This is long.
If you are interested in practicing “Fast Draw” with an autoloader, please study the following video:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYvAxLX6OzE[/ame]
If you are interested in practicing “Fast Draw” with a double action revolver, please continue reading.
I bought Bill Jordan’s book “No Second Place Winner” about 5 years ago. I think the chapters on open carry, double action revolver, fast draw are invaluable and the information in those chapters is not to be found anywhere else that I am aware of.
Using Jordan’s book as an ever present guide, I have been working on perfecting my double action revolver fast draw for about 4 years. The first 3 years of that time were spend trying (and ultimately rejecting) various holsters, belts, grips, holster positions, holster cants and draw strokes. We are all slightly different physically from each other, so what works good for me may need to be modified somewhat for you. Here is what I have found that works for me:
1. Economy of the revolver’s movement is critical. A draw stroke that moves the revolver twice as far (when compared to an alternate draw stroke) will make your total draw time approximately twice as long (when compared to the time of the alternate draw stroke).
2. Jordan is right, once you begin your draw movement, don’t stop the movement or change the general direction of the movement because doing so will increase your total draw time. Don’t stop your draw stroke to grip the revolver; instead, pick it up on the way by during your draw stroke.
3. Jordan is right, don’t stop at the end of your draw stroke and then pull the trigger because doing so will increase your total draw time. Instead, you should be pulling the trigger AS you are performing your draw stroke and the hammer should fall just as you come to the end of your draw stroke when the revolver has come on target.
4. Jordan is right, only hits count; fast noises don’t. If you find you are missing your target during practice, SLOW DOWN your draw to the point where you are hitting consistently. Once you are hitting consistently, then you can begin to SLOWLY increase the speed of your draw. Remember, it takes thousands of rounds of practice to perfect your draw stroke. The following saying is true: slow equals smooth; smooth equals fast; fast equals accurate.
5. I only use 4” barreled S&W stainless double action revolvers (a 66, a 627 Pro and a 617) . I am convinced I am far less likely to blow my foot off during live ammo practice using a double action revolver, than using an autoloader or a single action revolver (with the single action “cock in the holster while drawing and firing” technique). I also only use factory power springs that give me around an 11.5 to 12.0 lb double action trigger pull.
6. I use the Hogue Round Butt to Square Butt conversion grips (Hogue #: 19012); the ones without finger grooves. Jordan was right, a smooth grip without any finger grooves allows grip adjustment during the draw if you happen to get a less than perfect grip to begin with. I also like a square butt grip because the way it fits my hand forces the muzzle to point higher when the revolver is fired. Every wooden grip I have tried wears a hole in my skin in the web of my hand at the base of my thumb. The Hogues don’t.
7. I use a modified Blade Tech OWB holster ($65.00). I have modified it by cutting out the part that covers the trigger guard. As shown by the Border Patrol holster Jordan designed, my testing has proven to me that an open trigger guard is essential to developing a consistent and fast DA revolver draw. I use a Blade Tech 1.50” SR Loop for belt attachment ($12.95). I also use a modified Blade Tech D/OS drop loop ($12.95). I modify it by cutting out the supports at the bend, heating it with a heat gun and beating it flat. I then use it to attach the holster to the belt loop. The holster is mounted at a 45 degree angle to the drop loop.
8. My belt is a DeSantis E25 1.50” Econobelt Belt. Stiff, doesn’t sag and costs ~ $20.
9. I am right handed. Reverse the following if you are a lefty.
10. My holster placement is different than Jordan’s. I place my holster in front of my right hip at about 2 o’clock. When belting up, I thread my belt through my pants belt loops, going one by one on the left, then around my back and then through those belt loops on my right side. Before going through the last belt loop on my right front, I thread the belt through the back belt slot of the holster loop, then through the pants belt loop, then through the front belt slot of the holster loop and buckle up. Grip butt will be toward my right hip, the muzzle will be toward my mid line.
11. If I will be standing/walking, I grab the holstered revolver and pull the holster as far to my right as it will go; it will be stopped by the pants belt loop that is trapped between the belt slots in the holster loop. In this position, the grip doesn’t protrude outside of my body’s outline and this allows me to walk naturally, swinging my arms without interference from the holster or the revolver’s grip
12. If I am going to be seated or driving, I grab the holstered revolver and pull the holster as far to my left as it will go. Again, it will be stopped by the pants belt loop that is trapped between the belt slots in the holster loop. I can sit comfortably, make a fast draw and even buckle my seat belt, if driving, by passing the lap belt portion of the seat belt under the holster.
13. My draw stroke is also somewhat different than Mr. Jordan’s. I will explain it as best I can. Stand up straight. Don’t crouch or jump around during the draw. My hand is NOT on the revolver grip. With my right arm hanging straight down, I shoot my right elbow out to the right and toward the back. This lifts my arm and hand. Keeping my wrist locked, as my hand sweeps by the revolver, I grip it, being sure to place my finger into the trigger guard. Never stopping and continuing the motion of my elbow to the rear, I slam my right forearm into my side (just above the beltline) locking it in place, all the while pulling the trigger. Because my wrist is locked, as my forearm is finishing locking into place, the muzzle of my revolver crosses the target, the hammer falls and a hit is made.
14. For live fire practice, my target is a 12” round steel challenge plate mounted 4 feet high and placed anywhere from 4 feet to 10 feet in front of me. For dry fire practice, my target is any convenient inanimate object in my workroom.
Now for my times. This is being written in 2015, I turn 66 years old later this year and I am SLOW. When timing my live fire draws I use a Pact timer with a random count down that is worn on my belt on my left side. I activate the timer with my left hand. When I hear the beep, I draw with my right hand, fire (and hit). That is my time: reaction time + draw + fire (and hit). Again, my hand is NOT on the revolver grip when starting; my arm is hanging straight down. When I am in practice, my average time per shot for a cylinder full of shots is 0.52 seconds each. My fastest time (so far) is 0.44 seconds (hitting). I can tell you that when my times are in the 4’s, it happens faster than I can think, because the whole process is a surprise to me.
I would think someone who is in their late teens, or twenties, or even early thirties, would, with practice, have averages in the 3’s or even high 2’s.
Remember, all this comes with a "Big Boy" warranty.
A "Big Boy" warranty = "If you try this and anything goes wrong, well you're a big boy now and ..."
