Case Stuck in Re-sizing Die

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kbm6893

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I guess it was bound to finally happen. I was resizing .223 brass and a case got stuck. Brass was lubed. I saw a youtube video that had me tap the pin out from the top and the pin and brass came out, but the pin is still stuck in there. What do you guys do?
 
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The pin is in the case? On a 223 case I destroy the case! on a rare case I would do the opposite. You might try getting a shell holder on the rim and put in in the press with no die and grip the pin (I assume you mean the decapping rod) with tape wrapped pliers and pull apart to salvage the rod. But 223 brass is so plentiful I would just cut the head off the case and slide the rod out. It is a 50 cent brass (at most), and 5 to 10 dollar rod! A plumbing pipe cutter work well, and anywhere below the shoulder, you don't want to hit the expander ball!

Ivan
 
It is a Lee Die. I got it out. I used a small pipe cutter and just spun it around the case a few times and it cut the case.

It was a .223 case. I had lubed it. I have been using a homemade case lube. It’s done thousands of cases no problem. It does seem to dry fast.

The pin looks ok. I’ll reassemble it tomorrow and lube I’m smaller batches. I should pick up some extra pins. I’ve never had to replace a rifle die pin before. Does it use the same pin as a pistol die? I would think not.
 
For some reason some 223 cases won't resize without a lot of force. When I hit the hard spot I stop and remove it and go to another. I don't know the problem but it is not the lube and easier to trash than looking for the problem and having a stuck case.
 
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Sorry, but this post has me confused! It reads as though you are more concerned with saving the recapping pin and expander ball than the die!

I tend to have 2-3 stuck cases each year with the volume of 223 match ammo that I load each year. Usually, when a case gets stuck, the run pulls out of the shell holder. When this happens, I back the stem out of the case as far as I can. Then, I break out my stuck case tool, drill the primer pocket, tap the case head, then torque the case out of the sizing die.

Typically, die manufacturers will remove a stuck case for about $5. Between the time not able to reload because the die is in the mail, I have found the stuck case removal kit to be a worthwhile investment!
 
I stuck one and managed to get it out, but I had no idea it was such a common problem. Definitely one I don't want to have to deal with repeatedly.

I bought a universal depriming die. My plan is to deprime and resize in two separate steps.

I figure I'll remove the pin from the resizing die, and use it to resize the exterior of the case, then deprime using the 223 pin in the universal depriming die to deprime and flare the neck.

Anybody see any potential issues with that plan?
 
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BC38 said:
I stuck one and managed to get it out, but I had no idea it was such a common problem. Definitely one I don't want to have to deal with repeatedly.

I bought a universal depriming die. My plan is to deprime and resize in two separate steps.

I figure I'll remove the pin from the resizing die, and use it to resize the exterior of the case, then deprime using the 223 pin in the universal depriming die to deprime and flare the neck.

Anybody see any potential issues with that plan?
Click to expand...

In my experience, the pin is not what gets stuck or the problem. The expander ball will not come out of a case while it's stuck in the die. You may be able to remove the decapping stem if it's a screw-on type, but the expander will remain in the case.

The only cases I've stuck were .223s, each time using "homemade" case lubes of different types. Since I've switched to Imperial resizing lube, nary a one has come close.

I've found Imperial wax to be too cheap, last too long, and long proven to prevent stuck cases to be concerned with saving a nickel with any homemade lubes.

If you want to resize/deprime in two steps, I recommend deprime first, then resize.
 
lrrifleman said:
Sorry, but this post has me confused! It reads as though you are more concerned with saving the recapping pin and expander ball than the die!

I tend to have 2-3 stuck cases each year with the volume of 223 match ammo that I load each year. Usually, when a case gets stuck, the run pulls out of the shell holder. When this happens, I back the stem out of the case as far as I can. Then, I break out my stuck case tool, drill the primer pocket, tap the case head, then torque the case out of the sizing die.

Typically, die manufacturers will remove a stuck case for about $5. Between the time not able to reload because the die is in the mail, I have found the stuck case removal kit to be a worthwhile investment!
Click to expand...


I guess I’m confused as well. I’ve only been loading for 7 years. I replaced a de-capping pin one time on a pistol die because it bent. I have never had an issue with the rifle pin until now.

The case got stuck and the ram wouldn’t go back down so when I forced it the case left the shell holder and the ram when down. The case was still in the die.

I watched a video on YouTube. I loosened the nut holding the pin and tapped the pin downward using a punch and a hammer. The case fell from the die with the pin still in it.



I could not remove the pin. I used a plumbers pipe cutter and spun it a few times. The case was cleanly cut and I was able to get the pin.

The rod has no ball on there. It is a Lee die. The rod flares out a bit for the bottom portion Is this the ball? How could I save the ball? It’s not a separate part of the rod. If that was toast then I’d have to chuck the whole thing

I have a universal depriming die I used to use it but started wet tumbling without pins my brass, then I would deprime and resize in one step after lubing. I figured why do two steps instead of one? Maybe I’ll go back to the old way. But couldn’t the case also get stuck if I’m just resizing without a dead primer in the pocket?
 
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Lee dies use a unique system (on the more recent production) and that part is not a lifetime warranty part! The bulge is the internal neck sizing "button" and is caliber and length specific.

There are 2 different styles of stuck case removers, 1) the RCBS type where you drill and thread the primer pocket. I have used mine hundreds of times! 2) the Bonanza type. It jacks the stem up through the stuck case neck. Then you use a rod and drive the case out of the die. I have used mine ONCE, in a RCBS 300 Blackout die. The resizing chamber is too short to get the decapping pin out of the way for drilling the primer pocket! I just happen to have the Bonanza from buying a box of stuff gun shops can't sell, or I would have had to mail in the die. This type puller would be for bottle neck cases like 300 BO, 221 Fireball, and 30 Mauser, maybe 30 Lugar (all of those rounds can be made from 223 and I do) There may be others .

