I apologize if this is a duplicate thread but I can't seem to find another ,I want to camo my rifle but unsure of the best paint to use I would prefer something hardwearing (obviously) and would want to use more than one colour any pics for inspiration would also be appreciated. Many thanx steve
-
Forum Update: We've upgraded the software to improve security, performance, and the overall experience.
👉 Read why we made the change | Support the Forum
Best way to camo rifle ?
- Thread starter ukm@p
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Jyezahn
US Veteran
There are quite a few videos on YouTube showing different ways to camo your rifle. Most notably, either a camo dip-kit or with Krylon spray paints.
Thanks to doomsdaytactical for posting this video for my response on cammo
MydipKit Youtube.mp4 - YouTube
MydipKit Youtube.mp4 - YouTube
ballistictoyz
Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2012
- Messages
- 183
- Reaction score
- 108
try rustoleum outdoor texture paint==i used it on several of my rifles,wears like iron and provides a non slip grip. comes in matte green,brown,black and sand and charcoal,i really like it on the barrels and reciever because you dont have to wipe them down if your caught in rain
Kayback
Member
Spray can is the best, IMHO. Cheap, easy to do, easy to repair, and able to be tailored to your season or terrain and cheap.
Did I mention it is cheap?
There are some very good techniques out there if you look for them. It is almost impossible to screw it up.
KBK
Did I mention it is cheap?
There are some very good techniques out there if you look for them. It is almost impossible to screw it up.
KBK
Gopher Slayer
Member
After watching the video, I saw a link to another video from a company that does hydro dipping locally. I don't think I would do an entire rifle, but I can think of a few things that would look cool.
For some reason, I want to do my toilet seat, my PS3, and my desktop computer. Pretty much everything except my firearms would look good with skulls and fire on it.
For some reason, I want to do my toilet seat, my PS3, and my desktop computer. Pretty much everything except my firearms would look good with skulls and fire on it.
Beuford T. Rimfire
Member
+1 for the spray can. It's cheap and you won't be super sensitive about damaging the finish if you actually use your rifle much.
Rattle can paint can be surprisingly durable if you let it cure properly, either over a week or so at room temperature or in a low heat oven for a few hours. Any scratches or abrasions will only show through the black underneath and either be basically unnoticeable or possibly add some effect to your camo pattern. And some actually prefer that battle-worn look. Everyone has a different opinion. If you spend lots of money on a coating job just make sure its something you'll like for a while. The more durable the coating, the harder it is to remove and re-do once you get tired of it.
Rattle can paint can be surprisingly durable if you let it cure properly, either over a week or so at room temperature or in a low heat oven for a few hours. Any scratches or abrasions will only show through the black underneath and either be basically unnoticeable or possibly add some effect to your camo pattern. And some actually prefer that battle-worn look. Everyone has a different opinion. If you spend lots of money on a coating job just make sure its something you'll like for a while. The more durable the coating, the harder it is to remove and re-do once you get tired of it.
Tommy kaira
Member
These guys can dip pretty much anything. You can get some pretty detailed designs.
Kayback
Member
If all you are wanting to do is make your firearm difficult to see, then there is no reason to go beyond rattle can.
If you are wanting to decorate your rifle, then by all means use a Hydrodip.
For a rifle to be dragged around in the bush or used against barricades or other rather damaging to the finish endeavors, then Hydrodipping is overkill. Serious use of your firearm may damage the pretty finish.
KBK
If you are wanting to decorate your rifle, then by all means use a Hydrodip.
For a rifle to be dragged around in the bush or used against barricades or other rather damaging to the finish endeavors, then Hydrodipping is overkill. Serious use of your firearm may damage the pretty finish.
KBK
Hmmm I do like the idea of cheap and being able to touch up/change colour easily, maybe I'll try the spray paint option first and if I'm not happy I can then look at the hydrodipping. Any ideas on the best paint to use I live quite close to a motor parts store so would car spray paint do the job and would it be worth getting a clear sealant ? Again many thanks guys
Kayback
Member
Quite honestly not even that much hey.
Get a couple of cans of Aervoe or I personally use Rustoleum because it is what I can get.
De-grease the gun. Tape up the optics of your rifle and possibly temporarily fill the muzzle.
Make sure the rifle is warm (put it in the sun for half an hour) and it is an above 20*Celsius day (I do realise this means you could be waiting forever, you can do it at above 15* but curing time is longer). Shake the **** out of the cans to make sure it is mixed properly.
Spray a base coat with gentle wafts of spray. Mist it. Then obscure the gun with something like a camo-net or such to temporarily mask of sections. Mist it with your next colour. Move the temporary masking and repeat. Total elapsed time is around 40min. Gun will be dry and ready to shoot in about 2 hours. Leave to dry in sun, or not
Total paint curing time means you should probably leave it for 24 hours. You can matt clear coat it if you want, but this is not neccesary.
As the seasons change or your tastes change you can do it another colour.
If you break the rifle down into smaller parts you can cure the paint in the oven. 70*Celcius and the paint will be hard as nails.
If you scratch it it will simply add to the character and if you need to you can touch it up.
Oh, and if you shoot LOTS and get you barrel REALLY hot, the paint may change colour. But I'm talking probably polymer melting hot.
Total cost what, $20? £15?
KBK
Get a couple of cans of Aervoe or I personally use Rustoleum because it is what I can get.
De-grease the gun. Tape up the optics of your rifle and possibly temporarily fill the muzzle.
Make sure the rifle is warm (put it in the sun for half an hour) and it is an above 20*Celsius day (I do realise this means you could be waiting forever, you can do it at above 15* but curing time is longer). Shake the **** out of the cans to make sure it is mixed properly.
Spray a base coat with gentle wafts of spray. Mist it. Then obscure the gun with something like a camo-net or such to temporarily mask of sections. Mist it with your next colour. Move the temporary masking and repeat. Total elapsed time is around 40min. Gun will be dry and ready to shoot in about 2 hours. Leave to dry in sun, or not
Total paint curing time means you should probably leave it for 24 hours. You can matt clear coat it if you want, but this is not neccesary.As the seasons change or your tastes change you can do it another colour.
If you break the rifle down into smaller parts you can cure the paint in the oven. 70*Celcius and the paint will be hard as nails.
If you scratch it it will simply add to the character and if you need to you can touch it up.
Oh, and if you shoot LOTS and get you barrel REALLY hot, the paint may change colour. But I'm talking probably polymer melting hot.
Total cost what, $20? £15?
KBK
Last edited:
Majorlk
Member
Beuford T. Rimfire
Member
People still use those? Kinda like shillings and conch shells, right?
I think I'd trade some guy in beer and potato chips before I took his Euros!
I'll grab the paint tomorrow and have a go after work think I'm gonna have to use the oven technique as if I was to wait for the sun to show the rifle would of developed its own rust effect camo and I'd be long gone lol. So is it worth warming parts in the oven first or would leaving it by a heater be okim really bad at cooking and wouldn't want to over do it
Beuford T. Rimfire
Member
You could let it dry inside if you had to. One thing to concider is that your paint and parts to be painted should be near the same temp. So don't store your paint outside in the cold and then try to spray it on your handguard that's been sitting inside in the warmth. And just remember, DRY TO THE TOUCH isn't "really" dry. Give it some time and let the paint cure. If you're worried about using the oven, just hang the rifle inside in a warm preferably low-humidity area for a few days. YouTube is full of camo paint effect ideas. Some easy, some overly complex - just take your time. Any little mishaps you might get will probably get lost in the camo pattern, so don't worry if things don't go 100% to plan. Few people will notice little imperfections unless you point them out.
Majorlk
Member
If air drying, I would allow a full week before reassembly. As has been said before dry does NOT mean cured.
