bore brush + electric drill = clean cylinder?

deadear dan

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And when the brass bristles start bending in one direction, just flip the reverse switch on the drill and spin the opposite direction. Gotta ask if anyone is doing this or if it is not advisable. Seems like a quick solution to a tedious chore.
 
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I've cleaned my revolver cylinders for years using chamber brush or oversized bronze brush, short section of cleaning rod and a cordless drill--it works well, cleans fast and hasn't caused any problems.
 
I've cleaned my revolver cylinders for years using chamber brush or oversized bronze brush, short section of cleaning rod and a cordless drill--it works well, cleans fast and hasn't caused any problems.

I do the same thing except use an electric drill and sometimes wrap a patch around the brush and use Flitz. Larry
 
I’ve done it in milsurp rifles to clear sticky chambers, and in a shotgun once too. Haven’t tried it in revolvers before tho.
 
Shoot 100 rounds of 12 gage target loads every weekend busting Clays. The result is the Choke Tube Inserts get a layer of plastic from the wads built up. Soon as I get home I pull the chokes and reach for my Milwaukee M18 drill. As for the barrels, that is done the old fashioned way with straight line brushing. I've actually thought about getting a 30 inch stroke electric cylinder to do that job but those cylinders are NOT cheap and putting together a controller would be a bit of a challenge.

Note, learned real fast to NEVER reverse the drill. Because you will unwind the twisted wires at the core of the brush and have a mess of bronze wire to clean up.
 
Works well, especially with a variable speed drill set to low RPM, and bronze or brass brushes. It makes quick work of cleaning cruddy revolver chambers. I would not use a steel or stainless steel brush.
 
I have used the above method only 2 or 3 times but haven't in 20 some odd years now. I much prefer the Lewis Lead Remover. Not only does the LLR do a superb job, but it does so quickly, safely and does not ruin a Bronze Bore Brush.

The Bronze Bore Brushes will usually shed when used in an Electric Drill and the little tint bristles could find heir way into your Ejector Rod Hole. Yes - it can and does happen! Wether or not the process of a Bronze Brush and Electric Drill is harmful or not to the Revolver - I much prefer the LLR as it does a very efficient, quick, and safe removal of Lead.

My feeling is: If they make the proper tool for a specific job, why use a method that is more costly, probably more risky and sort of improper when you can do it the proper way for less (after the reasonable initial cost of the LLR of course).

YES - I do realize there is no LLR model made for a .22 Rimfire. :(

NOTE: If one were to use the above method with an electric drill, I'd use the drill on a fairly LOW speed to keep bristle shedding to a minimum and also keep Lead particles from going airborne. I'd also refrain from reversing direction.
 
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Been doing it for decades, with the exception of reversing the drill. I use a bronze brush one size bigger than the bore -- for example, a .40 brush for a .357. Works well, no damage.
 
I use a strip of green Scotchbrite wrapped around an old smaller brush, or used up .38 brush with the cordless drill. No reversing. It cleans like a champ and polishes the chamber so the fired cases fall freely. Easier cleanup too. For chambers only. Barrel gets cleaned the normal way.
 
I've never cleaned any revolver that required a brass brush and power drill . A few passes with a brush on a hand held rod saturated with Ed's Red and the job is done .
Unless your nick name is " Bubba" keep power tools away from gun cleaning chores ... you could damage things .
Gary
 
Never felt the need to get in that big of a hurry to clean revolvers. If they're cleaned after each use, they clean in a jif, no matter how many rounds are put through them in a shooting session.

I don't carry for the use of power tools as aids to revolver cleaning chores.
 
I have used this method on shotgun barrels and it makes fast work of removing plastic residue from the wads. I also think it would work well on revolver chambers, but again a little hand work removes everything in the chambers with Hoppes No.9 works wonders.

I would think,however, that a rapidly rotating brush will not clean barrel rifling very well, since the brush would skip over the edges of the grooves. Never had any buildup in a rifled barrel that required more than Hoppe and some elbow grease.
 
If you reverse bore brushes, besides losing bristles, it kinks (which shortens) the bristles. This results in a brush that is no longer full diameter and loses its cleaning efficiency.

Polishing chambers of machining marks once, makes cleaning much easier.
 
New to me. What do you think of them?

Some buddies debated this gadget. Several said simply flaring a .357 case would accomplish the same thing.

This thing isn’t cheap for what it is but I’m very happy I bought one. I’ve shot thousands of .38 rounds thru a 66-1 and the chambers load up to the point that empties won’t eject. At that point, cleaning is a huge chore. This gadget drops in the chamber, you twist it a turn or two (using a screwdriver on one end or a cleaning rod threaded into the other) and the crud just sprinkles out. :cool:
 
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