Howdy there, I'm seriously considering buying a Chiefs Special Model 36. It's a nickel model, a bit rusty but locks up nice and serial number 58XXX (1955 i think). I was looking for a newer snubby Airweight but I found this one in my area for $350. I hope that a little flitz polish will clean it up. Also they are hard to buy in california, so I'm adding that to the math. Sadly, it's a square butt which I'm not too happy about. Should I pull the proverbial trigger or just find a pre lock airweight? I'll post pics if and when i buy it.
Advice on a Chiefs Special Model 36
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DWalt
Member
Your dating is about right. I'd go for it if it's in good operable condition. What's wrong with the square butt? I think it's preferable to the round butt, but possibly slightly less concealable.
From 1955, it should be a pre-Model 36.
From 1955, it should be a pre-Model 36.
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A sq butt on that early of a gun is not too plentiful and neither are nickel examples.
Is it actually stamped Mod 36 in the yoke hinge, or just looks like one? It would not be stamped if made before about 1958.
If the rust is such that you think you can clean it up, that's not a bad price if the nickel is factory original. Look for an N under barrel and under grip on left side of grip frame to verify an original factory plated gun. The hammer and trigger should not be plated, but rather color case hardened.
Is it actually stamped Mod 36 in the yoke hinge, or just looks like one? It would not be stamped if made before about 1958.
If the rust is such that you think you can clean it up, that's not a bad price if the nickel is factory original. Look for an N under barrel and under grip on left side of grip frame to verify an original factory plated gun. The hammer and trigger should not be plated, but rather color case hardened.
hotrod150
Member
I'd much rather have a vintage Chief than a newish j-frame of any model. I have 5 Chiefs, all with pinned barrels.
As I recall, it does have "36" inside the yoke hinge and it's definitely a case hardened hammer. I'd have to look under the grips again. I'm buying it from an ornery but friendly antiques dealer who found it in a storage unit and has kept it as an unused backup to his other chiefs special. I'm no expert, but the lockup side to side and front to rear is really tight compared to my 70's model 19. Cylinder alignment appears good. The trigger is sweeet. It has a lot of dust in the barrel, and finish appears 75%-80%. There is a bit of visible rust and spatterings of black corroded nickel. I don't think the seller has even tried to flitz it or clean it well. I think I can improve the finish but it will be a packin huntin backup pistol.
I'm going to try to shoot a few rounds before i buy it. I'm kinda expecting to have to detail strip and scrub the internals before i trust it as a defense gun. I replaced a hand spring and cleaned my Model 19 to fix a timing issue. Is it harder to work on J-Frames or K-frames? I have the Kuhnhausen book and correct screw drivers.
Will this thing be safe for ocassional +P use? I'm thinking some of those snubbie loads like that Hornady Critical Defense and Buffalo Bore LSWCHP (Regular or +P).
As for the square butt, it just seem to afford less options than a round butt which can use square butt grips, especially for pocket carry. The gun includes a set of hideous but functional pachmayrs and the seller claims he's got the original grips somewhere. I still haven't see them but imagine they sting like nobodies business. Any recommendations on grips that won't break the bank?
If it's going to be shot much and carried a lot I would clean it up the best I could after buying it and not worry about it. I have a blued model Chiefs Special Model pre 36 and mine was made in 1952 and it's a sweet shooter and has a wonderful trigger. On the pre models my gunsmith told me to use 125 grain +p rounds only for defense purposes and shoot 158 grain bullets for practice range shooting. He said the 125 grain +P could damage my gun if they were shot a lot out of it. Now if your is model marked it and made in 1958 it may have better heat treating and be able to handle the plus +P rounds.
Ahhh the plot thickens! It turns out I was looking at the number on the insider of the crane yoke. The number on the bottom of the butt 5J6XXX. Does that mean its from 1970ish? Does that mean it can shoot +Ps? How does that effect the quality?
That serial # bumps it up to 1972.
Only J frames that are marked +P are officially for +P loads. However, for guns not marked the damage is cumulative, not cataclysmic. In other words a very few rounds in practice to experience the recoil and loaded with +Ps when carrying for serious social work is OK in a modern Mod 36.
Quality is no different. Desirability strictly from a collector's point of view is slightly less, that's all.
Only J frames that are marked +P are officially for +P loads. However, for guns not marked the damage is cumulative, not cataclysmic. In other words a very few rounds in practice to experience the recoil and loaded with +Ps when carrying for serious social work is OK in a modern Mod 36.
Quality is no different. Desirability strictly from a collector's point of view is slightly less, that's all.
hotrod150
Member
I really like boot grips on my j-frames. Unfortunately no one seems to make them for the SB, with the exception of Craig Spegel-- long lead time and/or rather expensive, but really nice. Pachmayr Compacs or magnas plus a grip adapter is probably the best bet.
That price seems pretty good for a nickel Chief if it'd clean up OK. I sold a RB nickel Chief not long ago for $500, but it was in pretty nice shape.
That price seems pretty good for a nickel Chief if it'd clean up OK. I sold a RB nickel Chief not long ago for $500, but it was in pretty nice shape.
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