Evapo-Rust, a liquid product you can usually buy at home improvement stores will remove most Parkerizing. I say most because there are more than one ways of application. Some are Parkerizing in name only.
It'll weaken the coating after a soaking and then you wire wheel the parts to remove the loosened finish.
However, if you are looking for a ready to (re)blue surface underneath, that's probably not what you'll find.
What's already been pointed out, that many Park' projects were done to hide pitting is true. That pitting will still be there.
Also the Parkerizing process itself lightly etches the surface of the steel in application. That etching or matted surface on the steel will still be there and need to be polished if you want any sort of gloss blue finish.
To top it off, a lot of Parkerizing jobs are prepped by first bead blasting the surfaces to further roughen them up,,some are actually grit blasted and are really rough but those will smoothl machine marks and hide pits better.
Those are still waiting for some heavy duty labor time in polishing before re-bluing.
If I wanted the gun blued,,I would,,
#1..If I had a nothing special/non collector Parked gun and wanted it blue instead. I'd think twice. Then if I gave myself the go ahead I'd bead blast the Parkerizing off. Then hot or rust blue the surfaces as bead blasted. It won't be shiny, but it'll be blue and it won't cost too much to do.
#2..If I really really wanted it a gloss blue, I'd make sure I was up to the polishing job ahead of me first. Then go ahead and strip the Parkerizing to remove that. Then settle in and do the polishing and then bluing.
If the thought of the extra work or paying for that work doesn't sound like a good idea in #2, then back up and do #1.
Or just leave it as is, sell it and get a better specimen.
Seems like M36's are a $400 gun in good condition. Seems silly to put that much and more into one to get a $300 gun.
JMO
