686P Trigger
- Thread starter ajvossman
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Most of the time you can just install a lighter rebound spring. Some folks also install a lighter hammer spring, but the rebound spring alone will lighten it a lot and not risk light primer strikes.
Thanks for the info I read on other web sites of other people doing that but didn't know what brand or # spring they were using? What about a break down of the gun anyone know where I can find that? Thanks again
Most of the kits are done by Wolff or Wilson Combat. I use the lightest spring available. They usually come in a kit with a choice of three trigger springs and a reduced power mainspring. I have been getting away from using the reduced power mainspring lately due to light primer strikes on one gun. All the rest that I have installed reduced power hammer springs in shoot fine with all types of ammo, but that one has me spooked a little.
Much much info here on disassembly and repair. Use the search function at the top of the page.
Much much info here on disassembly and repair. Use the search function at the top of the page.
snowman
Member
Welcome to the forum, John. I installed the Wolff reduced power springs in one of my 686P's five or six years ago. This lightened the trigger pull a great deal from the factory set-up. I have never had a single failure-to-fire with this gun and don't expect to. HOWEVER, I believe that the reason I've not had a problem is that I also installed a Cylinder & Slide extended firing pin at the same time I installed the springs. There is another company that makes them also; I believe it's called Apex. These are made ONLY for the guns with a frame-mounted pin, which are the 686-5s and newer(If your gun is a -4 or older, you have to use the hammer-mounted pin installed at the factory).
The Cylinder & Slide pin provides more positive ignition NOT because it is longer than the factory pin, but because the tip is more pointed. Consequently it doesn't require as much hammer force to dent the primer to sufficient depth for firing.
Hope this helps.
Andy
The Wolff spring is an easy way to get the weight down without messing with spring bending and fitting/loctiting a strain screw. Miculek (Bang Inc.) also makes a spring, but that one requires that you loctite the strain screw or fit a new one. I would go with the Miculek spring if you want to maintain reliability with all primers because it is capable of being almost factory strength if you crank the strain screw down all the way. I have worn a Wolff spring out with extensive dry firing to the point that it is only reliable with Federal small pistol.
I use the Wolff 11 pound rebound spring with 1 coil cut on all my guns and they have a very positive reset, but I don't ride the trigger.
I use the Wolff 11 pound rebound spring with 1 coil cut on all my guns and they have a very positive reset, but I don't ride the trigger.
Well i ordered the wolff spring kit and installed.What a differance dry firing it. I did go with the 11lb rebound spring. I cant believe how good it feels.
Gonna hit the range tomorrow as long as it go's bang it might be the best $15.00 i spent on any gun i own. lol
Gonna hit the range tomorrow as long as it go's bang it might be the best $15.00 i spent on any gun i own. lol
scooter123
Member
A small warning. I tried a 12 lbs. rebound spring in my model 610 and in dry fire testing it functioned perfectly. However, in live fire testing the action locked up twice in 48 rounds sent downrange. What happened was that the rebound slide didn't fully return until I "helped" it by pushing the trigger forward. Since then, I've installed a 14 lbs. rebound spring and it funtions perfectly.
One other issue is that the 12 lbs. rebound spring reduced the Single Action trigger pull to the point where I would NOT allow anyone except myself to use the gun. I still have a 12 lbs. rebound spring in my 617 and the SA trigger breaks a bit below 2 lbs. That is light enough that it makes me a bit uncomfortable and next time I go into the 617 it's going to get a 14 lbs. rebound spring. On my 610, the 14 lbs. rebound spring produces a SA break just over 3 lbs. and that is a weight that I find much more comfortable to shoot with.
Point is, if you're combining an 11 lbs. rebound spring with a lighter mainspring, BE VERY VERY careful any time you do any shooting in Single Action, I suspect you'll find it breaks between 1.2 and 1.5 lbs. With a trigger this light, you don't ever put your finger on the trigger until the gun is aimed and you're completely ready to fire it.
One other issue is that the 12 lbs. rebound spring reduced the Single Action trigger pull to the point where I would NOT allow anyone except myself to use the gun. I still have a 12 lbs. rebound spring in my 617 and the SA trigger breaks a bit below 2 lbs. That is light enough that it makes me a bit uncomfortable and next time I go into the 617 it's going to get a 14 lbs. rebound spring. On my 610, the 14 lbs. rebound spring produces a SA break just over 3 lbs. and that is a weight that I find much more comfortable to shoot with.
Point is, if you're combining an 11 lbs. rebound spring with a lighter mainspring, BE VERY VERY careful any time you do any shooting in Single Action, I suspect you'll find it breaks between 1.2 and 1.5 lbs. With a trigger this light, you don't ever put your finger on the trigger until the gun is aimed and you're completely ready to fire it.
