I would be interested in actual use, results and thoughts, good bad or indifferent ..
I have used the Grinders, Steel, Stones, Ceramic's, all with good results, but this thing for whatever reason intrigues me
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Anybody tried the Worksharp Knife Sharpener??
- Thread starter ditrina
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I would be interested in actual use, results and thoughts, good bad or indifferent ..
I have used the Grinders, Steel, Stones, Ceramic's, all with good results, but this thing for whatever reason intrigues me
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ChattanoogaPhil
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I have this one. Works great.... as advertised.
kthom
Member
Have one, and it works, but does not get my knives as sharp as I like them. I especially like to use mine when I have a blade that needs reshaping of the sharpening angle to suit me. Then it will get me much closer to being able to get really sharp without spending a lot of time doing so.
Most of my blades are sharpened to the point where the two ceramic sharpeners sold by A.G. Russell are my choice to keep them that way. The small field sharpener has two diamond sticks if a blade is really abused. The other two sticks are ceramic but of a bit coarser texture that I use to follow the diamond stick. When I finish with these two, then I use the taller longer Ceramic sticks. The item numbers for these two sharpeners are #AG3750 and #CS94. Each has a platform to hold the sticks at the correct angle and all I have to do is hold the knife vertical as I move them down the sticks. The ceramic sticks are very high quality. I sometimes also use a razor strop if I really wish to finish off sharpening with a very fine edge.
This is just my preference for the kind of sharpening that I do. I'm glad I've got the worksharp, since it has it's place. For everyday sharpening, I use the sticks.
Most of my blades are sharpened to the point where the two ceramic sharpeners sold by A.G. Russell are my choice to keep them that way. The small field sharpener has two diamond sticks if a blade is really abused. The other two sticks are ceramic but of a bit coarser texture that I use to follow the diamond stick. When I finish with these two, then I use the taller longer Ceramic sticks. The item numbers for these two sharpeners are #AG3750 and #CS94. Each has a platform to hold the sticks at the correct angle and all I have to do is hold the knife vertical as I move them down the sticks. The ceramic sticks are very high quality. I sometimes also use a razor strop if I really wish to finish off sharpening with a very fine edge.
This is just my preference for the kind of sharpening that I do. I'm glad I've got the worksharp, since it has it's place. For everyday sharpening, I use the sticks.
Inusuit
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Received one as a gift. Prefer my oil stones.
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Nothing more than a Belt Sander with a multiple angle guide. Leaves a fair edge but nothing anyone proficient at hand sharpening on a good set of Arkansas Stones would accept as high quality.
I've had and still have a few of the gimmicky sharpening tools and jigs but years ago took the plunge and bought high quality medium, fine and extra fine high quality Arkansas Stones. They produce an edge that will blow away any machine edge and will last for ever - mine are 30 years old. Of course hand sharpening on Arkansas Stones takes a learned skill and it's something many can not achieve successfully, but if you've got the skill and the will to master it, there is no machine that will equal a finely honed edge!
PS: There are no A/C Outlets in trees or in the woods - LOL!
I've had and still have a few of the gimmicky sharpening tools and jigs but years ago took the plunge and bought high quality medium, fine and extra fine high quality Arkansas Stones. They produce an edge that will blow away any machine edge and will last for ever - mine are 30 years old. Of course hand sharpening on Arkansas Stones takes a learned skill and it's something many can not achieve successfully, but if you've got the skill and the will to master it, there is no machine that will equal a finely honed edge!
PS: There are no A/C Outlets in trees or in the woods - LOL!
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chaparrito
Member
I have found the two-wheel setup on a converted bench grinder to be the very best system I've ever used. Not as easy as the videos make it look, but I can put shaving sharp, glass polished edges on most any knife in maybe two minutes. With practice, it doesn't remove nearly as much material as I was concerned about when first starting. That one looks interesting, how pricey is it with Ken Onion's name on it?
OP
Big Cholla
Member
I started sharpening knives over 60 years ago using traditional methods. I then branched into sharpening all my cutting tools. Mostly I used oil stones and strops. I have used ceramic with success on a narrow design of blade. Then, I watched a demo of the Work Sharp Onion model sharpener at a gun show. I was impressed. I did some internet research and purchased the whole kit. I also purchased the whole range of belt grit gradients. That alone makes the results so remarkable that I have sold probably 5 or 6 Work Sharp Sharpeners by word-of-mouth in the last couple of years. First of all, for best results the user must follow the directions to the letter. The Work Sharp people with the help of Ken Onion designed this tool. They then wrote comprehensive directions. Use this tool the way they design it to be used and it is superb. ......
I hardly ever use anything else to put the desired edge on any type of blade that I select to use. The included angle of the cutting edge is adjustable. One needs to have a little knowledge of what is the optimum included angle for which the specific type of cutting the blade will be used. Then one needs to have a little knowledge of what is the optimum edge the intended use requires for optimum cutting. A 'straight razor' edge is not optimum for dressing out a Mule Deer or an Elk.
