can a model 642 barrel be replaced with 3 inch?

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magnumb

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Would still be light for EDC, easier to aim, and I could replace that fixed blade with a night sight. Fantasy or reality, what say ye?
 
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The problem with attempting to replace a barrel on an aluminum framed revolver is the very real possibility that the frame will crack, rendering it unusable. Other than that, it is possible to change barrels.
 
magnumb said:
Would still be light for EDC, easier to aim, and I could replace that fixed blade with a night sight. Fantasy or reality, what say ye?
Click to expand...

Back in the mid 90's S&W made the 640 with a 3" barrel. I've owned a couple. It made for a nice carry revolver IWB with the additional length below the belt line.

Now, can you change the barrel on yours?
Here's my take on that....If you have to ask then you're going to pay a gunsmith to do it. Guys that know how just do it. I don't know how myself.
 
Frame cracking, cost, different POI are reasons I’d advise against it. But I’d assume it could be done with the right tools and know how.
 
it would create something like the 317 kit gun (22 lr) in 38+P :).
I would hire a smith to do it. would have to find out cost for barrel and cost for the work. would be a nice carry piece, going from 1.875 to 3 inch would provide a lot more umph too.
 
Be a lot easier and cheaper to sell your gun and look for a 3" J frame. 3" providing "a lot more umph" is unlikely to make a significant difference in the very unlikely event of you ever shooting someone in SD. If alloy frame guns ever crack S&W will probably replace it or give you a deal on a new one. Crack it yourself and you're going to be on your own.
 
As noted above, there were factory 3" model 642s made. By the time you add up the cost of a 2" gun, the extra 3" barrel (if you can find one) and a gunsmithing charge you may be at or above the cost of an original 3". Good luck in your decision (and hunt).
 
I've heard S&W won't change J frame barrels due to the cracking possibility. On a K,L, or N frame, you don't have to worry too much. The J frames are paper thin there, and steel and alum. frames are both likely to break right under the barrel threads. Better to sell or trade that one and get the 3" gun.
 
I did a barrel change on a model 60 recently. Removed the original barrel very carefully and was lucky that nothing broke. I wouldn't try it on an alloy frame personally.
 
I have not seen or heard of a 3 inch j frame in 38, doesn't mean they don't exist. I would be nice and light, but relegated to Belt carry, at which point I might just be better to get a 3 inch model 60. my 642 has a really good action job right now and would hate to destroy it.

Right now there is a bit gap carry wise between my K frames and the ultralight J frame. The model 60 would be 23 oz, not 15, but still a lot lighter than 33 or 37 for my 2.5 and 4 inch K frames, which for me are a might big for regular carry. Great for home defense, or OWB woods carry
 
Look for an original 3" 642 or 640.

They pop up every now and then just have to keep your eyes peeled.

Bought both of these for around $500 each a few years ago.

Shown with a 36 Lady Smith and a 60-4
 

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Plenty of 3” J frame .38 Specials.

Steel - model 36, 36-1 and later variants
Stainless - fixed sight 60 (mid ‘80s), 60-1 (early ‘70s), 640; adjustable sight 60-4
Alloy - 37, 642. Also a short run of 637s and 642s with 2.5” ported barrels.
 
I wouldn't try it on an alloy frame. As mentioned in previous posts, too great of a danger of cracking the frame.
 
OFF TOPIC!

326MOD10 said:
Look for an original 3" 642 or 640.

They pop up every now and then just have to keep your eyes peeled.

Bought both of these for around $500 each a few years ago.

Shown with a 36 Lady Smith and a 60-4
Click to expand...

Outstanding picture, four variations of S&W made grips for the J frames RBs! Picture did not "quote" but is above!
jcelect
 
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