Best solvent for loosening lead in cyl and barrel

[trikerider]

What are the best solvents for lead removal? I have a Lewis lead removal tool, but what solvents help loosen it? Triker

 

[oldbrownhat]

I've used a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.

Opinions on this vary a lot, but FWIW I found this on the 1911 Forum:

I have used the vinegar/peroxide method on and off for several years. This is the most effective method I have found for removing ALL the lead from a barrel. This includes having used an electronic Foul-Out, chore boy, and all the various "solvents" touted to remove lead. These other methods all work to a greater or lesser degree, with chore boy (in MHO) being the best, other than peroxide/vinegar solution.

There are some major caveats:

The p/v solution will remove bluing. So if you should drip it on a blue surface, you'll have a bare spot.

Do not leave it in your barrel very long. It does the job very quickly. I have read some leave it 5 minutes, but I leave it 2 minutes MAX. I use a timer so I don't forget.

Disposal of the "sludge" is a problem. My county runs a waste disposal operation where, for a small fee, they will dispose of "toxic" waste properly.

Liquid mercury works a treat, too, but.....

 

[notsofast]

Lead is very bad for any living thing. Some lead and powder removers are very bad too. Tread lightly cause you can’t take an exposure back !!!

 

[gwpercle]

Be careful with the vinegar and hydrogenn peroxide mixture it will remove bluing...
I like Ed's Red Bore Cleaner ( do a recipe search ) another penetrant that gets up under the lead is 50-50 mix acetone and automatic transmission fluid (GM type, conventional not synthetic) this is a super dooper penetrating oil !

 

[dfariswheel]

There is no lead "solvent" that will remove leading that won't remove YOU too.

Probably the best/safest chemical for lead removal is Kroil.
The super-penetrating fluid infiltrates under the lead and loosens it's bond, allowing it to be brushed out.
The only downside is it requires a day or two of soaking to work, and may need another application.
A definite up side to Kroil is the liquid holds lead dust in suspension so you don't breath in lead dust as dry methods cause.

Many other home brew de-leading chemicals and methods can damage the gun.
Some methods that work fast and won't harm the gun or you is the Lewis Lead Remover kit and wrapping some Chore Boy 100% COPPER pot scrubber around a used bore brush.
Be warned that some off-brand "copper" pot scrubber pads are copper plated stainless steel and will RUIN a barrel.

Even if you only shoot jacketed bullets in a revolver you should still have the Lewis Kit.
It contains a special cleaning head that removes leading, carbon, and copper fouling off the forcing cone.
A build up of lead or carbon and copper can contribute to a cracked forcing cone.

For cleaning the chamber(s) nothing is faster then a bronze chamber brush from Brownell's.
These are not only larger then bore brushes, they're made of a more stiff bristle and work better/faster then using an over-caliber bore brush does.
Buy only bronze bore and chamber brushes, never use stainless steel brushes.

 

[oldbrownhat]

I love Kroil but oddly never thought of it for lead. Good to know. I'm about to use it (or ATF/acetone) to loosen the old impeller on my pellet stove exhaust fan, which needs to be replaced.

 

[italiansport]

Anyone ever had any success using Liquid Wrench for this purpose?
Jim

 

[J. R. WEEMS]

LEAD

I love Kroil but oddly never thought of it for lead. Good to know. I'm about to use it (or ATF/acetone) to loosen the old impeller on my pellet stove exhaust fan, which needs to be replaced.

SURE DON'T NEED ANYTHING THAT WILL REMOVE BLUE Have plenty of KROIL on hand as I bought two cases, one in can, the other in spray-- it sure has gone up in price. Got mine for dealers cost cheap, a good guys price direct from manufacture.

 

[SMSgt]

Hoppes and a piece of Chore Boy works for me.

 

[andy52]

A little Hoppes and a Lewis lead remover.

 

[ken158]

A little Hoppes and a Lewis lead remover.

This guy knows how to clean a gun!

 

[phonejack]

I let a penetrating oil soak while I clean the rest of the pistol. Seems to work fine for me.

 

[trikerider]

Well, hoppe's and a Lewis lead remover is what I use, but wondered if anything worked better. How about cleaning cylinder face and around forcing cone?

 

[gwpercle]

I love Kroil but oddly never thought of it for lead. Good to know. I'm about to use it (or ATF/acetone) to loosen the old impeller on my pellet stove exhaust fan, which needs to be replaced.

In testing the ATF-Acetone outperformed all other brands of penetrating oils.....including Kroil !
Try it... it works very well.

 

[schutzen-jager]

the old method was to plug bore + fill it with mercury - I've done it in the past + will use it again if I ever have a severe leading problem - all safety precautions need to be observed ! -

 

[Patrick L]

I use the Brownells stainless chamber brushes, they will knock the majority of the buildup out of your cylinder chambers in one "in/out" pass. I keep them right in my range bag, I generally do it right at the end of the range session, the crud seems "softer" when it's fresh. Of course I can't prove that, just the way it feels.

 

[Rammer Jammer]

I used this product for some heavy leading in one of my barrels. It worked fairly well but man was this stuff toxic. It removed some lead but I finally got tired of scrubbing and soaking and went the old school method of shooting the lead out. A few FMJ rounds and the lead was out.

4 oz. Lead Remover : SHOOTERS CHOICE LEAD REMOVER | Shop Brownells

 

[andy52]

Well, hoppe's and a Lewis lead remover is what I use, but wondered if anything worked better. How about cleaning cylinder face and around forcing cone?

I haven't found anything that works much better then a Lewis lead remover. For the cylinder face and forcing cone I use a small bronze brush like the one pictured here.

 

[GBertolet]

The Lewis lead remover is a first choice for me. Hoppes makes a clone of it also. You can get them, and extra mesh screens quite cheaply on ebay. If the leading is not too bad, you can shoot it out with some jacketed ammo. Heavy leading should never be shot out, as pressures will rise dramatically. I have the Brownell's chamber brush also. These brushes are stainless steel, at least mine are. They should be used on the cylinders only. The stainless steel will scratch barrels, as it is as hard or harder than barrel steel, and will damage them over time, if used there.

 

[38SPL HV]

Put patch on slotted tip using your favorite solvent or CLP put through bore and firing chambers and let sit overnight. I like Hoppes 9 on my all steel revolvers. I’ve also used BF CLP, Ballistol, Gunzilla and MPro7, particularly on S&W alloy revolvers (Hoppes 9 is too harsh on these with its ammonia content). I then push through jag with patch to remove majority of powder residue. Wrap Chore Boy around worn bore brush and work through the bore a few times or more to remove lead. I’ll use a 38/357 chamber brush or oversized brush (40 cal) on my 38/357 revolvers and clean out chambers, or Chore Boy if chambers are very leaded (usually with swaged bullets). With the lead removed from bore and chambers run wet patches through bore and chambers, and then finish using dry patches until one comes out clean.

Bronze brush with Hoppes 9 or MPro7 works well on cylinder faces.