Can M&P trigger pull be increased?

AppStFan

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Just out of curiosity I have been wondering if there is a simple way to increase the trigger pull on a M&P full size. With a Glock you can install a New York trigger spring. Please don't turn this into a "why would you want to do this" thread. I have carried various platforms over forty years and I am well familiar with the pros and cons of a light vs heavy trigger pull. Although I am a huge fan of the M&P, with carrying Glocks on duty for a number of years and being a Glock armorer, I am more familiar with the inner workings of the Glock. Thanks for your input on the controversial subject.
 
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I'm no expert, and I am sure plenty of more experienced folks will come along, but here's a chart using Apex springs. It appears any "increase" using Apex and S&W parts is negligible.

Trigger-Pull-Weight-Guide-600x463.png
 
Couple ways come to mind that will increase trigger pull: trigger spring and/or sear spring. I believe there's Massachusetts compliant trigger return spring out there that may suit the purpose.
 
Also, a spacer or shim can be placed in the bottom of the sear spring cavity, under the sear spring. Size of the shim (or shims) will be determined by how much increase in trigger pull is desired. Very small metal washers work great for this purpose.

Midwest Gun Works has a variety of parts available for both the Shield and the MP series pistols.
 
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S&W makes a Massachusetts-legal full-size M&P with a 10 lb. trigger. If you want to convert an existing gun with a 6 lb. trigger to a 10 lb. version, you could try to get S&W to sell you the parts. If they won't do that, then there's the usual aftermarket parts suppliers like Brownells, Midwest Gun Works, Midway USA, etc. Apex may be able to produce a custom parts combination that would do the job, so it wouldn't hurt to give them a call.
 
Thanks folks for all the civilized replies instead of making this a bashing thread. I was just primarily curious as to whether there was anything for the M&P that was comparable to the New York trigger spring for the Glock, how it was accomplished, and if anyone on the forum had actually done it. Again, thanks all for your input.
 
About the Apex chart: the resulting pull weights assume installation of the Apex trigger, sear, sear actuator and striker block. One would assume that sticking with stock parts would result in a heavier trigger weight.

The MA compliant parts could probably be found if one bought the entire MA sear block plus the matching trigger assembly. Someone might have those parts for sale on something like ebay. I believe someone already suggest checking with the S&W service folks to see if they'd do the work.
 
You can try posting in the WTB (Want to buy) forum. I've read more than a few posts of folks with the MA complaint M&P looking to install "standard" parts. Perhaps you can find someone willing to ditch their MA trigger parts.
 
I haven't looked lately but in my 1.0 compact I got an Apex Duty/Carry kit. It has a stronger trigger spring and a sear. My intent was to make the initial pull to the wall stiffer but not increase the final pull for ignition too much. This was 5 years ago and I had already done some of the DIY polishing and honestly I am not sure which sear is in the gun now. My pull is a little over 6# and I am quite happy w/ it for a carry gun.
 
Offer to buy MA parts, forums, Armslist. Those in MA usually buy the apex kit. The stock parts might be for sale and will go in without issue. This will give you a 10lb trigger. You could have your dealer order you a MA version gun.
 
I believe the off duty shield carried by NYPD has the MA spring. I tried one my friend has it was heavy but not as heavy as the orange ny trigger spring in my Glock 19.Once I retired I switched the spring to the olive green ny trigger spring.
 
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If you buy the Ma version RED trigger return spring and leave everything else stock the pull will be about 8 lbs. If you put in the red sear spring it jumps to about 12 and is ridiculous. The green trigger return spring gives you a 6-7lb pull. If you move the trigger bar loop up very slightly it will remove some pre-travel if it's a gen. 1, Gen.2 has a slightly different trigger bar and cant be adjusted for pre-travel
 
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