Apex Tactical kit arriving. Anything to watch out for?

[loonybin]

My Apex Tactical Duty Carry Kit/trigger will arrive this weekend, and I plan on installing it as soon as it arrives and giving it a go since I have limited time to get to the range. I have watched the videos on their web site, but I would also like to hear real-world experiences of installing the kit. Is there anything I should watch out for? I don't have a sight pusher, but I do have a padded vise and lots of patience.

 

[whitsue]

Pay attention to what the videos say about removing the rear sight so you don't
let the hidden spring take off!

 

[Crmcdm]

I too watched the various videos available from Apex and others, and they served me well. I did it without a sight pusher- used brass and steel punches and a hammer and was able to get sights off. They are definitely a little stubborn. Pre-soaked with breakfree (I think), and touched a soldering iron on the rear sight retention screw to kill loctite. Not sure that was needed. Bang out sights from left to right (toward the ejection port). Some said you could go either way, and the dovetail looks that way....but I know left to right works. The rest is well shown in the videos....and I used the opportunity to change out my sights. I love the results. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[RobzGuns]

Yup... Watch the Apex video a couple times before tearing into it, then keep the video handy as a step-by-step tutorial.

 

[ultratec00]

What model M&P are you installing it in? Some (aka: shield) may be a bit tougher than others and require more patience. Personally, I don't recommend punches for installing sights. If you are putting night sights on, I've had manufacturers tell me they won't warranty failed sights installed using a punch. There are generic pushers out there for $50-100 that work and will also allow you to adjust sights to point of aim.

 

[CB3]

Is there anything I should watch out for?

Yep.

When I did my first install nobody warned me . . .

How interesting, slightly challenging, rewarding (with significantly increased performance) and flat out overall fun the install would be, AND that it could lead to a crack-like addiction getting M&P's and installing all kinds of Apex parts at increasing expense, for myself, relatives and friends.

Forewarned is forearmed.

 

[CS45Fan]

FYI the trigger spring has a felt "pad" (for lack of a better word) inside the body of the spring. First time I ever saw that and it looked strange to me - but it's designed that way - so no need to contact Apex.

 

[Flash_80]

When I had my rear sight off, I buzzed around in the striker block hole with some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out any machining burrs that might be in there. Not a lot but a little and without any hard pressure. I dont know if it made a difference, but smoother is better where that block rides up and down.

 

[loonybin]

What model M&P are you installing it in? Some (aka: shield) may be a bit tougher than others and require more patience. Personally, I don't recommend punches for installing sights. If you are putting night sights on, I've had manufacturers tell me they won't warranty failed sights installed using a punch. There are generic pushers out there for $50-100 that work and will also allow you to adjust sights to point of aim.

It is a Shield 9mm. I have brass punches, but I thought the long tool is for tapping out the sights? Unfortunately, a couple unexpected expenses have ruled out the sight pusher and the night sights I was planning on getting as well.

I too watched the various videos available from Apex and others, and they served me well. I did it without a sight pusher- used brass and steel punches and a hammer and was able to get sights off. They are definitely a little stubborn. Pre-soaked with breakfree (I think), and touched a soldering iron on the rear sight retention screw to kill loctite. Not sure that was needed. Bang out sights from left to right (toward the ejection port). Some said you could go either way, and the dovetail looks that way....but I know left to right works. The rest is well shown in the videos....and I used the opportunity to change out my sights. I love the results. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Thanks! I have plenty of Breakfree, brass hammer, a padded vise, lots of patience, but no aftermarket sights. My 15y.o. son has some new prescription glasses, though...

 

[loonybin]

My kit arrived yesterday, so I spent part of my evening switching out parts. I don't have a strain gauge, so I don't know what the trigger weight is, but the trigger reset is a ton better, and it is considerably smoother. I'm looking forward to my range session tomorrow!

As expected, the sights were the hard part, but with some oil under them, they came out. I marked them and the frame with some of my wife's nail polish before removing them, and I noticed that they were a little off center, so I used my calipers and a metal ruler to get them closer to center (I thought I was pushing my shots, but maybe it wasn't just me).

I definitely like the trigger safety more, as it reminds me of the safety on my HS2000 (XD for those of you too young to remember the first name it was imported under).

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[Raisin]

When I had my rear sight off, I buzzed around in the striker block hole with some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out any machining burrs that might be in there. Not a lot but a little and without any hard pressure. I dont know if it made a difference, but smoother is better where that block rides up and down.

How were you able to use the sandpaper in that tiny little hole?

 

[CB3]

How were you able to use the sandpaper in that tiny little hole?

This is an easy fix for a gritty and/or hitchy trigger.

Cut a 1/2" wide strip 4" long of 1,000-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Roll it up tight on the 1/2" dimension--smaller than the striker block channel. Insert into the hole and let it expand. Move it in & not quite out about 6-10x, turning it as you go. The paper will be stiffer if dry rather than wet with water or oil.

Repeat the same thing in the striker channel where the striker block channel intersects. There is often a burr here because of machining. You may need a slightly bigger piece of paper. It wears quickly, so keep using new pieces.

Polish the striker block lightly, both the sides and the bottom rim that engages the trigger bar.

Polish the edges of the trigger bar that engage the striker block and the sear.

Clean the sanded areas thoroughly with pressurized spray cleaner. Dry. Lightly lubricate the striker block channel and striker block, but not the striker channel or striker. I put a thin dab of grease on the engagement surfaces of the trigger bar. It stays in place better than oil.

Your trigger pull will be smoother and a little lighter unless the channels were already smoothed from 1,000+ rounds fired or having had this same procedure slready performed.

Good luck. It is even easier to do than it sounds.