Camera to visually confirm charge?

Hornady powder cop is an alternative.
I think the Dillon Low Powder warning die that gives a loud buzz when the powder is too low or too high in a case is superior to the Hornady die. The RCBS lockout die is also superior as it actually keeps the press from operating when the powder level in a case is too high or too low.
 
This is with camera mounted in the center hole? If so, I likey

I haven’t actually mounted it yet. I just stuck it down through the hole and pointed it at station 3. I’m still thinking about ways to mount it semi permanently, so I can remove it as needed to use for another task. I’ve thought about drilling a hole in each tool head between station 2 and 3 near the edge and slightly angled toward station 3. The tool heads are hollow on the bottom, so there’s only an eighth of an inch or so to drill through. Another alternative would be to mount it horizontally above station 3 and use the right angle mirror attachment. I just need to make sure there’s clearance so nothing hits the camera on the upstroke.
 
I haven’t actually mounted it yet. I just stuck it down through the hole and pointed it at station 3. I’m still thinking about ways to mount it semi permanently, so I can remove it as needed to use for another task. I’ve thought about drilling a hole in each tool head between station 2 and 3 near the edge and slightly angled toward station 3. The tool heads are hollow on the bottom, so there’s only an eighth of an inch or so to drill through. Another alternative would be to mount it horizontally above station 3 and use the right angle mirror attachment. I just need to make sure there’s clearance so nothing hits the camera on the upstroke.

I'm thinking zip ties
 
I'm thinking zip ties

For the really deep skinny cases, I think it would put it too far off axis to get a good view. Ideally, looking straight down on station 3 would be best, but that would not be possible without using one of the threaded die holes.

I took an extra tool head and measured the side wall thickness and calculated (mostly by eyeball) a good spot to place a mounting hole and at what angle. The angle ended up being not as important due to the thin top of the tool head I drilled through and because I had to go a little oversized for the camera head which is slightly larger than the shaft. I also had to make sure I didn’t interfere with the operation of the locknuts. Ditching the Lee locknuts and going with the 1” Dillon nuts makes that part pretty easy. Now I can look down with an axial angle of less than 5 degrees, almost looking straight down. Here’s a couple pictures of how it looks and the view of a 10mm case which is what I happen to be loading right now. After I finish this run, I’ll switch over to .327FM, which will be the real test. Still waiting for the ufo LED light strip; this is just illumination from the camera LED’s and the LED in the center hole.
 

Attachments

  • 7F1C2B55-ED93-4FE5-8F82-1C4F547B0B02.jpg
    7F1C2B55-ED93-4FE5-8F82-1C4F547B0B02.jpg
    63.4 KB · Views: 26
  • EC488DAC-85E8-49E2-9E8A-CC4575F1A309.jpg
    EC488DAC-85E8-49E2-9E8A-CC4575F1A309.jpg
    44.2 KB · Views: 27
  • 6F395101-3BD4-44B4-9BF5-8B32E796ECC7.jpg
    6F395101-3BD4-44B4-9BF5-8B32E796ECC7.jpg
    58.4 KB · Views: 26
Since I installed the UFO lights, I don't see a need for anything else.

I just got my UFO lights in today and installed them. Very impressive! Here are some pictures: 1. Ambient garage light 2. Dillon Skylight only 3. KMS UFO light only
Talk about putting light right where you need it!
 

Attachments

  • 0A976548-1CC8-4530-B745-D49E7BB03676.jpg
    0A976548-1CC8-4530-B745-D49E7BB03676.jpg
    68.7 KB · Views: 24
  • 6D70E9BA-1EF7-4F86-80D6-CFF19A5D4DE8.jpg
    6D70E9BA-1EF7-4F86-80D6-CFF19A5D4DE8.jpg
    68.5 KB · Views: 26
  • 9E113841-E8D8-4F47-9574-50127FAF038C.jpg
    9E113841-E8D8-4F47-9574-50127FAF038C.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 28
That works....

I am relatively new to reloading. My power measure hasn't be very consistent so I bought a digital scale...I set the primed, empty case on the scale and zero it... charge it with powder and put it back on the scale. I trickle powder in or out to keep the loads consistent... i wish I didn't have to do it this way, but until I can justify tje cost of a better system, this gives me confidence in what i am loading

Robert

That works for me. I also inspect charged cases with a flashlight.
 
Seems to me, individually checking each charged case, especially putting them in a loading tray, defeats the entire purpose of having a progressive press.
With my powder measure, when you pull the lever the powder is going to drop. Gravity works that way. It has never failed.
 
Now I’ve figured out where this set-up really shines. If you want to sit down and load. Unless you’re literally hunched over your press, you can’t see anything. I’ve loaded almost 500 .357 Sigs this evening...from the comfort of my swivel bench chair with lumbar support. Here’s a screenshot of what I see on my ipad screen.
 

Attachments

  • CD619F61-F6BE-4A77-88D3-EF4F8F93159A.jpg
    CD619F61-F6BE-4A77-88D3-EF4F8F93159A.jpg
    65.6 KB · Views: 20
Did you catch one that the powder didn’t drop?

Hasn’t happened yet. Just gives me peace of mind to visually see the charge before I set the bullet. It’s not really needed on bigger shells like .45 ACP or 10mm, just on the tall slender ones like .32 H&R, .327 Fed Mag and .357Mag, except when I load sitting down; then it really works well and saves my back. Loading a lot of ammo and being comfortable while doing it cannot be underestimated!
 
Last edited:
.22TCM

I just started loading .22TCM and this little gadget is really making it easy. Without it (and the UFO lights), it’s like looking in a black hole. I’m really getting my money’s worth out of it.
 

Attachments

  • E594D9A1-DBA4-4C9B-A24C-9E767E5D1132.jpg
    E594D9A1-DBA4-4C9B-A24C-9E767E5D1132.jpg
    62 KB · Views: 15
Back
Top