, no spring changes.

 

[cal50]

Its not hard to DIY. I would get a new / lighter rebound spring and polish the block and mating surfaces inside. Deburred, polished , lubes with a lighter rebound spring will make it feel like a different pistol.

 

[Aussie D]

I wouldn't put an extended fp in a 617. Without a spent case or snapcap, it will already tag the cylinder rim relief cutouts. Never dryfire it without spent cases or snapcaps - a fact for all rimfire revolvers. I would get a regular power hammer spring Wolff kit and put in the higher or middle trigger return spring, your choice. I'd also go to Home Depot and get a pack of two (<$1) socket head hardened SS 6-48 (Wow - they may be 8-48 - I don't recall - senior moment!) set screws. Note the separation of the OEM spring from the frame. Remove the original strain screw - replace the hammer spring (The sideplate is off from changing the trigger return spring.). The original strain screw has a small end that intrudes into the tunnel hump of the 'Power Rib on the new Wolff spring. The new screw is flat - and adjustable with an Allen wrench. Be sure that the sideplate is in place. Test it with your cheapo ammo - it's usually pickier. If you get ftf's, turn the screw CW, putting more pre-load on the spring (... and making the DA pull higher!). If you get no ftf's - unscrew it CCW - a half a turn at a time - until you just get no ftf's. Turn it in (CW) another 1/2 turn and put a toothpick drop of blue Loctite on each end of the screw in the frame. Re-assemble the revover - and - the hard part - wait 20+ hr for the Loctite to set.

This will give you a minimally efficient hammer spring - and minimal DA pull trigger. It's worth the trouble. People will look at you strangely - especially shooting your revolver without grips - just smile - there is no recoil anyway. Some rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip or two can de-oil the screw/frame before adding the blue Loctite. It breaks free far easier than the red type! Also, don't worry about slicking up the innards - 500-1,000 rounds down range will do that - just add a drop of oil.

Stainz

PS They remain 'pc' (politically correct) at S&W - and rimfires take more oomph to pop - thus the stiffer rimfire hammer springs. They did do a basic $85 job on the 617 - not the J-frames - polishing the innards only, no spring changes.

The set screw thread you require is 8-32 to replace the strain screw. i would definitely recomend having the frame drilled and tapped for a 4-40 set screw, which is used to lock the strain screw in position to prevent it backing out with use.

I would also do a ball crane lock as well to minise friction as well as general polish work in the action.

Cheers,

Aussie D

 

[JamesArthur60]

I had my gunsmith install a new sight on my 617 and I asked him about a trigger job. He doesn't recommend them on that model. Something about light strikes on the 22 cartridge. I assume he knows best, so I just shoot it SA most of the time.

 

[snubbiefan]

Just shoot the sucker. Go shoot a 317, or some other j-frame in 22...then come back and shoot your 617. You will luv it just like it is.

 

[roaddog28]

I had my gunsmith install a new sight on my 617 and I asked him about a trigger job. He doesn't recommend them on that model. Something about light strikes on the 22 cartridge. I assume he knows best, so I just shoot it SA most of the time.

I agree. Putting lighter springs kits in 22 revolvers may make the trigger lighter but at the price of having misfires. A rimfire 22 needs a hard strike by the hammer. I would not put less than a number 12 hammer spring in the 617.
Better yet, it you don't what to do a action trigger job, have a gunsmith do it. Most likely the gunsmith will polish and smooth the bearing or mating surfaces of the trigger parts. A lot of gunsmiths won't change the springs on a 22 LR revolver.
If you are thinking of getting a trigger pull like a model 19, forget it. Even with a well tuned 22 LR revolver the trigger pull will be heavier.

Just a suggestion.
Regards,
Howard