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I would like a 357 mag for target and HD,what would be the best all around choice.I really like the look and feel of the 66,but have not fired one as yet.HELP PLEASE!
66 OR 686 4"
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I would like a 357 mag for target and HD,what would be the best all around choice.I really like the look and feel of the 66,but have not fired one as yet.HELP PLEASE!
I own several of both models, with varying barrel lengths. I'll base all my opinions on the 4" barrel length of both models.
"best", being subjective, I'll tell you which model works best for me, and why. If you can arrange it, you should really shoot both, as there are slight differences between the two models, which while they may not matter to me, may be of consequence to you.
I use my 4" 66 for range and HD, and carry a 2.5", and 3" for CCW and work, on the occasions I carry a revolver. The 66, and K-frame magnums in general, are lighter, slimmer, and just point more naturally, for me. All of my model 66's, have been VERY accurate. I would call my 66-4 3", and 66-2 4" tack drivers. 2.5" at 20 yards being fairly routine, when I do my part. The cylinder is narrower on the 66 which makes it easier to conceal as well.
I have a 686-3 4", a 686 CS-1 3", and just put a 686-4+ 4" on layaway. These are beefy revolvers, IMHO. Being L-frames, they are heavier than the K-frames, and wider in the cylinder. While they are well balanced, they are just not as "lively" as the K-frames, for me. I've not shot the 686-4+ yet, but my other two 686's are accurate revolvers. The best group I've shot, was with the CS-1, being 1.75" at 15 yards, using WWB 38's.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your decision. Regards 18DAI.
"best", being subjective, I'll tell you which model works best for me, and why. If you can arrange it, you should really shoot both, as there are slight differences between the two models, which while they may not matter to me, may be of consequence to you.
I use my 4" 66 for range and HD, and carry a 2.5", and 3" for CCW and work, on the occasions I carry a revolver. The 66, and K-frame magnums in general, are lighter, slimmer, and just point more naturally, for me. All of my model 66's, have been VERY accurate. I would call my 66-4 3", and 66-2 4" tack drivers. 2.5" at 20 yards being fairly routine, when I do my part. The cylinder is narrower on the 66 which makes it easier to conceal as well.
I have a 686-3 4", a 686 CS-1 3", and just put a 686-4+ 4" on layaway. These are beefy revolvers, IMHO. Being L-frames, they are heavier than the K-frames, and wider in the cylinder. While they are well balanced, they are just not as "lively" as the K-frames, for me. I've not shot the 686-4+ yet, but my other two 686's are accurate revolvers. The best group I've shot, was with the CS-1, being 1.75" at 15 yards, using WWB 38's.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your decision. Regards 18DAI.
Kamerer
Member
As with 18DAI, I have some of both, nothing longer than 4," and I do not have a 2.5" 686.
I agree with what he said. I'll add this - if the primary purpose is target, then the 686 may be your thing - I find it a little more accurate than the 66, and the factory action is a bit smoother - I have a 686-0 and have found this to be true on a few of the guns from this vintage (mid 80s). My 66's are from the early 70s and perhaps this is a QC thing and not strictly model characteristics.
If you just enjoy punching holes in paper (and who doesn't?), I think the 686 has an edge. If you want to do combat style shooting with movement and multiple targets, the 66 may feel/point a little better. For HD (which I read as "sitting in a drawer), either will be fine. If you wan to carry, then the 66 is a tad easier, and the 2.5" round butt variant is MUCH easier.
Basically, I don't even touch the 4" guns as I use mine for defense and the round butt 2.5" is easier to carry and it is just as controllable as the 4" - only slightly more bark to it and that can be corrected with combat grips.
Remember never to shoot .357 bullets smaller then 158gr in a K-frame magnum. Inspect any used K magnum carefully around the forcing cone and for excessive flame cutting on the back strap.
I agree with what he said. I'll add this - if the primary purpose is target, then the 686 may be your thing - I find it a little more accurate than the 66, and the factory action is a bit smoother - I have a 686-0 and have found this to be true on a few of the guns from this vintage (mid 80s). My 66's are from the early 70s and perhaps this is a QC thing and not strictly model characteristics.
If you just enjoy punching holes in paper (and who doesn't?), I think the 686 has an edge. If you want to do combat style shooting with movement and multiple targets, the 66 may feel/point a little better. For HD (which I read as "sitting in a drawer), either will be fine. If you wan to carry, then the 66 is a tad easier, and the 2.5" round butt variant is MUCH easier.
