686 vs ???

Buckmark13

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.Hi everyone! New member here from VA in the market for a revolver. While it will be my first revolver, I have a number of other guns; 1911, FNS-9, Browning Buckmark, a number of shotguns, muzzleloaders, and I do a lot of bow hunting.

What I'd like input on are some specifics to look for and / or avoid for something that's good for the following:

Use: Possible hunting game up to Whitetails, and target shooting / plinking. Accuracy is important to me. May also carry when in the woods.

Caliber: leaning towards 357. The thoughts is it's a versitle caliber that I can buy / reload for various uses. I also love the fact that I can use .38 Special for plinking or at the indoor range. I live very close to the NRA headquarters, so that's a huge plus and the cost of shooting .38 is also appealing.

Price: Would like to keep it in the ballpark of $600 or so, but can flex a bit. I do not want to go really high end on a hunting / target specific gun that will set me back too much.

Top Choices: S&W 686 and also considering the Ruger GP100. Leaning towards a 4" but keep going back and forth between that and the 6".

So, what recommendations do you have to look at or avoid? What should I pay close attention to when evaluating a used revolver? Any thoughts on the models or are there other alternatives that I should really consider given the above criteria.

Thanks in advance!
 
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4" in either gun balances well. I'm partial to Smith and Wesson but I own both models. The Ruger is a little heavier. The Smith action and trigger is smoother. IMHO. I just bought another 686 today.
 

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Welcome to the S&W Forum from Kansas.

It would be hard to come up with a much better choice than a L-frame (medium-large frame) 4" or 6" S&W Model 686 for your stated purpose. The equivalent revolver in carbon steel blue finish version is a Model 586.

There are a myriad of options from S&W in .357 with adjustable sights in a 4" or 6" barrel in the price range you mention.

N-frame (large frame) options: Models 27, 28.

K-frame (medium frame): Models 19, 66.

There are multiple posts regarding tips or guides for purchasing a used revolver (timing, end shake, push off, etc.). Along the upper toolbar (just below the Smith & Wesson Forum banner) select Search and in the dropdown menu use the Google Custom Search section and type in appropriate search terms and select Go.
 
For plinking and hunting, a 6" gun has some advantages. Since "tactical" is not listed and accuracy is, a Ruger Blackhawk 6 1/2" might be interesting to look at.
 
Can't go wrong with a 686+ 4", used but in good condition will drop that price tag down a lot.

The 6" is a good option for hunting, only drawback will be the weight, it will be hard to hold on target for any length of time. If it must be a 6" I would choose the model 19.

Enjoy the hunt for your new Smith!
 
Well, I started with a 6" 686, and it is a fine range gun for standing flatfooted shooting at paper or steel. However, when I bought a 4" 686, my handgun carry and use took off exponentially, and the 6" mostly stays in the safe.
A 4" barrel is handy for carry, can be worn seated in a truck, and is ideal for IDPA revolver competition. It is handy and accurate with anything from .38 WC to .357 158gr softpoint.
IMHO, .357 magnum is a short-range experts gun for whitetail hunting, even though that is what I use for our 125# Oklahoma whitetails. I am primarily a bowhunter that has the patience to get close and only take very good shots at standing deer. Like an arrow, a small pistol caliber has no knockdown shock power and depends on hitting the vitals, making the deer bleed out. I have never lost a wounded deer, but I have spent up to 5 hours on the "second stalk."
If you like the more popular method of deer hunting (deer shooting?) here in Oklahoma, sitting in a big permanent blind watching a deer feeder, a longer barrel ( and larger caliber) are more practical, IMHO. Not my cup of tea.
 
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While I prefer 4" revolver, for the uses you state, a 6" revolver would be much better (if not longer).

For the money, you might be able to find a good 6" 686, I find the 6" can be found cheaper then the lengths (for the 686).

The GP-100 is a fine revolver and for the money you stated, you would probably have an easier time finding a good GP.

Good luck in your search and welcome from Delaware!
 
. Since "tactical" is not listed and accuracy is, a Ruger Blackhawk 6 1/2" might be interesting to look at.

I agree on the Blackhawk recommendation. Also if you reload, it can handle loads the others can't.
 
Hunting and plinking are on opposite ends of the revolver spectrum. To be good for one, the gun will be compromised for the other.

For hunting, I would go either .41 Magnum or .44 Magnum in at least a 6" barrel. 8" would be better.

For plinking, I would get either a .22lr, or, if willing to spend more money on ammo for plinking, a .38 Special. Barrel length could be either 4" or 6", longer would work, too, since you are not carrying it for defensive use. With the .38 Special, you would have the option to also shoot .357 Magnum so you "could" hunt with it, but most handgun hunters consider .357 Mag to be too small for a good hunting cartridge.

For plinking, the 617, which is a stainless steel 10-shot .22lr on a K-frame would be a good choice.

