A wee note about crimping/taper crimping.
Back when I was starting out in long range competition, I spent a lot of time on a bench rest website looking for reloading tips. One of the things I discovered was that the top BR shooters did a mild crimp on their o so carefully made/sorted uncannelured bullets. Despite neck turning for uniform neck wall thickness, careful neck sizing and seating, they found it improved the uniformity of bullet tension and powder burn. And, accuracy. I worked out a crimp method for my long range loads and they shot very well indeed.
Add in the violent feed cycle of the carbine length gas system, some form of crimp is a really good idea. As noted earlier, I've got separate taper crimp dies for cannelured and uncannelured bullets.
Having set up several different taper crimp dies, I found a quick method to establish a base line adjustment.
With a factory round in the case holder, run the press ram all the way up. Then, screw the taper crimp die down until it makes firm contact with the round.
Lower the ram, replace the loaded round with a socket large & long enough to put upward pressure on the die when the ram is raised. Screw the die in just a smidgen (1/16 of a turn or less-this is to take care of spring back of the case/bullet), then raise the press ram to take the play out of the threads. At this point, turn the lock ring down to firm contact with the press frame and lock it in place.
Load a dummy round and check the mouth of the case for size, you should show about 0.001 inches less than an uncrimped loaded round. This measurement may vary somewhat depending upon case wall thickness at the neck. Adjust as necessary. Added note: 1-14 die threads move the die 0.071 in per turn. 1/4 turn is 0.018 inch, 1/8 turn 0.009 in, 1/16 turn 0.0045 inch.
Sneaky old trick for lock rings with set screws to lock them in place: drop a # 6 or 7 1/2 lead shot pellet under the set screw to make contact with the threads. Makes the adjustment much more secure and doesn't ding up threads.