case lube alternative

[glowe]

I tend to purchase and use things that are specifically designed for a particular task. Sure case lube cost money, but never had a stuck case when full length sizing or reforming. In my early days I tried some of the above mentioned lubes, but went back to Case Slick after having to remove stuck rifle cases from dies. BTW, that is a real chore and one I want to avoid at all cost in the future!

I load a lot of large caliber brass and find that the surface area contacting the die of a 45-70 or 45-90 makes it much more important what lube you use. Also, reforming 50 Alaskan to 45-75 is something I don't want to be using furniture polish with.

 

[gwpercle]

Anything with Lanoline in it ...an old favorite is the green can of Bag Balm ... has a cool name and great for case lube , chapped , dry skin on feet or hands .
My Dad was a Utility Lineman for the power co and every night rubbed Bag Balm onto his hands and feet ... we never owned a cow !
In 1967 I started reloading and didn't have any case lube ...STP works but is messy ...Bag Balm was much cleaner and Dad had plenty of the little green cans around .
Gary

 

[rockquarry]

I tend to purchase and use things that are specifically designed for a particular task. Sure case lube cost money, but never had a stuck case when full length sizing or reforming. In my early days I tried some of the above mentioned lubes, but went back to Case Slick after having to remove stuck rifle cases from dies. BTW, that is a real chore and one I want to avoid at all cost in the future!

I load a lot of large caliber brass and find that the surface area contacting the die of a 45-70 or 45-90 makes it much more important what lube you use. Also, reforming 50 Alaskan to 45-75 is something I don't want to be using furniture polish with.

I'll agree with you on case forming. Best to use a lube like Imperial or equivalent for true heavy duty work. For light duty full-length sizing, I don't think the lube makes much difference, but case lube will always be the very best choice. Some may consider it expensive, but when you consider how far a container of lube will go, the cost is minimal.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

With carbide dies, I doubt I have lubed a pistol case in about forty years or so.

Generally true, but even good carbide sizing dies can use a little help at times. When sizing large quantities of pistol brass I have found that a very light application of lube on every 10th case keeps everything operating smoothly and with reduced effort.

Johnsons Paste Wax works very well. A very small amount on the fingertips, then around the case walls. Quick and easy, no mess, wipes off with a cloth. I've been using it for many years.

One thing about carbide dies that many seem unaware of is that the carbide sizer uses an annular-shaped sizing ring that reduces the case diameter equally from mouth to case-head, the diameter being reduced somewhat below the maximum needed to hold the bullet when seated. Not so much of an issue with true straight-walled cases (.38 Spl, .357 mag, etc), but with many semi-auto calibers the cases are slightly tapered (9mm, .40S&W, .45ACP, etc) so the finished cartridge can be "wasp-waist" shape with the center portions of the case walls remaining undersized while the case head receives no sizing and the mouth is expanded by bullet seating. Depending on the actual dimensions of the sizing die (and they are all a bit different due to manufacturing tolerances) the carbide dies can cause more working of the brass (greater stress applied each time).

Conventional hardened steel dies can be machined to produce the tapered case walls as originally intended for those tapered cases, and do so with less working of the brass. So, in one way standard steel dies can be preferred over carbide dies, even though lubrication is a required part of the process in use.

 

[mikld]

My main consideration for a case lube is "slickness" and cases not getting stuck i a die. But also I consider what it may be like handling a case after sizing, so I stay away from things like motor oil, petroleum jelly, and keep STP 43' away from my bench. I have used PAM. and Pledge is also a good idea, but for maybe 30 years have used Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream. Goes on easily, cleans up easily, works as well as any commercial lube I've tried and is cheap and found most anywhere...

I had a couple jobs where I sourced parts from other than OEM parts (I worked with a foreign lighting mfg and searched US made replacement parts). I like to do the same with reloading tools and supplies. I have found many items/tools with out the "Reloading" label that work just as well, some better, than dedicated reloading named stuff. JPW, boot dressing, women's nursing breast cream and "personal body lubrication" products have worked well for brass sizing...

 

[ajgunner]

I was recently inside a commercial reloading operation. I asked what they lubed with. I was told that they use Dillon spray lube bought in gallon cans but Dillon has been out for months. Dillon told them to use Lanolin oil and alcohol at 1 to 12 mixture. They were hand spraying/spritzing 223 cases in a shallow tub then hand mixing them and spraying again with the idea of getting a bit inside the mouths. After sizing they returned them to a corn cob tumbler before being loaded.

