Bargain or Bust?

[glowe]

I was watching a top-break S&W for sale at an online auction and put in a low bid a few days before the auction. On auction day, I forgot that I had placed a bid on the gun, but got an email that I had won it for $130, since no other bids had been posted.

Listing was: Smith & Wesson Top Break Perfected, 32 Rev., #5259 stamped, For parts/non-working

I have a general interest in the Perfected revolver, so took a look at the only picture (below) offered. That helped me decide it was not a single shot, not a 32, and maybe not a parts gun. Before placing a bid, I had figured out it was actually a short barrel (3 1/4") 38 Perfected, No Change, but the "parts/non-working" bothered me. I see the potential that the cylinder has been partially unscrewed, so am keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is simple to fix. I also think the finish may be quite good, but will add to the thread when it arrives.

Just thought it would be an interesting gun with an interesting description to post here. I am happy with the purchase even though I do not know much about the mechanics of the gun, but am certainly happy with the price. The accuracy of postings for guns for sale are often incorrect, so if I had searched for a 38 Perfected, as I often do, it would probably not have shown up and maybe that is why it sold so cheap?

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Looks pretty good on that side. Hey, you got a hammer, trigger, cylinder and barrel. You can probably get $130 back from them if necessary.

 

[merl67]

Looks like a good buy to me, much better than my last Perfected purchase.

 

[JSR III]

OK, I'll start the bidding, $135......

 

[rct269]

My knee-jerk reaction (and hope) is you're going to be pleasantly surprised----and a happy camper!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[NewDeparture]

Nice catch.

Most of the internal parts are supposed to be the same as the 1903 .32 Hand Ejector, so finding replacement parts (if needed) should not be too difficult.

Please post some pictures once you get it.

Newdeparture

 

[Skeetr57]

Be aware that not all 1903 parts are the same. I have a 1903, no change, and although externally it looks the same as later changes, almost all internal parts are different. Parts for a 1903 built from 1906 to @1919 are the most likely to work.

 

[first-model]

The cylinder may very well be partially unscrewed. On most of the top break guns, the cylinder can be removed entirely by breaking open the gun, holding the latch up and then unscrewing the barrel while pulling up on it. On this gun, it may just be a matter of holding the latch up and re-seating the barrel.

Either way, I agree with the assessments that you did fine at $130. Even if it's a wall hanger, it's still a good representative example of one of Smith & Wesson's most venerable lines of revolvers.

By the way ... when you're removing or installing the cylinder, make sure you don't let the latch drag on the outside of the cylinder (in other words, hold the latch up very firmly). Many otherwise good cylinders have been scratched by loosely held latches ...

Mike

 

[glowe]

I have gone over all these scenarios in my mind, but bottom line is whatever is or is not wrong with the gun, it will be ready for the gun range shortly after it arrives. So far about all I know is that it shipped in June 1911. I just do not run across 3 1/4" 38 Perfected revolvers, so am anxious to get my hands on it.

 

[glowe]

I cannot figure out why some auction companies take one cell phone photo and call it good?? If this one was properly photographed, it would have sold for lots more money, since it is literally 100% pristine. I received the 38 Perfected a few days ago and could not have been happier with the condition, BUT now I have to tackle the problems with the function.

First, I did not have a 3 1/4" barrel length and do not see them often so this one completes all the barrel lengths in my collection. Second, it does have problems, but I believe they can be resolved.

There is only one missing part, the ejector rod that screws into the shaft of the ejector star is missing, so the revolver does not function. I believe I can get the part made, since you just cannot find parts for a Perfected DA. The ejector assembly is different than a 38 DA.

The larger problem is that the quill is apparently out of alignment. The revolver closes very hard and the cylinder is jammed and cannot move. There is no clearance between the cylinder and the lower frame, so the quill is bent. The center pin will not drop into the recoil shield to provide the second lock against the thumb piece. I can guess that someone has tried to open the revolver without pressing the thumb piece and bent the quill down. I have not run across this issue before, so any suggestions on how to repair would be welcome. The difficult issue is there appears to be no way to visually line up the quill with the center pin hole in the recoil shield.

Anyway, a near perfect Perfected is $800 to $1000 in SCSW4, so I want to get this one back to good mechanical condition.

 

[glowe]

Couple more pictures, including the parts in the cylinder assembly.

 

[merl67]

Is the circled part what you need ?

 

[glowe]

Is the circled part what you need ?

Yes, it has a small spring that goes inside that rod keeps the center pin protruding through the ejector star. It is the same external dimensions as the 38 DA rod, but different thread diameter, plus the DA rod is solid, not hollow. Sam, who has done some great work making ejector rod knobs for 1896 and 1899 HEs has agreed to try to make a replacement. The bigger problem is re-bending the quill, so the action closes properly. I am dealing with a big upside in value to get this little gem working again, plus saving one of the nicest 38 Perfected revolvers I have ever seen.

 

[merl67]

See your private messages

 

[H Richard]

Good luck Gary, that one needs to be saved.

 

[twaits]

Its amazing to me that it is so screwed up mechanically when the revolver appears to be almost pristine. Someone must have given it to their kid as a toy to abuse.

 

[mmaher94087]

I'll venture the guess that, when the revolver was fired, the top latch was not closed securely. The energy of the firing caused the barrel to pivot away and down from the frame but the center pin (thumb latch) momentarily prevented the cylinder from moving forward with the barrel as the round was expelled causing the bent quill. S&W did include, in their lid instructions, the admonishment about making sure the barrel latch was secure. This is an example in my opinion.

 

[glowe]

I'll venture the guess that, when the revolver was fired, the top latch was not closed securely . . .

That could very well be, but I forgot to release the thumb latch on my first 38 Perfected. I was used to shooting top-breaks and with one lapse of memory, flipped open the top latch and pushing down on the 6" barrel with no results, so I pushed harder a couple of times before I remembered the thumb release. The gun did not close as well after and the thumb latch was not pushed back by the center pin. I was able to put similar upward pressure on the cylinder and the quill realigned without damage . . . but it could have been worse.

I think either case could have caused damage, but am getting some great suggestions on repair on the Gunsmithing section.

 

[Hondo44]

Gary,

That is a beautiful example. I have no doubt you'll get it working again. What a great buy.

Besides knobs for the 1896, Sam has made an 1896 center pin as well. I also think he'd have no problem making you a ctr pin, especially since you can send him one of your others for replication.

 

[glowe]

. . . Besides knobs for the 1896, Sam has made an 1896 center pin as well. I also think he'd have no problem making you a ctr pin, especially since you can send him one of your others for replication.

Well, merl67 has offered to send me the correct ejector rod for a 38 Perfected. I have taken him up on his gracious offer.

I have contacted Sam and let him know about finding the part, but will most certainly contact him with any future projects.