Can "Pawn Shop" engraving be buffed out?

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I found a 1955 K-22 for sale. It has been "Pawn Shop" engraved. I was thinking I'd get it as a shooter. The gun overall is in good shape mechanically, locks up tight, etc. Original asking price is $850. Thinking about offering in the $600 range. Can the engraving be buffed out by somebody like Fords?
 
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I found a 1955 K-22 for sale. It has been "Pawn Shop" engraved. I was thinking I'd get it as a shooter. The gun overall is in good shape mechanically, locks up tight, etc. Original asking price is $850. Thinking about offering in the $600 range. Can the engraving be buffed out by somebody like Fords?

I'm not familiar with the concept of "pawn shop" engraving, so I can't envision the relative damage. Did someone engrave the words "pawn shop" on the gun? :)

Without a picture it's impossible to assess what is pretty much entirely a visual issue. How much area does the engraving cover, how deep is it, etc.
 
Most I've seen is through the finish and isn't going to buff out. Now, if you "buff" hard enough and long enough with the right "grit" you'll get rid of it, along with all the factory stamps too. Probably can't fix it and unless it was done by someone like Wolf & Klar with some provenance it doesn't enhance value as is; probably reduces value. I'd find a nice original finish one for your $600. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
I'm not familiar with the concept of "pawn shop" engraving, so I can't envision the relative damage. Did someone engrave the words "pawn shop" on the gun? :)

Without a picture it's impossible to assess what is pretty much entirely a visual issue. How much area does the engraving cover, how deep is it, etc.

I'm calling it pawn shop engraving from reading threads here. Some call it wriggle or wiggle engraving. From what I have read, it was done a lot by a company called Wolf and Klar back in the day. On this particular gun, it's through the original finish, mostly a scroll work pattern. Looks better from a distance. Probably about as deep as pitting can get.
 
Call the owner a jerk and look for another.

THIS IS GREAT ADVICE ! ! ! THIS IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF A GUN TO STEER CLEAR OF, UNLESS YOU BUY IT DIRT CHEAP, WITH THE INTENTION OF WORRY FREE WOODS WALKING, WITH THE GUN AS IS, ETC......

I DOUBT THAT ENGRAVING CAN BE SIMPLY "BUFFED OUT". AFTER YOU SPEND BIG MONEY, WITH AN OUTFIT LIKE FORDS, YOU WILL STILL HAVE A REFINISHED GUN. IT WOULD PROBABLY BE WORTH LESS, THAN WHAT YOU HAVE INVESTED IN IT........
 
I've seen bad pitting removed by draw file work by a very good gunsmith, with no loss of original roll marks, followed by a complete re-bluing. This did not increase value to the level of a gun with original bluing in good shape, but rescued a gun that would have had little value as it was (never store a gun an old fashioned flannel lined gun case).

So it would be if you found a pro to remove the engraving you don't like. It would increase the value of the gun but probably less than the cost of the work, so it would not be a good business proposition. But it would make it more enjoyable to own.

As to Wolf and Klar engraving and the value it might impart to a specific revolver -- that would take more research.
 
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If you or someone else does the buffing, the gun will look even worse than it does now. In my opinion, the gun is over-priced at $600. The seller would jump if you offered that much.

Don't!
 
Back when I was 'smithing we also had an electroless nickel set-up.

We got in a 1911 with super-deep engraving on the top of the slide that the owner insisted had to go. I filed it all off, then bead-blasted the whole gun and nickled 'er up.

Definitely not original but it made a great carry piece and it made the customer happy.

That K-22 has zero collector's value; I'd offer them $400 since you're looking for a shooter.
 
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"Pawn shop" or "Mexican border" engraving is usually done with an electric pencil and looks very amateurish.

It wouldn't buff out even with a heavy grit and look good. The flat planes would be wavy. They'd need to be laboriously flat sanded and then polished. And very difficult to leave factory lettering if the engraving gets anywhere near them.

About the only decent way to fix is to 'flow' brazing to fill the engraving, sand/polish flat, and nickel plate, dura-coat, etc. Even doing that you'd have to get the gun for $200 to keep it from being a money pit!

If you bought it at $600, you wouldn't be able to show it to your friends....
 
I have a 1951 K-22 that is almost perfect in every way, except for an electro-pencilled drivers license number in the side plate. I paid $400 for it not terribly long ago. I think that one is way overpriced.
 
Buy the gun, knowing what it is, then leave it alone, that way you'll have a great shooter. If anyone asks fib about the price you paid for it.
 
A Wolf & Klar example of pawn shop engraving:

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Photo by bettis1
 
I read that you can't polish a tootsie roll expecting it to be other than still a tootsie roll. I wouldn't ever admit I paid even $600 for it. Pawn shops around here think all old big name guns are good as gold even if it is fools gold.
 
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