Another WAD Cutter Issue

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I am loading Berrys 38 caliber 148gr, double ended, plated, wad cutters using Winchester 244. I bought some used 357 brass of different head stamps off line.

When I load 38 brass I have no problem getting the rounds into the cylinder and they shoot fine. However, when I load 357 I have problems getting the rounds to chamber in the cylinder. Some rounds go in fine until the primer end of the round and then there is a slight bulge that I have to really push to get the bullet in. Some are a little too large at the bullet end.

Do I have a brass problem or a die problem? Again, the 38 is just fine. It's the 357 brass I am having a problem with.
 
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I think that your mixes brass may be the issue. Some brands may just be thicker than other brands. You should also check your case length. Some cases may just be longer and thus crimping too much (bulged) when in your crimping die. See the last proviso on your crimping die at the bottom.

I guess my first step would be to see if it is the same brand that is causing the issue.

Next step would be to see if you bullets are all .358" or smaller. Perhaps the plating of the bullets has been inconsistent, although I doubt that that is causing the issue.

Third step would be to measure the outside diameter of your cases and compare to the internal diameters of ALL of your charge holes. Perhaps one is tighter than the others.

Finally and probably the most likely culprit: I'd check your roll crimp to see if it is bulging out from a crimping die that is set too far down in your press.
 
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Working on same kinda problem, Berry's 148 DEWC plated in 38spl, the cases seem to be the problem with me, when I load Starline brass, they look great, with no bulge and shoot great, not the same with mixed brass, I measure the bullets at .3575 and with the slightest crimp, just enough to pass the plunk test in a 38spl gauge, Going to try loading some in 357 Starline brass too
 
If your cyliner is clean..........

it is the "Mixed cases" that are causing the problem.

You need to seperate them into groups, by maker and then see what die
settings will be needed for that bullet to work in any gun, that you use.

Some of us have very "Used" or "Sloppy" revolvers that will eat anything
but "Tight" cylinders need fine tuning.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info Scharfschuetzer!! I did measure the outer diameter of some of the casings but not the length nor inside diameter. Good call on the crimping die. I will definitely check that as well. It is good to hear that I am not the only one this has happened to......lol.
I was definitely going to get some Starline but they are out of stock.

Good info from both of you and many many thanks!
 
Have you checked the depth of your sizing die from 38 Spl. to .357 Mag? Perhaps .357 Mag. cases are not getting full length sizing?
 
If your cyliner is clean..........

it is the "Mixed cases" that are causing the problem.

You need to seperate them into groups, by maker and then see what die
settings will be needed for that bullet to work in any gun, that you use.

Some of us have very "Used" or "Sloppy" revolvers that will eat anything
but "Tight" cylinders need fine tuning.

Good luck.

I believe I have a tight stainless gun even though it was a LEO trade in. Bought from Guns.com and is in super shape. Thanks for the tips.....I will definitely use them.
 
Have you checked the depth of your sizing die from 38 Spl. to .357 Mag? Perhaps .357 Mag. cases are not getting full length sizing?

i actually have two Lee die 38/357 sets so I can leave one set for 28 and the other for 357. I will definitely check the sizing die on the 357. I should be able to size the brass after depriming and then see if the case works smoothly in the cylinder before I go any farther?
 
I recall reading that 357 brass has, or should have thicker walls than 38. Logical, since it has to handle 2X the pressure.
 
Any time there is a fit issue, measure. Measure the offending round's OD in several places. Near the case head, often a sizing issue. Measure the case OD before sizing then after each step to see when it occurs. Make sure your sizing die is going all the way down.

I have loaded thousands of 38 Special and 357 Magnum "once fired" brass with none of the mentioned problems, even with oversize cast bullets, and there isn't enough difference in case wall thickness, by itself, to cause chambering problems.

BTW early on in my reloading I sectioned some 38 Special cases and some 357 Magnum cases and checked wall an web thicknesses. Same. The 357 wall thickness stayed the same for the last .135"...
 
I have the bulging case problem often with DEWCs (double ended wadcutters) - especially with the plated ones. Even if cases are sorted by manufacturer, finish, and original application (i.e. bullet type) bulging crops up now and then. An easier solution is to use a Lee FCD (Factory Crimp Die) on the bumpy ones.
 
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Revolver or pistol ammo is just like rifle ammo, if only fired in the same gun.

Once the brass has been fired, I can get away with just a 90% sizing
to not over work the cases and still have enough friction on the bullet
in my 38, 357 and even 9mm cases.
It also helps if your expander is the correct size for the bullets being seated
and the I/D of the cases.

As mentioned, dies, guns and supplies must "Mesh" in order to work, correctly.
 
with brass fired in different chambers sometimes they have been fired in a chamber that leaves a bulge after sizing. I was loading for a Smith 66 that ate everything. Then when trying to use that brass in a Python the carbide ring in the sizing die just wouldn't go down far enough to remove the bulge in some pieces of brass. I bet if you can buy some new factory brass and shoot it in your gun there would be no problem. sort out the bulged rounds and shoot those in a larger chambered gun.
 
Cases??????????????

I had this problem with a 610 in shooting bowling pins! Some would chamber and some would "almost" chamber! When seating the lead bullet some would produce a slight bulge in the brass. My solution was to remove the recapping pin on a sizing die and place it in the last station of my 550B. So, the last thing that happened to the round was to resize it loaded!
jcelect
 
Have you checked the depth of your sizing die from 38 Spl. to .357 Mag? Perhaps .357 Mag. cases are not getting full length sizing?

^This was my first thought. I use the same set of dies for 38 and 357. When loading 357 there is a metal ring you add for 357 to raise the die to 357 length. The ring is needed for flaring case mouths and seating, but if you don't remove it for sizing, the cases won't be sized the entire length. If you are using the same thing, just try removing that ring when sizing the 357 cases.
 
Been reloading since about 75, bought a RCBS wad cutter seating die found at a show years ago. IIRC have 3 sets of .357 Mag. dies, even 1 RCBS thats just for .357 Mag. Last 30 years bought Carbide dies and have one set just for 38 Spl.
 
I definitely have had bulges in 357 cases with heavy boolits seated deep. It's the thicker case walls.
 
I had this problem with a 610 in shooting bowling pins! Some would chamber and some would "almost" chamber! When seating the lead bullet some would produce a slight bulge in the brass. My solution was to remove the recapping pin on a sizing die and place it in the last station of my 550B. So, the last thing that happened to the round was to resize it loaded!
jcelect

I may give that a shot as well. I have two sets of 38/357 dies so I can place in the #4 space as I do not use the factory crimp die on my pistol reloads..thanks
 
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