windjammer
Member
My son bought a used tractor and bush-hog. He was told not to sharpen the blades on the bush-hog. Is this right?
He has about 15 acres of weeds. No brush.
He has about 15 acres of weeds. No brush.
Bush-Hog Question
- Thread starter windjammer
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I have sharpened the blades before. I think the problem lies with the possibility of getting the blades out of balance, causing a vibration. New blades aren't that expensive. Now, I figure if I go to the trouble of removing the old blades, I might as well spend enough (maybe $50 or $60 for a five-foot, medium duty cutter?) to put on a new set of blades.
Fifteen acres is a lot to keep mowed. What size tractor and cutter does he have?
Fifteen acres is a lot to keep mowed. What size tractor and cutter does he have?
keith44spl
Member
Bush Hogs, rotary mowers or shreaders...I think the idea or logic behind not have really sharp blades
is not to make a clean cut on the overgrowth but to splinter the stalk.
A rough or splintered cut it will not allow the plant to 'sucker out' or sprout back as soon...
is not to make a clean cut on the overgrowth but to splinter the stalk.
A rough or splintered cut it will not allow the plant to 'sucker out' or sprout back as soon...
Last edited:
OP
windjammer
Member
He bought a 230 Massy Furgerson diesel tractor with a 5ft. Woods bush-hog.
dkees
Member
Woods is top of the line. I've worn out quite a few of them, and other brands.
The idea is not to sharpen the blades like a lawn mower but just to a blunt edge (if there is such a thing.)
I simply raised the mower to maximum height, placed jack stands under it for safety, crawled underneath with a portable grinder and smoothed out the nicks and chips.
You're only going to be working on the last 6/8 inches of the blade anyway.
My motto is, if I can run over it, I can chop it.
The idea is not to sharpen the blades like a lawn mower but just to a blunt edge (if there is such a thing.)
I simply raised the mower to maximum height, placed jack stands under it for safety, crawled underneath with a portable grinder and smoothed out the nicks and chips.
You're only going to be working on the last 6/8 inches of the blade anyway.
My motto is, if I can run over it, I can chop it.
Faulkner
Member
This is exactly how I do mine as well. I don't necessarily sharpen the blades as much as I smooth them out. Living in hill country with a good number of rocks I tend to do this every year in late winter before mowing season starts.. They certainly don't need to be lawn mower sharp.
Woods 5 ft.
+1
I have a 5ft Woods, and this is exactly what I do. Its alot quicker than taking them off. They get big nicks and gouges from running over rocks, stumps, etc. I sharpen the edge, because it gets back to blunt very quickly. It makes a noticable difference mowing, as the grass is cut better and quicker and throws out easier.
Munster
+1
I have a 5ft Woods, and this is exactly what I do. Its alot quicker than taking them off. They get big nicks and gouges from running over rocks, stumps, etc. I sharpen the edge, because it gets back to blunt very quickly. It makes a noticable difference mowing, as the grass is cut better and quicker and throws out easier.
Munster
reddogge
Member
Right or wrong but I haven't sharpened a Woods bush hog blade in 20 years. Still cuts great.
Been there, done that. The one we had on the farm (6' wide) would cut down a 6" boxelder tree no problem - other than getting it under the hog so the blades could hit it.
It also worked wonders on groundhogs. I managed to get 2 in my lifetime with it.
Just keep ALL the safety guards on at all times. A simple little vine wrapped around a spinning PTO shaft can cut off an arm if it gets wrapped around one with no guard in place.
Today my brother is mowing the parent's farm (diverted acres now) with a 16 foot/3 section 'hog behind a White tractor. I wish it was me doing the driving....