Basically, I don't even touch the 4" guns as I use mine for defense and the round butt 2.5" is easier to carry and it is just as controllable as the 4" - only slightly more bark to it and that can be corrected with combat grips.
Remember never to shoot .357 bullets smaller then 158gr in a K-frame magnum. Inspect any used K magnum carefully around the forcing cone and for excessive flame cutting on the back strap.
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Four inch 66 is best all around revolver S&W has ever made. Powerful, small enough and light enough to conceal, great action, etc. I just would do most shooting with 38 specials for practice. For defense, use 125 grain JHP magnum load, but only fire a few for familiarization each year.
Snapping Twig
Member
I can probably help you out here Mini. Forcing cone erosion and top strap cutting.
Heavier bullets are longer and take more time to "jump the gap" and therefore give the powder extra time to burn and leave less grains to savage these parts, kind of like sand blasting.
Typically, H110/W296 and light (125g) bullets in combination account for this problem. Light bullets with a faster powder or heavier bullets with H110/W296 avoid the problem generally speaking.
Heavier bullets are longer and take more time to "jump the gap" and therefore give the powder extra time to burn and leave less grains to savage these parts, kind of like sand blasting.
Typically, H110/W296 and light (125g) bullets in combination account for this problem. Light bullets with a faster powder or heavier bullets with H110/W296 avoid the problem generally speaking.
animalmother
Member
+ 1 for the 686.
Allen-frame
Member
Buying one revolver ,first. The model 66 if it has to be stainless. The model 19 for blue or nickel.(Don't limit yourself).
Don't forget a copy of Bill Jordans book : No second place winner.
The K frame handles faster and is a dream to shoot with 38s'.
Here's a 4 in. 66-2 ,recently acquired ,man ,what a shooter.
Regards ,,,,Al
Don't forget a copy of Bill Jordans book : No second place winner.
The K frame handles faster and is a dream to shoot with 38s'.
Here's a 4 in. 66-2 ,recently acquired ,man ,what a shooter.
Regards ,,,,Al
likestoshoot2
Member
Here is my first but not last Mdl 66. It is a no-dash model and shoots like a dream. I don't have a 4" 686, but do own a 6" 7 shot 686 which I don't carry but do love to shoot.
What you need do is try both and then fight inside your head which is best, they are both great Models.
What you need do is try both and then fight inside your head which is best, they are both great Models.
I have a couple 686s, one each in 4" and 2.5", I don't own any 66s. My first choice would be the 66. Why? Because I do own a couple 19s and they beat the 686 for anything I would use them for.
If I want a heavy duty gun I would go with a model 27/28.
If I want a heavy duty gun I would go with a model 27/28.
tom turner
US Veteran
Comparing the guns is a lot like comparing fine women. Some like 'em shapely, light, fast and ultra responsive when you stroke that trigger. Others like 'em beefy, chunky and sturdy.
Both types can be outstanding and give you excellent results!
However, after having both types, I like the 66 much better. She's lighter, faster and more responsive when you whip it out . . . and nicer to look at too!
Some say you can wear the lil' gal out faster than the chunky one . . . but in all my years of tryin,' I've come to the conclusion that she'll be goin' strong long after I am!
T.
Both types can be outstanding and give you excellent results!
However, after having both types, I like the 66 much better. She's lighter, faster and more responsive when you whip it out . . . and nicer to look at too!
Some say you can wear the lil' gal out faster than the chunky one . . . but in all my years of tryin,' I've come to the conclusion that she'll be goin' strong long after I am!
T.
hitecrednek
Member
Love those K-frames!
the 66 is tops for me.
the 66 is tops for me.
Centurian77
Member
I personally think the 3" 66 is the best all around revolver ever created. It's concealable with full length ejector and is stainless for carry. This followed by the .357 model 60 J frame. Between these two you really don't need much else unless you plan on hunting.
tom turner
US Veteran
I absolutely LOVE the Model 65, in 3" the best. Mine has perfectly regulated sights that never break, lose their zero or get snagged.
Super fast from the holster (or from the low-ready), it is an accurate speed demon when shooting it in matches.
If the 3" versions are the best (and I thoroughly agree), then the fixed sight Model 65 RULES!
T.
Super fast from the holster (or from the low-ready), it is an accurate speed demon when shooting it in matches.
If the 3" versions are the best (and I thoroughly agree), then the fixed sight Model 65 RULES!
T.
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