BobR1
Member
A fellow on another Forum has a BUG Match coming up, and wanted advice on what he needed to do well in the match.
The requirements for BUG was a barrel with a Maximum length of 2.25 Inches, or Shorter.
Ammunition capacity can be either 5 or 6 shots. Apparently the 5 shot J frames were compensated for the lack of the 6th shot. (Note: In our BUG Division we simply score the 6th shot not available as a No Points Down Shot)
In our Club Defensive Pistol Match we have a BUG Division. The BUG Guns shoot on the same course of fire as everyone else. This gives me a different outlook on what works in a BUG Match.
With a 6 shot revolver being legal, and 2.25 Maximum Barrel length. This will let some very shootable equipment be available for use. Below is my advice as a BUG shooter.
Revolver: S&W Model 10, 12, 13, 15, 64, and 65. Of those listed a 2" Model 10, 64, or 65 should be the easiest to locate.
Holster Choices: My recomendation is an open top pancake with the trigger guard covered. A great example of this is a Lobo Model 1 Pancake, or Enhanced Pancake.
Speed Loaders: The K Frame Smith & Wesson has two very good choices available, the Safariland Comp III, and the Jet Loader. The Jet Loader is more expensive, and considered my most SSR shooters to be the better loader of the two. I have 2 Jet Loaders in the J Frame size. They do seem to cock a little more positive. I also have 10 of the K Frame size Comp III's, and they have worked fine for me. I have never tryed both side by side however. My Advice is if you are only going to buy a couple get the Jet Loaders.
Speed Loader Pouches: You will want a Kydex Speed Loader Pouch! You have some choices, BladeTech, North Mountain, I make the Big Creek which is the lowest cost one.
Ammunition: The fixed sight revolvers will be regulated for 158 grain bullets. Use Round Nose to speed up reloading.
Reloading Ammunition: Again 158 grain Round Nose Bullets. I shoot lead round nose myself. Federal are the prefered primers for tuned revolvers. They are reported to be the easiest to ignite. Powder I have tryed some different ones. I am back around to Unique again. If you are shooting any reactive steel targets I would go with 5.0 grains. If you are only perferating cardboard you can go lighter. Unique gets dirtier with light loads. A better powder choice might be AA#5.
Home Revolver Work: Put some Wolfe Springs in it. I recommend getting a Ribbed Hammer Spring in both Full and Reduced power, and trying both. I have 13 pound Rebound Springs in most of my revolvers. Clean all the internal parts and lightly oil with a synthetic oil such as Lucas Gun Oil. If you have confidence and are crafty you might watch several You Tube vidios on S&W Action Jobs, and see if you pick up anything.
I normally only stone the sides lightly, and stay off the hammer & trigger contact surfaces.
Paint the upper one half of the front sight with Green Sight Brite sight paint. First clean the front sight serations with a degreaser and tooth brush. Check to see how much of the front sight you have in the back sight. This is the area you want to paint. A model brush works fine. Get complete coverage of the upper serations on the face, with no heavy coverage areas. Do this for about 3 days. You need to let the paint get DRY between coats.
NOTE: I have tryed finger nail polish. I have not found any that stays as bright as Sight Brite. Spend a couple more bucks and get the right stuff for the job.
Gunsmith Revolver Work:
Chamfer the Chambers.
Slick up the internals.
Check Chamber alignment.
Check and adjust End Shake, and Cylinder Gap.
Polish back half of chambers.
I normally have Ball Loc installed, but you can live without it.
Grips: I hate to say this, but I shoot Hogue Rubber grips the best in matches on my Square Butt K Frame. I have Altamont, S&W Combats, Ahrends, Laser Grips, etc. I have nice wood grips on most of my revolvers. I have Hogue Rubber on my 64 SSR Gun with no plan to change them. I have Pachmayr Compac Professinals on my 2" Model 10-5 Round Butt.
Why this combination? The K frame snub is way easier to shoot well than a J Frame. The K is larger, and heavier to soak up recoil for follow up shots. You have lots of grip options. It is a robust design. The K is much easier to get a good trigger on.
Next is Speed Loader selection. You only have one real choice with the J Frame, the Little known about J-Jet Loader. As far as I know, I am the only one making a Kydex Speed loader carrier for the J Frame Jet Loader.
You have a good selection of Kydex speed loader carriers for the K Frame.
The point is, the K Frame is just plain shootable.
Lobo Holsters: Lobo Gun Leather - Home
Speed Loaders: Official NRA Shooting Targets, Speedloaders, Reloading Supplies, More
Pistoleer carries both Safariland as well as Jet Loaders.
Speed Loader Pouch for Safariland Comp III and or Jet Loaders:
North Mountain 4wheelguns.com - Quality Products for the Competitive Revolver Shooter
Big Creek [email protected]
Comp-Tac
Blade-Tech
Well this is how I would play to win in a BUG Match where 2" K Frames were allowed to play.
