A pre 34, need a bit of knowledge - please!

[msp2640]

I inherited, several years back, this revolver, that I immediately thought was a model 34. It was/is in near new condition and appears to have never been fired. It has a nice matte type of bluing, unlike some later more polished, blued S&W revolvers I own. I wiped it down and placed it in the safe, as I have several other 22 handguns to use. After reading here alot, I decided to take it and a few others that rarely see daylight, out to look at. It's actually a pre model 34 version. Has matching #s on the frame and yoke of 19320 and has #785 stamped on the bottom of the round butt. It's a 4" model with the flat latch and diamond grips. Should the grips be numbered to the revolver?, as there are no numbers penciled or stamped on them. Which is the actual serial number? Lastly, is there an online source or recommended book to research S&W manufacture dates. Thanks for your time - Bill in MA

 

[crsides]

Serial number is 785, stamped on the butt. Early gun, should have shipped 1953-54. Nice collectible gun.

Charlie

 

[Inusuit]

Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson 4th Edition is the go-to book for S&W information including the best serial number data available without getting a letter from the factory or receiving information from those people on this forum who maintain their own databases of S&W handguns. It would be helpful to said experts if you posted clear pictures your gun and also the number of screws in the sideplate and whether or not it has a strain screw on the front strap.

In every case I'm familiar with, the firearm serial number is on the butt of the gun. Other numbers in other places, unless they match the butt number, are usually assembly numbers and have no relevance after the firearm leaves the factory.

In the good old days, i.e., the vintage of your revolver, the serial number was either written in pencil on the back of the grip, or later stamped in that location.

 

[JP@AK]

With serial number 785 it has to be a .22/32 Kit Gun Model of 1953. It would be quite early in the Model of 1953 production, which started with serial number 101 in 1953.

It is still early enough to have the upper sideplate screw, so it would be a four screw gun. The Model of 1953 never had the fifth screw (the one in the front of the trigger guard). Also, the flat latch would be the second type. The Kit Guns didn't get the first type and yours is too early to have the third type. Finally, all Model of 1953 Kit Guns had the coil mainspring, so there won't be a strain screw in the forestrap.

The original stocks should have had the serial number impressed into the wood on the inside of the right panel. By the 1950s penciled serial numbers were long gone. The absence of the impressed number probably means the stocks are not original, but there is no guarantee. It could have been just missed in production.

Hondo44 is the true expert on these guns, so I hope he will weigh in here to give you further information. He can probably pin down the likely ship date for you.

 

[JP@AK]

Thanks, Jim! A "Like" from you on a post like this one is a huge compliment. Made my day!

 

[Hondo44]

Hi Bill,

Jack above has ID'd your Kit Gun accurately. "Model of 1953 22/32 Kit Gun" built on the New I frame forging with larger trigger guard, coil main spring, and 1/8" longer grip frame than previous models.

Your # 765 most likely shipped ~in the 3rd quarter of 1954. It came in the red box.

Much more detail on page 144 of the SCSW, 4th ed. if you have it or here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/blog.php?b=103

It's numbered as follows:

SERIAL # LOCATIONS: To confirm all parts are original, one can check for the 6 (or 7, on Triple Locks only) matching serial # locations for fixed sight pre war Hand Ejectors and all post war Hand Ejectors thru ~1956 (and a few as much as 3 years later).
NOTE: Observing serial #s for accuracy or even existence, especially on penciled stocks, requires magnification, bright light, and an attitude that it is there!

1. Gun butt – (or fore strap on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt)

2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud

3. Yoke - on rear face only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight

4. Extractor star - backside

5. Cylinder - rear face

6. Right stock only - on back, (except most post war target stocks because individual fitting not required); stamped, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material.

7. Triple Locks only: rear side of middle lock cam plate

ASSEMBLY (factory work) #s: These multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke at the hinge, in the ‘yoke cut’ on frame (accompanied with a stamped inspector letter) opposite the yoke above the hinge, and inside of the sideplate, for the pre war and early post war period. Once the gun is shipped, the only use for the assembly #s is to confirm the three parts it's stamped on are original. They will have various inspector letters stamped with them.

In 1957 the assembly # in the yoke cut of the frame was relocated to the left side of grip frame after model #s were assigned and the serial # was eventually added in the ‘yoke cut’ where the assembly #, now moved to the left side of the grip frame, used to be. You know they are assembly (factory work) #s because of those 3 locations that always match on guns that are original, and that’s the only usefulness for them after guns leave the factory; still used to this day, long after serial number locations decreased.

 

[msp2640]

Thanks for the info.....and pics

Gents - I'm obviously still learning, as much as I missed the lack of model number the first time, I also missed the 4th side plate screw, when I had the grips off earlier! I greatly appreciate your help and info, Jim has been a great help to me in the past on the Ruger Forum, so Thanks again as well! I'll try to add the 3 pics I just took, other than the slight cylinder line and the faintest spot near the muzzle, bluing is great, no evidence of any powder rings on the cylinder face either.

 

[Hondo44]

That's a well preserved Kit Gun!

I only see the slightest bit of blue wear on the toe of the grip frame butt and the front lower corner of the right side frame.

With that much cyl ring I'm sure it's been fired. And/or it has a very rough cyl stop like most do, and could use a polish on the top surface of the stop.