A really good "all-around" first Smith & Wesson would be a Model 19 or Model 66 with 4" barrel. This is a great revolver, but it would be neither a great hunting gun nor a great plinker. The new M66-8 is getting great reviews.

For hunting, the minimum I would consider would be a Model 629 with 8" barrel. That would be a stainless steel N-frame gun in .44 Magnum.

JMHO
 
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My 2 cents. As you will find, it's hard to find one gun that does everything without compromise. If you are truly wanting this gun to ethically hunt whitetails, you'll want to go with a 6" BBL ( or better) to maximize your velocity, sight radius ( and resulting accuracy).
Beyond that, while I prefer the triggers on the 686, a GP100 will also do fine job and be a bit cheaper.
 
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I've owned a 6" 686 since the late 1980s and always liked the GP100. The GPs came out shortly after I bought my 686. Finally I bought a 4" GP100 two years ago.

I'll carry either around our property as a varmit/sportsman's gun. Both are great revolvers, just use a good belt and holster. I have no problems with the longer barrel and for hunting the longer sight radius would be helpful. Accuracy is equal. My 686 had a better trigger out of the box. The GP's trigger was a little rough out of the box, but it smoothed up very nicely in about 200 rounds. Now the triggers are about equal.

I agree with you about the .38/.357 caliber. It's extremely versatile. When 22LR was hard to find I simply loaded up more .38 wadcutters. Out of the 686 it's just like shooting 22LR. On the other end of the spectrum you have .357 hunting rounds. But, you still have the same trigger, weight, balance and sights.

Edit: One other thing: When I bought my GP100 it came with Hogues. I quickly replaced those with the old original style Ruger rubber grips with walnut inserts that I found on eBay for $30. A much more secure and usable grip for the GP100- and better looking too! It makes a world of difference with the ergonomics for me. See TNZ71's photo above. I understand Ruger is able to save a production cost by shipping GP100s with Hogues. Hogues are cheaper than the original GP100 grip, and the grip is the most changed item on a handgun. So I can't fault Ruger for trying to hold prices.
 
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I'm with those who say go with the 6" since you want to hunt with it. I would rather have a 44 but 357 certainly has killed them. I'd opt for a 29. Pre-lock only for me; unfortunately that's not going to fit in your budget
 
I own 2 S&W 686 revolvers with 4 inch barrels and 6 shot cylinders and i love them their darn fine revolvers.

I have some limited shooting experience with the Ruger gp100 also with a 4 inch barrel.

Of those two i recommend the 686.
 
I have a 3" and a 4". Both are great. I could not decide on what barrel length, so I bought both. Will probably get a 6" at some point too.

Ruger's are great as well, I am just drawn more to the Smiths.
 
Welcome to the FORUM! You will get good opinions & reasons why 1 is better than the other. I have 3 L frame .357 magnums. 4", 5", and 6". 6" is quite accurate for me. Have not fired the 5" yet. You can plink all you want with .38 Special. If you reload, and buy components right, it is cheaper than .22. I loaded quite a few for $3.48 a box of 50.
Just remember, YOU will have to decide what is right for you. Sometimes gun ranges have rental guns you could try. Good luck with your quest! Bob
 
The 686 is one of the finest revolvers made, IMO. This model is responsible for my initial appreciation of S&W revolvers. Beware, this is habit forming. I like Ruger too, but it's the single action Rugers for me. All I can say is pick the gun you like the most, then shoot it a lot.
 
For a multipurpose .357Mag, you might consider that the K-frame Smiths (13, 65, 19, 66) have been known to suffer cracked forcing cones with hot loads and light (e.g. 125 gr) bullets (a lot of the defensive ammo). There are discussions on this forum and elsewhere about this topic. I have a M66 and love it, but shoot only .38 Spl and 140 gr and up .357s. Comments I have read indicate that the L-frames (586, 586+,686, 686+) don't risk this problem. I also have a M686+ 4" that shoots anything and is almost as fun to shoot at the M66. The 6" M686 seems to me to be a bit front-heavy for extended range sessions, although a tack driver.
 
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You might want to look at a model 28-2 with a 6" barrel. They can be bought in the range of your budget, and the quality is better than any "L" frame. I have a 686. It's a nice revolver, but if forced to choose between the two, it would be gone. What to look for in a revolver? There are plenty of threads about that on this forum. Good luck.
 
Ruger makes a Flattop Blackhawk, which has a slightly smaller frame than the standard one, in 357 MGN, with a 9mm extra cylinder included. I had one, until I traded it for a similar model in 44 SPL. They are nice revolvers. I didn't have any use for the 9mm cylinder, as I reload the 357 MGN rounds, but, for a non reloader, the 9mm cylinders can provide less expensive plinking. Most users don't notice any difference in accuracy due to the slightly smaller diameter of the 9mm bullet. .355 instead of .357 inches. Could handle heavy 357 MGN ammo for hunting. Comes in two barrel lengths.

Best,
Rick
 
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