anchors
US Veteran
Will bronze wool scratch stainless steel? I was thinking of using some with flitz to remove powder from the front of the cylinder.
Bronze wool and stainless steel
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A true bronze wool should not hurt a SS cylinder at all - IMO.
I use it on my Model 60 for that same purpose. It has never put a scratch on the gun.
Class III
Class III
Bullseye Smith
Member
This is what I use and it is faster and cleaner to use:
Beachcomber
Member
I use a stainless steel brush with very good results. I used it with Hoppes to clean all of the exterior surfaces of my stainless S&W's.
The brush I used is shaped like the bronze tooth brushes you find at your local gun dealer.
The brush I used is shaped like the bronze tooth brushes you find at your local gun dealer.
anchors, either will work, we use the 'OOO' or 4-0 ,most all the time and you will NEVER see the scratches,as there willl not be any (maybe with a microscope, BUT......................been using them and cleaning guns since the early 60'd and have YET to scratch ONE gun...and if I had a "penny' for every gun we cleaned for all the departments and all the shops over the years, I'd be "rich" beyond imagination....(PS still waiting for one of the guns to "rust" from 'steel wool too......)
lagavulin62
Member
This is what I use and it is faster and cleaner to use:
is this safe on nickel? if not what is the alternative? thanks, mike
Pisgah
Member
Why bother with the bronze wool? I put a bit of Fliz on a soft cloth, wrap it around my finger, and buff away. Takes powder and lead fouling off the cylinder in a jiffy. Things like Brasso and Mother's Mag polish work well, too.
stevieboy
Member
I use bronze wool regularly to clean the area between the top of the forcing cone and the frame on my stainless revolvers. I roll it up into a thick strand, slide it between the forcing cone and the top of the frame and work it back and forth like dental floss. Works like a charm!!
JohnK
US Veteran
Someone correct me here, but bronze, is (I think) much harder than copper pads (like Chore Boy), and would more easily scratch the finish.
I just used copper pads, to clean some light rust off the 1964 Marlin posted about a few days ago. Worked perfectly.
I just used copper pads, to clean some light rust off the 1964 Marlin posted about a few days ago. Worked perfectly.
+100 for copper pads (like Chore Boy)
Found in most every grocery store, CHEAP, in stock, and no shipping charges.
Have used them for many years, still waiting for the first scratch.
When "cleaning" rust speckled items (most often shotguns) I use a copper pad with common 30 weight motor oil. The more expensive gun oil is used AFTER the clean-up is finished.
Must admit that the copper pads do not last too long. They tend to fall apart, breaking into smaller pieces with use. But, these small pieces are great for SCRUBBING the bore of a shotgun barrel. Yes, many of the shotguns coming my way are FILTHY ...
Bekeart
Found in most every grocery store, CHEAP, in stock, and no shipping charges.
Have used them for many years, still waiting for the first scratch.
When "cleaning" rust speckled items (most often shotguns) I use a copper pad with common 30 weight motor oil. The more expensive gun oil is used AFTER the clean-up is finished.
Must admit that the copper pads do not last too long. They tend to fall apart, breaking into smaller pieces with use. But, these small pieces are great for SCRUBBING the bore of a shotgun barrel. Yes, many of the shotguns coming my way are FILTHY ...
Bekeart
magnum12pm
Member
The Hoppes lead removal rag really is the ticket. I think I remember it saying only use it on SS & Nickel, definitely not blue guns. It amazed me the first time I used one, its more like wiping rather than rubbing.
