Best Spray On Finish?

clang444

US Veteran
Joined
Sep 12, 2002
Messages
1,928
Reaction score
3,829
Location
IL
I've got an aluminum mag well I modified so the anodized finish is shot. I thought I would try one of the spray on type finishes for this piece. Any suggestions on which one is best? Don't need any fancy colors - black will do.

Thanks,

clang
 
Register to hide this ad
I've got an aluminum mag well I modified so the anodized finish is shot. I thought I would try one of the spray on type finishes for this piece. Any suggestions on which one is best? Don't need any fancy colors - black will do.

Thanks,

clang
 
Don't laugh (or cry)...

I refinished on old beater M&P, and know someone who has done a couple of his bolt-action rifles, in plain-ol' flat black bbq grill spray paint. Made to withstand high temps, so it is tough - and looks just like parkerized. And at 6 bucks a can at the corner Ace Hardware, you can afford the gas to get home!

Perhaps this should've gone in the 'confessions' thread a week or so back
icon_wink.gif


P.S. Come to think of it, I used that on the frame of my Volunteer Arms Commando (Tommy Gun semi-clone), so I know it works on aluminum too.
 
Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II is very good. I have refinished several 10-22 trigger guards with good results. It is incredibly tough for a one-component finish.

WOB
 
I agree with WOB on the Aluma-Hyde II, but I have had great success with appliance
paint in the spay can ( you must bake it). I think it was called appliance epoxy paint?
Aluma-Hyde is by far better @ $25 than H-D spay paint $5.
Brownells also make a spray called GUN BLUE thats looks great over park, but again $25 a can.
Dont know how to post pics yet.
Both of these where done with appliance
paint in the spay can.
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=235065
 
For a cheap finish, 1200 degree engine block enamel works well. It's a lot tougher than BBQ grill paint, in my experience. Most auto parts stores have it in stock. After spraying, you'll need to bake your parts in the oven for at least 30 min at 350 or so in order for it to cure properly.

Alumahyde II is better and doesn't require baking, but it's more expensive and it takes around 2 weeks to fully cure. This means don't touch the parts AT ALL during this time.

Which ever you choose, the most important step is to degrease your parts thorougly before spraying.
 
K&G Gun Kote is the "best". 1400 Flat Black. If you don't have a small air brush or touch-up type spray gun you can buy a "Preval Sprayer" at Lowes and other stores. It is a can of compressed air with a small glass bottle attached to the bottom for the liquid. You can bake it in your oven at home. 325 degrees for one hour.

Only downer is that you might not want to buy a pint of Gun Kote for just one small job.
 
Thanks for the recommendations gentlemen.

Would Gun Kote be considered a Moly/Teflon Coating? How about the Ceramic coatings now being advertised?
 
If you buy the 1600 series Gun Kote it is a high-teflon coating. I have found it to possibly be slightly less durable than the regular 1400 but it has a beautiful appearance.

I have done small parts without blasting but if doing a firearm you should bead blast with aluminum-oxide.

I have had some FAL rifles finished with a ceramic type coating and I wasn't all that impressed. Didn't seem as durable as Gun Kote to me.
 
CERAKOTE

ultraraptor2kimber.jpg
i have been applying cerakote for some time now and have had excellent results. this was a blued kimber ultra raptor that i did in cerakote stainless.
 
Back
Top