Bob
The requirements for BUG was a barrel with a Maximum length of 2.25 Inches, or Shorter.
Ammunition capacity can be either 5 or 6 shots. Apparently the 5 shot J frames were compensated for the lack of the 6th shot. (Note: In our BUG Division we simply score the 6th shot not available as a No Points Down Shot)
In our Club Defensive Pistol Match we have a BUG Division. The BUG Guns shoot on the same course of fire as everyone else. This gives me a different outlook on what works in a BUG Match.
With a 6 shot revolver being legal, and 2.25 Maximum Barrel length. This will let some very shootable equipment be available for use. Below is my advice as a BUG shooter.
Revolver: S&W Model 10, 12, 13, 15, 64, and 65. Of those listed a 2" Model 10, 64, or 65 should be the easiest to locate.
Holster Choices: My recomendation is an open top pancake with the trigger guard covered. A great example of this is a Lobo Model 1 Pancake, or Enhanced Pancake.
Speed Loaders: The K Frame Smith & Wesson has two very good choices available, the Safariland Comp III, and the Jet Loader. The Jet Loader is more expensive, and considered my most SSR shooters to be the better loader of the two. I have 2 Jet Loaders in the J Frame size. They do seem to cock a little more positive. I also have 10 of the K Frame size Comp III's, and they have worked fine for me. I have never tryed both side by side however. My Advice is if you are only going to buy a couple get the Jet Loaders.
Speed Loader Pouches: You will want a Kydex Speed Loader Pouch! You have some choices, BladeTech, North Mountain, I make the Big Creek which is the lowest cost one.
Ammunition: The fixed sight revolvers will be regulated for 158 grain bullets. Use Round Nose to speed up reloading.
Reloading Ammunition: Again 158 grain Round Nose Bullets. I shoot lead round nose myself. Federal are the prefered primers for tuned revolvers. They are reported to be the easiest to ignite. Powder I have tryed some different ones. I am back around to Unique again. If you are shooting any reactive steel targets I would go with 5.0 grains. If you are only perferating cardboard you can go lighter. Unique gets dirtier with light loads. A better powder choice might be AA#5.
Home Revolver Work: Put some Wolfe Springs in it. I recommend getting a Ribbed Hammer Spring in both Full and Reduced power, and trying both. I have 13 pound Rebound Springs in most of my revolvers. Clean all the internal parts and lightly oil with a synthetic oil such as Lucas Gun Oil. If you have confidence and are crafty you might watch several You Tube vidios on S&W Action Jobs, and see if you pick up anything.
I normally only stone the sides lightly, and stay off the hammer & trigger contact surfaces.
Paint the upper one half of the front sight with Green Sight Brite sight paint. First clean the front sight serations with a degreaser and tooth brush. Check to see how much of the front sight you have in the back sight. This is the area you want to paint. A model brush works fine. Get complete coverage of the upper serations on the face, with no heavy coverage areas. Do this for about 3 days. You need to let the paint get DRY between coats.
NOTE: I have tryed finger nail polish. I have not found any that stays as bright as Sight Brite. Spend a couple more bucks and get the right stuff for the job.
Gunsmith Revolver Work:
Chamfer the Chambers.
Slick up the internals.
Check Chamber alignment.
Check and adjust End Shake, and Cylinder Gap.
Polish back half of chambers.
I normally have Ball Loc installed, but you can live without it.
Grips: I hate to say this, but I shoot Hogue Rubber grips the best in matches on my Square Butt K Frame. I have Altamont, S&W Combats, Ahrends, Laser Grips, etc. I have nice wood grips on most of my revolvers. I have Hogue Rubber on my 64 SSR Gun with no plan to change them. I have Pachmayr Compac Professinals on my 2" Model 10-5 Round Butt.
Why this combination? The K frame snub is way easier to shoot well than a J Frame. The K is larger, and heavier to soak up recoil for follow up shots. You have lots of grip options. It is a robust design. The K is much easier to get a good trigger on.
Next is Speed Loader selection. You only have one real choice with the J Frame, the Little known about J-Jet Loader. As far as I know, I am the only one making a Kydex Speed loader carrier for the J Frame Jet Loader.
You have a good selection of Kydex speed loader carriers for the K Frame.
The point is, the K Frame is just plain shootable.
Lobo Holsters: Lobo Gun Leather - Home
Speed Loaders: Official NRA Shooting Targets, Speedloaders, Reloading Supplies, More
Pistoleer carries both Safariland as well as Jet Loaders.
Speed Loader Pouch for Safariland Comp III and or Jet Loaders:
North Mountain 4wheelguns.com - Quality Products for the Competitive Revolver Shooter
Big Creek [email protected]
Comp-Tac
Blade-Tech
Well this is how I would play to win in a BUG Match where 2" K Frames were allowed to play.
Bob
Last edited:
