Any benefit to having sights professionally zeroed in by a gunsmith?

cp2146

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I have three semi-autos. A Beretta PX4 Storm Compact, a M&P 40 Shield, and a Bodyguard 380. All three have the sights set as they came from the factory. I'm considering taking all three to a gunsmith to have the sights zeroed in. Is this a good idea or should I just learn to shoot them as they are currently sighted?
 
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If sighted in by someone else, they still may not shoot right for you. It depends on whether the other person holds the gun very similar to your way, including grip strength, hand position, size of hands, etc. The gun recoils differently depending on these variables, thus affecting point of impact.

A better solution might be to buy a sight pusher and do them yourself. That would probably be cheaper and provide more satisfactory results.
 
I have three semi-autos. A Beretta PX4 Storm Compact, a M&P 40 Shield, and a Bodyguard 380. All three have the sights set as they came from the factory. I'm considering taking all three to a gunsmith to have the sights zeroed in. Is this a good idea or should I just learn to shoot them as they are currently sighted?

Hard to offer advice without knowing what problem you're trying to solve with each gun.
 
Also consider that your pistols will only be sighted in for the ammunition used to sight them. That would be ok if you never change your carry ammunition but if you do change, it may or may not shoot to the same point of impact. If you're lucky, it may be close enough but maybe not. This would be especially true if you change bullet weighs.

Your pistols are not target guns and are probably good enough for self defense as is. How far off are they now at what range?
 
Having someone else zero in the sights only means it will shoot to point of aim for him, not necessarily you. Recently went out with my brother and shot the M&P he uses when shooting IPSC matches. He could thread a needle with it, it always shot low and to left left when I shot it.
 
Bad Idea

I have three semi-autos. A Beretta PX4 Storm Compact, a M&P 40 Shield, and a Bodyguard 380. All three have the sights set as they came from the factory. I'm considering taking all three to a gunsmith to have the sights zeroed in. Is this a good idea or should I just learn to shoot them as they are currently sighted?

As stated, it is a bad idea as it will not sight the guns in for you or the ammo you are using. The gunsmith will get everything close, but not exact for you. Also, "learning to shoot as is" is also a bad idea. Sights should be regulated by you for your eyesight and your ammo and your grip. YOU need to learn how to do all that for your guns. It is only part of good responsible gun ownership. Have that gunsmith TEACH you how to do your sighting in for yourself!
 
Oh, okay. I guess I thought they placed the gun in a stationary jig of some kind to hold it steady to get a precise sight. My problem is that I could do it, but I don't have the proper tools. I don't want to go beating on them with a hammer and a screwdriver to move the sights. If there is a procedure for this, I'm all ears. Thanks.
 
There are several ways to move sights that work very well.

The most popular is one that's been used forever, and is used by many/most professional gunsmiths.

That method is a small hammer and a brass or hard nylon drift.
Brass works best and if it leave brass marks, just use a copper solvent to remove it.

I made my brass drifts from 1"x1/2"x6" brass bar stock.
The much larger size prevented the drift from bending or flexing like small ones can./
Another good option is a section of larger brass bar stock which most hardware stores carry.
With either you can file the end of the drift to better fit the sight.
To use, remove the slide, wrap in tape or a layer of cloth to prevent scratching, and lay it on a FIRM surface.
A couple of pages of newspaper on a concrete floor works very well with the wrapped slide.

Where most people make the mistake is in trying to move the sights at the range while the slide is still on the frame.
Often you see them holding the gun against a wood stand and beating on it.
To work, the slide has to be off and on a FIRM surface that has no "give".

Second method is the automatic center punch.
Years ago someone sold one of these but are long out of business.
To make one, buy a cheap automatic center punch at a hardware or auto store.

Have someone brass braze a glob of brass to the end off the punch.
File it to shape.
To use, put the slide on a firm surface and press the punch against the sight until the punch "fires".
The impact will most almost any sight.
You can regulate how far the sight moves by adjusting the punch.

So, beating on the sight really is the preferred method unless you own an expensive sight pusher that will fit your specific slide.
Since even most professional gunsmiths don't own one of these high dollar sight pushers, most all of them use the brass drift and small hammer.

Again, the trick is using a large brass drift that won't bend or flex, and having the slide off the frame and on a firm no-give, no bounce surface.
 