The foodstuffs that need to be cut in the average kitchen vary in 'best' edge requirement. My wife is not the most careful person in the use of cutting edges. I have no problem keeping her kitchen knives properly sharp by using my Work Sharp Sharpener and the proper grit belt. I sharpen my SAK once a week whether it needs it or not. I use one grit for the large blade and another finer grit for the small blade. My large clipped Spyderco with the half serrated edge/half cutting edge blade is sharpened with ceramics for the serrated edge and the Work Sharp for the cutting edge.
When making a new custom knife, I use the Ken Onion Attachment for the final shaping of the blade on the smaller knives. I am sold on this tool and now-a-days will use an oiled whetstone only on the rarest occasion.
I hardly ever use anything else to put the desired edge on any type of blade that I select to use. The included angle of the cutting edge is adjustable. One needs to have a little knowledge of what is the optimum included angle for which the specific type of cutting the blade will be used. Then one needs to have a little knowledge of what is the optimum edge the intended use requires for optimum cutting. A 'straight razor' edge is not optimum for dressing out a Mule Deer or an Elk.
The foodstuffs that need to be cut in the average kitchen vary in 'best' edge requirement. My wife is not the most careful person in the use of cutting edges. I have no problem keeping her kitchen knives properly sharp by using my Work Sharp Sharpener and the proper grit belt. I sharpen my SAK once a week whether it needs it or not. I use one grit for the large blade and another finer grit for the small blade. My large clipped Spyderco with the half serrated edge/half cutting edge blade is sharpened with ceramics for the serrated edge and the Work Sharp for the cutting edge.
When making a new custom knife, I use the Ken Onion Attachment for the final shaping of the blade on the smaller knives. I am sold on this tool and now-a-days will use an oiled whetstone only on the rarest occasion.
Maple Trapper
Member
I have the second one shown above, OK but not great. For the best edge I use Japanese water stones. I have a set of 2 double sided stones, the course is 400 grit, then 1000 on one stone and 2000 grit then 5000 grit on the second stone. If the blade is not quite what I like before using the 400 grit, I use the Worksharp first. The Japanese water stones put a truly super edge on a blade but it takes time and if you don't have an angle jig you must pay close attention to the angle you hold the blade to the stones. It likely takes 15-20 minutes to achieve a great edge, and then only if it was not real bad to start.
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doublesharp
Member
I've been considered the knife sharpener guy for 45 years. Always working with a knife in produce business and then part of my fishing guide service was cleaning the fish and when you have limit crappie days you'd better be good with a knife. My sharpening kit was arkansas stones of different hardness, a butcher steel, a ceramic rod and a diamond stick for touch ups along with assorted grinders and flappy discs for axes, mower blades. I'm good but it is a pain to take a rough edged knife and put a new bevel and get it just right by hand. I can do it but it's work.
First time I was ever in Smokey Mtn knife works they had a workman in the basement that was putting new edges on customers knives for a buck or two an edge. Took a couple minutes. I think I was carrying a stainless sodbuster with an average work edge. I got my money's worth. If I thought this Ken Onion workman would duplicate the SMKW edge I'd put one on my Christmas list.
First time I was ever in Smokey Mtn knife works they had a workman in the basement that was putting new edges on customers knives for a buck or two an edge. Took a couple minutes. I think I was carrying a stainless sodbuster with an average work edge. I got my money's worth. If I thought this Ken Onion workman would duplicate the SMKW edge I'd put one on my Christmas list.
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Here is a pretty good Youtube video on BOTH! It shows Pros & Cons.....
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shx_H58jX3w[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shx_H58jX3w[/ame]
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PS:
If you touch up a good knife regularly with a "Steel" it will only require sharpening a few times a year. I routinely sharpen my kitchen knives twice a year on my Arkansas Stones and it takes about 3 - 4 minutes per knife. I lightly steel my kitchen knives twice a week. They are SHAVING SHARP!!! They are Wusthof Classic's if anyone is interested.
My EDC Pocket knife gets sharpened about twice a year and stropped on my jeans once or twice a month or on my Leather strop when I am in my workshop. It is always sharp enough to shave hair off my arm and of course sharp enough to cut a perfect V-cut in a cigar!
I have two inexpensive "utilitarian" knives that I keep in the garage and shop for rough work and those I will use a belt or grinding wheel on but just so you know those are NOT super shaving sharp - but good enough to cut cardboard, rope, or what ever outdoors. Since they are cheap knives I don't care about them much and the belt or wheel grinder only puts what I deem a crude working edge on them. Personally I would NOT use an electric belt or grinder on my better knives - but that's just me. YMMV.
If you touch up a good knife regularly with a "Steel" it will only require sharpening a few times a year. I routinely sharpen my kitchen knives twice a year on my Arkansas Stones and it takes about 3 - 4 minutes per knife. I lightly steel my kitchen knives twice a week. They are SHAVING SHARP!!! They are Wusthof Classic's if anyone is interested.
