Advice on Combat Magnum Problem

[Beauetienne]

I've come into this '56. It had many light strike problems along with rough, hesitant trigger reset problems. Both single and double pulls were lighter than any of my Smiths. All the seller disclosed was that a target hammer had been added to it and other, undiscloed work had been done.
I replaced the mainspring with a standard pull Wolff spring and replaced the trigger return spring with an 15lb spring. The sear spring was anemic. I replaced it also.
I lightly stoned the trigger return slide contact surfaces along the frame area area around it and the area it rides on.
Also added trigger and hammer shims (.002) due to shake in both.
Reassembled and found a much improved trigger travel feel and rebound. Double action smooth and functioning nicely on the bench. Single action pull remains a problem.
When slowly pulling the trigger in SA the trigger binds with the hammer rather than releasing completely. The trigger rides back into position only as the hammer drops with it. A quick pull of the trigger in SA doesn't cause this and drops the hammer and resets normally.
When working the action slowly in SA with the side plate off I can see and feel, some slight roughness and binding between hammer and trigger contact points.
If some stoning is required (not sure) I'm not sure which part's contact point I should do.
Advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

 

[chief38]

It sounds to me that you unfortunately bought into a "Bubba Gun". Without having it in front of me it sounds like your engagement surfaces have been messed with and no longer interact properly. By shimming you might have slightly changed how they trigger/hammer interact and that could be caused by improper stoning of the bearing surfaces on the engagement points.

You could try removing the shims and see how that works. If that does not make your Revolver function properly, I'd bring it to a qualified and recommended Gun Smith. From here it sort of sounds like the previous owner tried to "improve things" and did not know what he was doing. I hate to say it, but you might be in the market for a new hammer & trigger if a GS can not repair the present ones.

I am just sort of guessing here because I can not see, feel and operate the Revolver and I sincerely hope I am wrong. You also might want to contact the seller and question him, inform him of your woes and ask if he will take Revolver back or pay for repairs because of the hidden issues. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[Beauetienne]

Continues...

Good advice on the shims chief38. I started by taking them out and although I didn't measure hammer and trigger to the frame, they still feel loose to me. I tried with just the cylinder release side and the with only the other side. By using the shims on only the cylinder release side both hammer and trigger centered nicely, but the hammer/trigger release problem persisted.
Trigger to frame clearance is a uniform .025" while the hammer clearance in uniform at .015". Pull feels smoother.
I again picked up the fine hard Arkansas stone and made sure I had a nicely polished surface on some areas of travel that I had not done the first time around. A good bit more was needed as she is now functioning as she should.
Double action and single pull were appx 6.5 lbs and 1.5lbs when I started. They are now appx 8.5lbs and 2.5lbs.
I installed an extended McMaster strain screw to slightly increase the single action pull, but the hammer/trigger follow problem showed back up so I reverses that decision.
I may try it with out any shims now that the extra polishing has been done, but I do plan on using it as a target shooter only. Two of my 686-3's came from the factory at 2.5lbs and I'm OK with that.
I'll do some test firing in the next day or two. All my 38 loads have CCI primers and I'm hopefull (even though they are tough).
All in all, I'm enjoying the process.
I'll post when I know more.
A pic is enclosed although I probably posted one when I got her. The diamond magnas it came with are tucked away for safekeeping.
Thanks.

 

[Beauetienne]

I think I have it down to hammer malfunction and I ordered a specific K Frame, model 15 hammer on Ebay, but what arrived looks to me more like an L Frame hammer. The hammer firing pin won't clear the frame and fall. Maybe I just need an old model hammer and the arrival isn't it.
Can someone identify the part?
The new hammer is the darker one with the thin thumb piece. The firing pin is sprung.
TIA

 

[minconrevo]

S&W uses the same hammer series for all their models of a specific frame size and time generation. You may have choices of hammer spur width and material (hard chromed SS or surfaced hardened regular steel). Also a few single action only, from the factory, in K frame; pretty rare to run across these.

Now comes the interesting part which is what will run well in your particular revolver. Width, single action sear configuration, DA fly, and spring behind firing pin (or not) are common factors in functioning really well or not. If you have several hammers to pick from and can try fit them, you may well find one that works "just right". That's assuming that the rest of the gun hasn't been tinkered with or was badly out of spec to begin with.

I look at any used revolver with buggered up side plate screws with a very jaundiced eye. Not so much if its just the screw for the cylinder only.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Looks like an L frame hammer to me. Notice how the back of the new hammer is taller than the old one above the spur.

 

[Beauetienne]

Looks like an L frame hammer to me. Notice how the back of the new hammer is taller than the old one above the spur.

Yes Sir. Here's a better look. The seller has agreed to accepting this return.
Thanks.

 

[mscampbell2734]

Bro your not listening.

Minconrevo has it right. Hammers are hammers. The issue is what series/time frame your hammer is from. Just because the used hammer came from a M15 does NOT mean it will fit your gun. A 1995 hammer will not work in a 1965 gun, too many changes.

Also as far as how it looks, remember hammers come in color case hardened, flash chrome, service, semi-target, and target. Bottom line make sure of what your buying.

 

[Beauetienne]

Bro your not listening.

Minconrevo has it right. Hammers are hammers. The issue is what series/time frame your hammer is from. Just because the used hammer came from a M15 does NOT mean it will fit your gun. A 1995 hammer will not work in a 1965 gun, too many changes.

Also as far as how it looks, remember hammers come in color case hardened, flash chrome, service, semi-target, and target. Bottom line make sure of what your buying.

Bro, your ARE not listening.I appreciate you taking to time to repeat someone else's advice, but I've got it. Thank You Sir.