I just acquired a mint condition 15-3 DOB 1969. I want to carry this for defensive purposes and was curious if you folks recommend shooting +P. If I can, what are the recommendations? If it is not advisable then what are your recommendations. I can reload but prefer factory for defense unless overwhelming opinion is otherwise.
Ammo choices for 15-3 4"
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Doug.38PR
Member
Mine is made in 1971 and I shoot +P ammo through it all the time (when I can afford it of course).
I got it straight from S&W that any K frame revolver made after 1956 (when they went from model names to model numbers, in your case: Combat Masterpiece to Model 15) is safe for +P. A lot of guys in here will shoot it through old M&Ps made back in the 30s and 40s.
It is safe for you. BUT a steady died will cause the gun to wear faster than normal use of standard .38s just because it is that much more pressure and velocity. Likely if it ever does shoot loose all you will have to do is have the cylinder tightened.
Shoot and carry +Ps all you want. I even have a thread going on in here talking about Buffalo Bore's near magnum level +P velocity loads (which has faster velocity but equal pressure of average +P factory loads)
As for ammo recommendations, I suggest Remington's .38 Spl+P 158 gr. Lead Semiwadcutter Hollowpoint (LHP) also known as "The FBI Load"
I would also recommend looking at www.buffalobore.com and getting their version of this round for a backup reload in case you need something a little closer to a .357 magnum in power.
I got it straight from S&W that any K frame revolver made after 1956 (when they went from model names to model numbers, in your case: Combat Masterpiece to Model 15) is safe for +P. A lot of guys in here will shoot it through old M&Ps made back in the 30s and 40s.
It is safe for you. BUT a steady died will cause the gun to wear faster than normal use of standard .38s just because it is that much more pressure and velocity. Likely if it ever does shoot loose all you will have to do is have the cylinder tightened.
Shoot and carry +Ps all you want. I even have a thread going on in here talking about Buffalo Bore's near magnum level +P velocity loads (which has faster velocity but equal pressure of average +P factory loads)
As for ammo recommendations, I suggest Remington's .38 Spl+P 158 gr. Lead Semiwadcutter Hollowpoint (LHP) also known as "The FBI Load"
I would also recommend looking at www.buffalobore.com and getting their version of this round for a backup reload in case you need something a little closer to a .357 magnum in power.
MaineProbation
Member
Just to set your mind at ease: The difference between standard .38 special and +P .38 special is much less than the difference between any .38 special and .357 magnum. Contrary to some popular belief, a .38 special +P is no where near .357 magnum pressures. I have personally chronographed .38 special +P loads which were not as fast as corresponding bullet weights .38 special standard loads from back in the 1960's when fired in the same revolver. When our department was using Model 15 2" snubs for our officers, we used to buy lead semi-wadcutter 158 grain .38 reloads loaded to +P levels. So we used +P for both training and duty and never saw any excess wear or pressure problems.
Doug.38PR
Member
Were those acually standard .38 Spl or were they "Hi-Speed" or "Hi-Velocity"? I have a few boxes of those from the 60s that the guy who sold them to me were cocked at 950 ft per second out of a 4 inch barrel. A tad higher than modern +P of the same barrel lenght and bullet weight.
I've heard some say that "38 Spl standard back then was equal to +P today" and then others who respond "no that's not true"
MaineProbation
Member
These were standard factory .38 specials with 158 grain lead bullets. Back in the 1960's, the ammo makers were still making a 150 grain .38 special for the .38/44 revolvers. These were really hot, generally running around 1050 ft per second out of a 4 inch.
Doug.38PR
Member
Amazing. That's even slower than the modern Buffalo Bore 158 grain that I reference above. They are clocked at close to 1200 ft per second.
http://www.buffalobore.com/ind...product_detail&p=108
But then buffalo bore is safely within +P parameters using a more modern powder forumula that doesn't generate +P+ pressures
http://www.buffalobore.com/ind...product_detail&p=108
But then buffalo bore is safely within +P parameters using a more modern powder forumula that doesn't generate +P+ pressures
Plus-P will be fine in your gun. However, if I had a truly mint 15-3, I would take it to the range every now and then, but keep it in the safe otherwise. Down here, we tend to sweat a lot, and the humidity tends to run very high for about 6 to 8 months. It is almost impossible to keep a gun you carry regularly in pristine condition without at least wiping it down five or six times a day. Others will disagree with me and say to carry the gun, because that is what God and Smith & Wesson intended. They are correct to a certain extent, but when I get hold of one like that, I tend to try to keep it "near mint."
Now, if it actually does have a little holster wear, and a well-defined turn line, then go for it. It isn't a collector gun at all in that shape, and good care will keep it useful doing what it was intended to do for a lifetime.
Doug.38PR
Member
Okay, I have conflicting figures here from Bill Jordon's 1965 book No Second Place Winners.
He clocks standard .38 Spl 158 gr at 855 ft per second out of a 6 inch barrel
Then he clocks .38 Spl 158 gr Hi Speed at 1,085 ft per second out of a 6 inch barrel.
You are clocking even higher out of a 4 inch
These figures are lower than what you have clocked during the same time period. Are you sure those were standard 38 Spl? Can you offer any explaination?
