bullet seating depth in pistols

Dennis9

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I was going thru the reloading forum a while back, ok along time ago, and some one posted a picture of how to tell if your seating depth is correct. Would like to see that picture and maybe copy . The picture showed a bullet dropped into the barrel and you could tell if it was hitting the lands or not. If anyone remembers this post. let me know..
 
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Was this the drawing illustrating the "plunk" test for 1911 autoloaders? If it is, PM me and I'll e-mail you a copy. Please note that just because a round passes the "plunk" test, it is not guaranteed to feed reliably in an autoloader. That test merely guarantees that the round fits the chamber correctly.

Bruce
 
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I think this is the magic marker on the bullet test. Seat it out and keep going deeper bit by bit until you drop the cartridge in and the rifling doesn't scuff black magic marker off the bullet. But it still needs to fit the mag and feed proper as well as fit the chamber.
 
You don't seat to the lands with standard pistol rounds.
Use your manuals to find the correct oal for your caliber/round.
 
Was this the drawing illustrating the "plunk" test for 1911 autoloaders? If it is, PM me and I'll e-mail you a copy. Please note that just because a round passes the "plunk" test, it is not guaranteed to feed reliably in an autoloader. That test merely guarantees that the round fits the chamber correctly.

Bruce

I need the picture of the "plunk" test. I know that it is not guaranteed to feed reliably but I just can't explain it to my friend. my email address is [email protected]
 
I want to thank everyone for all the information. Have a great day.
Dennis
 
Prople do the black marker test on rifle bullets and they go until it hits the lands and then back it off just a little. You also have to realize that this works for that rifle only so you have to taylor your ammo to just that rifle when you do this.

I am not a competition rifle shooter so I reload to the OAL recommended in the manual because that way it should work in all of my rifles in that caliber.
 
Wow, this thread got off topic real fast...
Is this what you're looking for?
 

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Use your manuals to find the correct oal for your caliber/round.


Not hardly!

I'm surprised that so many experienced people do not understand what the numbers in the load data (not "recipe") are for. They are there merely to set the conditions under which the load data was developed. Currently, much if not most data is not even developed in a real firearm but rather in a special fixture with test barrels. They do not a guarantee that a round loaded to the listed dimensions will feed or function in your gun. In some cases, the COAL is the SAAMI maximum length. Other times, it is the length with that particular bullet crimped in the crimping groove (for cast bullets) or cannelure (jacketed bullets) for revolvers and moderate to heavy kicking auto rifles or any rifle which feeds from a tubular magazine. In autoloading pistols and bolt action rifles, the correct OAL is almost always the longest length which will fit in the magazine correctly and feed correctly without the bullet engaging the rifling which chambered.

;)

Bruce
 
I'm with BruceM, rifle reloading is a different puppy all together. Pistol or auto's need to be to a standard length. As long as you are consistent they will always shoot the same. My Ruger (bolt action)shot best .015 off the lands and that's because the case swells when fired. All rifles are different so if you stay with a standard length they will work good in any gun. The load data is a starting place to work from.
 
I'm with BruceM, rifle reloading is a different puppy all together. Pistol or auto's need to be to a standard length.

Don't be so fast to agree with me kd5exp.

What I said applies to all forms of metallic cartridge reloading. Except as I noted, the COAL length for your particular gun needs to be nailed down by trial and error. What is printed on an internet reloading Forum or a reloading manual may or may not work in your gun. The lengths listed along with exact components, firearm or fixture used etc. merely qualify the conditions under which the printed data was obtained. That's it! They provide guidance in load development. As the disclaimers printed in the manuals state CLEARLY and NUMEROUSLY, your results can and will vary. As a matter of fact, the technicians who collected the data will tell you that they cannot reproduce the results exactly. That is why you are repeatedly told to start with the minimum charge weights listed and WORK UP in order to create high quality ammunition for your gun.;)

Unfortunately, a large portion of the current crop of handloaders want to take shortcuts by using somebody else's work, a "recipe" if you will, and turn out ammo. You see numerous threads on this and other reloading Forums alluding to this and then asking how to solve problems encountered. In essence, the "load development" step has been cut out of the equation and a move directly to ammunition production made.

:confused:

Bruce
 
I agree with you BruceM, what I said or meant to say it's a good starting place. Start there and check the chambering and then you can start to adjust. I have loaded maybe a 1000 rounds working up loads for several rifles, 1 tenth a gr at a time then work on the length. I have chamber gauges that will measure the lands for you. I have comp seating dies, neck turning tool for my rifles. I went all out when I got into it several years back. Some are very touchy on loads, my 220 swift was, and it took a lot of fine tuning to get it down. I had to let all my rifles go, but one 223) due to a devorse but still have all my tools. I never had an semi-automatic but load for several people that shoot the AR-15 and there you have to watch the magazine length. with them I buy the bullets but all my pistols I cast them which is another story.
 
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