Black powder 38s&w

chuck303

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
195
Reaction score
74
Looking to try out loading some 38s&w in black powder, anyone have any 38s&w brass? Hoping to load rounds for a baby Russian.

I have loaded BP for other loadings long ago.
I could use a set of dies and brass. Anyone recommend an online shop with a good reputation? Not finding much local
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
You can find dies on EBay. Track of The Wolf has Starline brass in stock. $28/100 or 25 cent apiece, plus shipping. A few years back it seemed that Bass Pro always had 38 S&W ammo on the shelf, at least my area store did. Bought a set of Lee 38 S&W dies there too.

John.
 
You can also buy brass directly from Starline in 500-round increments.

For awhile there was a fellow selling brand new RCBS sizer dies on Ebay for $10 each with free shipping—unbelievably. I took a chance and got exactly what I paid for. However, that was a bit of an extravagance as it wasn’t really necessary.

The 38 S&W is a bit of an oddity in that it can be reloaded using an amalgamation of dies from other calibers. I started off using a 38 Super sizing die, a 9mm expander and a 380 ACP seating/sizer die with great results. In fact I haven’t even used my 38 S&W sizer yet….
 
Last edited:
Asking for my own self: Can you use Pyrodex? Even Walmart sells Pyrodex.

You can, but you may not want to. Pyrodex is more corrosive and harder to clean up after than real black powder.

The big box stores sell it because they can't or won't jump through the hoops the government places on storing and handling black powder. Pyrodex (and the other substitutes) are classed as propellants and not explosives.
 
Last edited:
Hodgdon Reloading Manual #24 (Circa 1977), in the back under Black Powder Cartridges it lists: 38 S&W 15 gr by volume of FFFg @ 700fps and 38 Short Colt 15 grain FFFg by Volume @ 705 fps.

Pyrodex CTG is in between FFg and FFFg and you use the same volume settings. I prefer Small Pistol Mag Primers on all Pyrodex loads due to difficulty igniting.

Ivan
 
Do not load by someone else's black powder information. Black powder loading is dependent on each brand of case with different available powder space and what bullet you use. Start by determining how far into the case will the bullets be set. Next, fill a case with BP until it sets 1/16" above where the bullet base will sit. Now measure the volume of that load and use it for your reloading.

As for corrosion using BP or substitute, the difference is the residue left in the barrel. Black powder leaves a soot containing sulfur, of which both will cause aggressive corrosion if exposed to high humidity. BP substitutes contain only soot, which is very hydroscopic. Humidity can cause corrosion, but not as aggressive as BP residue. Soap and water is the most effective bore cleaner for either, but is somewhat difficult to use with revolvers. Having lots of inaccessible areas, water can collect where it cannot be properly dried. Do not use petroleum oils in the bore or chamber for protection of BP guns unless you wipe down all oils before shooting. Oil and BP/Substitutes do not mix, leaving a sticky substance that will bind up your revolver fast. I find that smokeless powder is a fine alternative for antique revolvers if low pressure loads are used. There are many loads offer lower pressures than a case full of BP or substitutes and much easier to clean and protect.
 
Gary thank you for this. I have been reading quite a bit here on the subject. Being here talking to people about their knowledge and experience in this field helps tremendously
 
You can, but you may not want to. Pyrodex is more corrosive and harder to clean up after than real black powder.

The big box stores sell it because they can't or won't jump through the hoops the government places on storing and handling black powder. Pyrodex (and the other substitutes) are classed as propellants and not explosives.

Another issue with Pyrodex I have experienced helping modern black-powder shooters get their rifles to shoot as expected. I am a black powder shooter only in all of the black powder firearms I shoot. It seems that most people don't have much trouble getting Pyrodex to go off when the can is new, the next season is another story. I am of the opinion that the clock starts ticking the minute you open the can, black powder will last for over a century if kept dry and in an enclosed container. I've used black powder made by the old Dupont factory and never had any issues. The actually had to develop a hotter percussion ignition cap for synthetic powders like Pyrodex and Triple 7, thats what it means when the caps say "Magnum" or have a "+" sign on them. As was mentioned by Old Tanker pyrodex is also more corrosive than Holy Black. I picked up an 1858 Remington Italian copy that had been used by a guy getting into Cowboy Action because of the easy cylinder change Remington's have. On one the cylinders the nipples were stuck in the cylinder so hard that I had to drill out at least two and retap, I hate that stuff like I hate a barking dog...its the owner, not the dog. If you follow the instructions and clean after using, keep in the can and not leave it open to the elements its probably OK.
 
So I have encountered this not finding anyone that stocks black powder, may have to order some somehow from somewhere. I found a bunch of brass for smaller calibers I do reload including 38s&w. So that's a start I guess
 
As mentioned in Post #7, I also suggest a fast burning smokeless powder. That is what I do. I have never loaded a black powder caliber with black powder, only smokeless, usually Bullseye or Trail Boss. I'm sure W231 would work fine also.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top