Everyone sees open sights differently and for someone else to set your sights through their eyes is a waste. Before you go adjusting your sights make sure the guns are shooting CONSISTENTLY. Even if they are off for you they SHOULD shoot all rounds into nice tight groups. If you have open groups then it ain't just the sights. If you can shoot nice tight groups just not to where you want them (in the bullseye) then bring the gun and targets to a person who is familiar with adjusting them. Re-shoot at the same distance with the same ammo and see if that improves things.

That said, USUALLY the Factory sight settings are NOT too far off and USUALLY only require a slight tweaking assuming you are using ammo that is of typical weight, charge and design. Since you are talking about several different guns it may be your technique more than the sights themselves but without being there and seeing the targets it's impossible to tell.
 
Get yourself a couple of sandbags. Best& cheapest are the standard old canvas 25 lb shot bags. Know anyone that is a shotgun reloader? They probably have a stack of them. Fill 90% with sand or similar media, (I use old worn out corn cob tumbling media, it is lighter than sand). Sew the open closed. Make up 3 of them. Shoot off a bench rest, resting the "frame", of the gun, not the barrel or the butt. With a revolver put something (I use a piece of leather) over the top bag so the BC gap flame won't cut into the canvas bag. You will quickly develop the ability to shoot groups that your gun is capable of. The bad thing is I could never equal those groups offhand, darn it.
 
Everyone sees open sights differently and for someone else to set your sights through their eyes is a waste. Before you go adjusting your sights make sure the guns are shooting CONSISTENTLY. Even if they are off for you they SHOULD shoot all rounds into nice tight groups. If you have open groups then it ain't just the sights. If you can shoot nice tight groups just not to where you want them (in the bullseye) then bring the gun and targets to a person who is familiar with adjusting them. Re-shoot at the same distance with the same ammo and see if that improves things.

I agree with more with the statement above than the statement below. Tight groups not on point of aim suggest either:

1) you are a decent shot who is doing everything right and the sights are actually off; or

2) you have a flaw in your technique - but are very consistent with it (i.e. you put too much finger on the trigger and pull the shot to the right consistently every shot, or you tighten your grip just before or as the shot breaks and put the rounds slightly low and left).

If sighted in by someone else, they still may not shoot right for you. It depends on whether the other person holds the gun very similar to your way, including grip strength, hand position, size of hands, etc. The gun recoils differently depending on these variables, thus affecting point of impact.

This is all true, but more often than not it reflects flaws in the shooter's technique. If this wasn't the case you'd seldom if ever see fixed sights on a handgun. They work well most of the time, provided the shooter knows that he is doing.

You will see variation with factory fixed sights as they are often regulated for the recoil of a specific load. For example, most .38 Specials shoot to point of aim with full power 158 gr loads and will shoot low with loads using lighter 110, 125 and 130 gr bullets

You may also see some minor right of left windage error on revolvers due to the barrel not being perfectly timed and/or not being perfectly aligned in the frame, both of which move the front sight slightly. If you've got a revolver that shoots excessively right or left, send it back to the factory. They'll most likely mount it in a fixture and then rap it with a mallet to tweak it a bit. It's not a technique for the non-expert.

---

Unless you really are a good enough shooter to eliminate #2 above as an option, you are better off having another very good pistol shooter shoot it and give his or her opinion before you blame the sights.

If not, you may find that if your pistol was shooting to the left "because the sights were off", once you develop a better and more consistent grip, the pistol will now be shooting to the right - and you'll be tempted to claim the sights moved. ;)

better solution might be to buy a sight pusher and do them yourself. That would probably be cheaper and provide more satisfactory results.

For pistols with drift adjustable sights this is the best way to go - once you've eliminated shooter error.

You can be much more precise in the adjustment with a sight pusher. Also, if you have a set of calipers, are not math impaired, and know how far off center your groups are at a known distance, you can calculate exactly how much you need to drift the rear sight to get the center of the group on point of aim, make a single adjustment and just verify it on the target.
 
Wow! Great advice on all points by everyone. Thanks. I'm leaning toward it being my technique more than the sights being off, as I'm getting "okay" groups, just a tad low and left. It's consistent with all three guns. That tells me it's not the sights. I will work on improving technique (stance, grip, etc) and see if I can't center the grouping on the bullseye.
 
Can you have someone else shoot your gun?

My groups go low left when I start "anticipating" the shot just before it goes off.

Also, you can raise your groups with heavier bullets. Counter intuitive I know.
 
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