 

[Moe Mentum]

Lanolin and alcohol.

 

[Culina]

Olive Oil!

 

[Jounior]

Cooking spray.

PAM and Hornady One Shot are about the same thing but PAM is lots cheaper.

 

[kbm6893]

With carbide dies, I doubt I have lubed a pistol case in about forty years or so.

When I started I didn’t lube pistol brass but then I tried it. The lube does make a noticeable difference.

 

[kbm6893]

Straight wall pistol cases can use just about anything that is slick like vasoline!

Rifle cases present a whole other problem! The case head needs special lubes and many LUBES mentioned above will not provide the needed lubricity!

To make cost effective case lube for rifle and everything else get liquid anhydrous lanolin (oil) and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Both available at some pharmacies and on line!

Mix 40:1 or 1 ounce to 40 ounces in a spray bottle. You've just duplicated Dillon's case lube!

Another option is old school. Use lanolin grease and spread on a felt pad and just roll several cases at a time to spread the lube along the case especially the head area. Not necessary to cover the neck!

Just a quick wipe with a paper towel gets must of the lube off and leaves a little to prevent oxidation!

Smiles,

I use that formula to make my own, but it doesn’t do as good a job on rifle brass. Had a few cases get stuck in die. Now I use Hornady Case Lube for rifle. Does a better job.

 

[nipperdog]

I have been using Lanolin for the past 20yrs. It stinks but does a great job on everything from 30-06 to 38spl.

 

[stu1ritter]

When I started I didn’t lube pistol brass but then I tried it. The lube does make a noticeable difference.

For those of us who are not equipped with 25 year young shoulders or have done manual work for 40 or 50 years, a tad bit of RCBS case lube every 20-30 cases sure makes everything slide easier thru my carbide sizer die. My well worn out right shoulder
really appreciates the effort reduction at the press handle.

Stu

 

[twodog max]

I use RCBS case lube for dies and calibers that require lube. Been doing so for like 50 years. Tried spray lube once and promptly stuck a case. So back to RCBS. I cannot understand all the gyrations of trying strange concoctions when proven lubes are readily available. Maybe it is just me and my if it ain't broke don't fix it attitude.

 

[SMSgt]

I used RCBS lube for years too and always hated it. Just messy to clean up. Switched to Imperial case lube and never looked back. Still trying to use up the first tin I bought. It goes a long ways.

 

[PALADIN85020]

I found that STP oil additive works very well. I put some on a stamp pad, and never had a problem with rifle cases. One bottle should last a lifetime. For pistol cases, I just use carbide dies.

John

 

[Old Corp]

I've often used simple spray silicone. Place whatever quantity of cases in a ziplock bag, spritz with silicone, shake, empty, ready to go.

 

[Dino1]

At one time I used "one shot" but it's costly when doing large numbers of cases. Now I just make my own using a 10 to 1 ratio of 95% alcohol and pure liquid lanolin. Put the mix in a small spray bottle use a agitator of some sort (I use a marble) put the cases in a container spray and let the alcohol evaporate.

Instead of using 95% alcohol use ISO HEET gas treatment, you can get it at the auto parts store or Wally World. it is 99% alcohol no water added. It is the stuff in the RED bottle. Mix it 12 to 1 with liquid lanolin, this is the same mixture that Dillon case lube is.

 

[fredj338]

At one time I used "one shot" but it's costly when doing large numbers of cases. Now I just make my own using a 10 to 1 ratio of 95% alcohol and pure liquid lanolin. Put the mix in a small spray bottle use a agitator of some sort (I use a marble) put the cases in a container spray and let the alcohol evaporate.

I use case lube, water based is easiest to clean off. If making my own, alcohol/lanolin works great, east to wipe off, just roll finished rds in an old towel. STP or wd40, really???

 

[cmj8591]

I spit on my cases when I size them. I get the "use what you have around the house" idea but holy cow man, how much of the stuff are you going to use that it makes it cost prohibitive to go online and just order some sizing lube? Motor oil, olive oil, reconstituted mink oil, this is an entertaining thread for sure! I wonder if they talk on the food forums about using One Shot on your salad when you run out of vinaigrette?