A question for our forum Machinists/Woodworkers:

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CoMF

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I'm looking to make a perfectly square (flat) end on a beech wood walking stick in preparation for the addition of a brass ferrule. What would be the appropriate cutting bit to use on a rotary lathe? The stick dia. is a smidge over 3/4" (~.760") and I don't intend to take off more than 1/16". I have access to the necessary tools and equipment at work during my breaks.

Open Disclosure: I have exactly zero machining experience, but I'll be careful. I promise. :o
 
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Me, I'd probably put a nice fine cut blade in the old Craftsman 12" table saw. I made a special miter gauge that'd support both sides.
Then I'd clamp the stick with a hunk of sacrificial wood to back it up and prevent tear out.
Crank up my saw and make the cut.

Or, one thing that I've done to flush up an end before, was to take it to my upright stationary disc and use a miter gauge to get it to 90 degrees.
 
The above being said--- if you find it a tad too small, just make a couple slivers of the wood then hammer them a bit, compressing the shim. Install,after you coat the stick end with a bit of glue them press the shim into place-- the shim will expand for a really tight fit, them allow to dry--excess glue can easily be removed. Have done this for handcut dovetails my whole life. JMHO as it has always worked for me. :)
 
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Excellent responses from all. Thank you. :)

The saw/sanding disc option was something I overlooked because of my lack of confidence in making perfectly square cuts, but you reminded me of the benefit of using miter gauges. :p

In any case, the aforementioned two options are indeed way easier than chucking the stick in a lathe.

Any recommendations on a good, impact resistant glue that will allow fairly easy replacement of the ferrule when needed?
 
Have one of those as well and I keep a can of Acetone on the bench for assorted uses. One good use is removing the residue from removed labels and removing Sharpie marks when containers are reused. :) In fact, I just had to buy a new can last week. :)
 
You know... In hindsight, I'm asking myself why I went and bought something pre-made that I now want to "customize" to make it my own, when I could've just spent a little more to get the same components and had them machined/assembled the exact way I wanted them. (There are places that do this for a modest fee.)

Heck, I could've got an unfinished cane shaft in the diameter I wanted and Tru-Oiled it instead of living with a somewhat underwhelming stain and varnish on the one I already have. I'm sure the finish quality would've been leagues better, too.

*Sigh* The things you learn -after- you've already spent money... :(
 
Well.......I for one like the idea of turning the end off in a lathe. I've done this for wood doweling in my metal lathe for years. A couple of hints; wrap the wood cane stick with at least two layers of common brown paper sack paper where the chuck jaws are going to grip. Support the far end of the cane with a three-way screw support screwed on the far end of the lathe arbor so that it won't flop around. Turn the stick at a high rate of speed. And your tool should be a very sharp "V" shaped tool turned into the wood face so that it has a divergence angle of not more than 10 degrees. Get one of the shop machinist to supervise you and it will go slick and fast. Hardwood 'turns' very well in a metal lathe if you turn it as fast as possible and the cutting tool is very sharp and while making very shallow cuts. ..............
 
When it comes to woodworking I never use a power tool when a hand tool will suffice. But that's just me, I LOVE hand tools. A miter saw and box would work nicely.
 
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For you 'Miter Box Advocates', consider that most cane shafts are tapered. How are you going to handle that in the miter box? Yes, it can be done, but not without a lot of work and figuring. ...........
 
Rastoff,

Square cut. The end diameter doesn't require any sanding or machining down to accept the ferrule.

Big Cholla,

A lathe was just the ticket. I slid a length of 1" I.D. hose around the shaft to prevent marring and did exactly what you said. Took about 10 minutes, came out perfect and there was no burning of the wood. Thanks! :)
 
A fine tooth blade on a chop saw is probably going to give you a flatter and more true edge than you can get by sanding. Reason is that assuming your chop saw is set correctly, it's at exactly 90º whereas you could never get that exact angle by hand sanding. After a perfectly flat edge has been achieved, you can use 1200 grit sandpaper to give a slight chamfer and avoid splintering.
 
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