My EDC Pocket knife gets sharpened about twice a year and stropped on my jeans once or twice a month or on my Leather strop when I am in my workshop. It is always sharp enough to shave hair off my arm and of course sharp enough to cut a perfect V-cut in a cigar!
I have two inexpensive "utilitarian" knives that I keep in the garage and shop for rough work and those I will use a belt or grinding wheel on but just so you know those are NOT super shaving sharp - but good enough to cut cardboard, rope, or what ever outdoors. Since they are cheap knives I don't care about them much and the belt or wheel grinder only puts what I deem a crude working edge on them. Personally I would NOT use an electric belt or grinder on my better knives - but that's just me. YMMV.
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I use the Ken Onion version. It's a great system but you need to start out on cheap knives because if you're not paying attention you can round a tip off. It produces a convex edge, which I prefer.
Spleenless Dave
Member
I have the standard Worksharp, not the KO edition, and use it on my kitchen knife set which is old and inexpensive and it does a decent job. I've used it on my Mom's knives and her neighbors when I've gone to visit, and they were happy with the edges. I wouldn't use it on my good pocket knives though, as I tried it once and rounded the end of the blade on a Leatherman Skeletool. I was not happy.
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Another "trick" I use is this.......
My EDC is a 2001 (USA MADE) Marbles Gladstone "Large Stockman" 3 blade knife. The larger (main blade) is used for general purpose cutting (Ropes, wood, etc) and kept very sharp. The smallest Sheeps-foot blade is razor shaving sharp and only used for fine tasks while the Clip Blade is what I use for heavy duty cutting and to cut cardboard which dulls blades fast. That blade is sharpened to a larger angle and is not quite as sharp but much more durable. It works for me
My EDC is a 2001 (USA MADE) Marbles Gladstone "Large Stockman" 3 blade knife. The larger (main blade) is used for general purpose cutting (Ropes, wood, etc) and kept very sharp. The smallest Sheeps-foot blade is razor shaving sharp and only used for fine tasks while the Clip Blade is what I use for heavy duty cutting and to cut cardboard which dulls blades fast. That blade is sharpened to a larger angle and is not quite as sharp but much more durable. It works for me
Fishslayer
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
I had one & sold it. If you're not careful you will round the tips of your knifes.
I got one of those four sided 200 - 600 grit diamond hones. Works fine for my purposes though if the right 1000 grit presented itself...
I got one of those four sided 200 - 600 grit diamond hones. Works fine for my purposes though if the right 1000 grit presented itself...
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BTW - something I just want to mention regarding knife blades.......
Depending on WHAT a particular knife is used for you might want to sharpen them to different spec's. I also have a good set of 8 Wusthof Steak knives that I only go to a fine Arkansas Stone with rather than going all the way up to the extra fine. I find that the slightly toothier blade cuts better for longer and doesn't ruin our plates as fast.
My outdoor "el cheapo" utility grade knives that I sharpen on a belt grinder or Bench Grinder work better for outdoor "crude work" than a finely sharpened knife. Those utility knives are routinely used in the garden and used for everything from cutting sprinkler line hose, weeds, cutting grass around the sprinkler heads, to prying cans opened etc. Getting a bit off subject here, but just wanted to pass that on. The machine in question (original post) would probably be great for that.
Depending on WHAT a particular knife is used for you might want to sharpen them to different spec's. I also have a good set of 8 Wusthof Steak knives that I only go to a fine Arkansas Stone with rather than going all the way up to the extra fine. I find that the slightly toothier blade cuts better for longer and doesn't ruin our plates as fast.
My outdoor "el cheapo" utility grade knives that I sharpen on a belt grinder or Bench Grinder work better for outdoor "crude work" than a finely sharpened knife. Those utility knives are routinely used in the garden and used for everything from cutting sprinkler line hose, weeds, cutting grass around the sprinkler heads, to prying cans opened etc. Getting a bit off subject here, but just wanted to pass that on. The machine in question (original post) would probably be great for that.
Fishslayer
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
I find that the slightly toothier blade cuts better for longer and doesn't ruin our plates as fast.
I don't like a super polished edge on my filet knifes either. I actually use one of those carbide "V" sharpeners a lot on those.
ChattanoogaPhil
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50 year old hunting knife.
Used as a pry bar, screw driver, throwing knife, left out to rust, chipped blade and reground, wire wheel to scrape off the rust.... just a few passes on my WorkSharp....
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giy9F6okSbE[/ame]
SAK... hardly used... after hours of my skilled sharpening with the best Arkansas stones!
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0VSHCKwj3w[/ame]
Used as a pry bar, screw driver, throwing knife, left out to rust, chipped blade and reground, wire wheel to scrape off the rust.... just a few passes on my WorkSharp....
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giy9F6okSbE[/ame]
SAK... hardly used... after hours of my skilled sharpening with the best Arkansas stones!
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0VSHCKwj3w[/ame]
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