625JM strain screw problem

[racefan]

Picked up my first revolver a few weeks ago a barely shot like new 625JM. It came with a bang spring kit that was never installed so I figured I would install and see how much it changes the double action pull feel. Went to remove the strain screw and it is rock solid it will not budge at all and starting to round the slot a bit. Is this a common issue for a screw that has not been removed? I can take it to a smith but hate to pay somebody if I do not need to.

Here is a photo of it. SDM fiber optic front site, weigand .0125 rear sight blade, Hogue kingwood grips. Have all original parts he bought to shoot comp and never did. I am Shooting 230gn blue bullets over 231 power.

Smith & Wesson 625 JM by Scott Elm, on Flickr

Smith & Wesson 625 JM by Scott Elm, on Flickr

 

[Protocall_Design]

Very nice gun. You will enjoy shooting that one! The strain screw normally comes out fairly easy. That one may have Loctite and need to be heated up to break down the Loctite.

 

[9mmsubgun-m11]

Make sure you are using a hollow ground bit to remove the screw and you might need to apply a little heat with a hair drier or heat gun.

 

[racefan]

thank you for the fast replies. I will try a heat gun tomorrow but will use low first to see if it frees it up.

 

[rog8732]

One of the little electric soldering irons can be held directly on the screw head too. It might put heat on the threads a little more direct and quicker.

 

[JAREDSHS]

beautiful gun—-you probably don’t need the spring change out just need to go shoot and enjoy.

 

[bananaman]

You are sure to enjoy the JM! Have you tried any kind of penetrant on the screw and let it soak in? My JM has functioned quite well. I use RIMZ, poly moon-clips (no tools needed). Bob

 

[racefan]

I also use the rimz moon clips

Well tried the heat no luck will not move at all either direction it .
After it cools down I will try so penetrating oil see if that helps if not you'll have to go to a Smith because I don't want to round it off totally then it'll have to go back to Smith & Wesson which I don't want to do something wrong with this picture cuz this screw should not be this tight as tiniest crew as it is no way no how to screw is tightened up tight without some kind of locker bonding material on it

 

[racefan]

Update
Tried pb breaker no luck then tried getting screw real hot with a soldering iorn no luck will not move at all. Guess it will have to go to a gun smith for a simple screw.

 

[StakeOut]

I'm thinking a wrong size screw was forced in there or some JB Weld or RED loctite applied.

I've bought previously owned revolvers with square butt stain screw in a round butt and one with JB Weld on all the screws.With both,I cut the mainspring to relieve pressure and allow more work room.The one with JB Weld took over a week of heat and tapping to free up but the wrong screw needed to be drilled out and hole retapped..

When you buy used you never know what to expect so be prepared.

 

[Nick B]

Try the soldering iron again . You might have to leave the tip on the screw for several minutes to get it hot enough . I've used this method on screws with red Loctite and it works well .

 

[ken158]

I think the hints here are “barely shot” and “never installed spring kit”. Good indication that the first owner messed up something (strain screw) got frustrated and dumped the gun... I’m thinking cross threaded somehow or replaced with a non factory screw maybe.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Most likely just red or green Loctite. You have to get over 350 degrees to disable it. Just needs more heat. When you can see a wisp of smoke and smell an acrid odor, you are there. Keep the heat on it for a little longer, then it will undo.

 

[firebug106]

Just a thought, look under the butt of the frame. See if there was a small set screw drilled and tapped to hold the strain screw in place. That could be your culprit, but it's custom work and not common. However, I too believe it could be the wrong screw tightened into the frame. Generous soaking, moderate heat, and the proper fitted screwdriver is your best hope.

 

[rog8732]

Don't lose hope; step away from getting frustrated; don't forget, "it went in - it'll come out".

Hopefully it's not an incorrectly threaded screw. From the professional looking mods the former owner did though, it seems far-fetched he would have buggered one little screw

Get on Lock-tite's web-site and learn the real release agent for their products.

 

[racefan]

I may try the soldering iron again I did keep it on there for about 10 minutes before I tried to loosen the screw the previous owner I know in person and see him every week at the club.

 

[photoman]

A properly fitted screwdriver is a MUST.

 

[Zipdog]

Two stainless galled parts will never unscrew. If that is the case only drilling it out will work. If you don't have the exact correct screwdriver get one before going any further. Using penitrating oil on stainless parts does nothing. For reassembly anti- seize is your friend.

 

[mike campbell]

If you could clamp it to a drill press table, put the proper bit in the chuck, keep the drill OFF, press down on the handle and turn the chuck with the bare hand, you can do no better. I've removed many fine-slotted screws from 80 yr old side-by-sides. Never failed to break one free and never buggered one.

 

[rbert0005]

I use my propane torch. You wont have to leave it on there long.
Just until you see a little puff of smoke.

Bob