Ivan
 
As already recommended here: Buy a stuck case remover.
They are not expensive and work.

Sometime a case sticks in the die and you have no idea why. You treaded all the cases the same way and suddenly it happens.

Just had to remove a stuck case last weekend for a friend. After a few minutes the case was out of the die. For me just a few minutes of work, but he has to wait one week until we see us again.
 
Ivan the Butcher said:
Lee dies use a unique system (on the more recent production) and that part is not a lifetime warranty part! The bulge is the internal neck sizing "button" and is caliber and length specific...
Click to expand...
Mine is a Lee die set as well, and this is how I was thinking worked.

Seems to me that in my case what is happening is the neck of the brass gets wedged between the shell of the die that does the external sizing of the case neck and the bulge in the pin that does the internal neck sizing.

The brass is being forced into the gap between the internal and external sizing parts at the same time and it is getting stuck. So I was thinking that if I can resize the neck exterior first, then resize the interior in a separate step that should eliminate the problem with neck wall getting stuck between the internal and external sizing parts of the die.

Since the universal depriming die doesn't attempt to resize the case exterior, I figure that installing the pin with the neck resizing button into the universal deprimer die body shouldn't cause the kind of sticking problems I've seen.

The one case that got stuck was SO stuck that the shell holder pulled half of the rim off the head of the case when the ram tried to pull it out of the die. I ended up getting it out by loosening the collar that secures the depriming pin and giving the exposed end of the pin a few taps with a screwdriver handle until it drove the case out of the die body.

SMSgt said:
If you want to resize/deprime in two steps, I recommend deprime first, then resize.
Click to expand...
I can try it both ways. My logic behind resizing first then depriming was to make sure the neck resizing by the depriming pin was the last operation - that way it is properly sized to accept the bullet.

I was thinking that if I resize the inside of the neck with the depriming pin/button first, and then resize the case exterior it might squeeze the neck down too tight to accept the bullet. Though using boat-tailed bullets would correct that. Might even eliminate the need to do any kind of crimp.

I'll experiment with doing it both ways, and see how it goes.
 
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I would definitely add a little more moisture "Juice" to you home made lube................. to keep that from happening again.

Lubes, should not dry out.

Have fun.
 
What is your method of applying case lube to rifle cases?

I've been reloading since the late 60's!

I used to apply lube by rolling 5 cases at a time on a lube pad. I switched to spray lube for a few years and began experiencing stuck cases!

Because of the "down time" of removing stuck cases I have returned to "rolling" cases again no more stuck cases!

As far as lube I use pure anhydrous lanolin. Yes, I continue to spray 9mm in bulk but stuck cases are never a problem because of the reduced pressure during resizing.

Smiles,
 
Thanks for all the replies. I took the die apart and reinstalled the pin. There seems to be a slight bend to it but I used it to finish the 75 cases or so left in this batch. I will order more does from Lee and install a new one.

As for lube, I am using 1.5 ounces of pure lanolin added to 16 ounces of 99% isopropyl alcohol. It’s in a spray bottle and I give it a shake before using. I put maybe 100 cases into a Tupperware, liberally spray them, close the kids and shake up the cases, and then resize. I do notice some slide in better than others but never had an issue before this. Maybe I’ll spritz less than I have at a time. I’ve tried the pads but it takes forger to lube 4 or 5 at a time rolling on a pad. I used to use Hornady One Shot case lube spray but it’s expensive and I just figured the homemade was the same but much cheaper.
 
BC38 said:
Mine is a Lee die set as well, and this is how I was thinking worked.

Seems to me that in my case what is happening is the neck of the brass gets wedged between the shell of the die that does the external sizing of the case neck and the bulge in the pin that does the internal neck sizing.

The brass is being forced into the gap between the internal and external sizing parts at the same time and it is getting stuck. So I was thinking that if I can resize the neck exterior first, then resize the interior in a separate step that should eliminate the problem with neck wall getting stuck between the internal and external sizing parts of the die.

Since the universal depriming die doesn't attempt to resize the case exterior, I figure that installing the pin with the neck resizing button into the universal deprimer die body shouldn't cause the kind of sticking problems I've seen.

The one case that got stuck was SO stuck that the shell holder pulled half of the rim off the head of the case when the ram tried to pull it out of the die. I ended up getting it out by loosening the collar that secures the depriming pin and giving the exposed end of the pin a few taps with a screwdriver handle until it drove the case out of the die body.


I can try it both ways. My logic behind resizing first then depriming was to make sure the neck resizing by the depriming pin was the last operation - that way it is properly sized to accept the bullet.

I was thinking that if I resize the inside of the neck with the depriming pin/button first, and then resize the case exterior it might squeeze the neck down too tight to accept the bullet. Though using boat-tailed bullets would correct that. Might even eliminate the need to do any kind of crimp.

I'll experiment with doing it both ways, and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

I hate to tell you this is not a workable system. In normal FL and Small Base FL dies The case is sized all at once FROM THE WEB ALL THE WAY TO THE CASE MOUTH. The neck portion is sized extra small, then as you remove the case from the die the sizing button opens the neck back up to about .220 for 223 Rem/5.56 NATO. This takes place after the body of the case is out of contact with the sizing die interior.

Several die makers offer sizing dies that the neck is sized at the time the body is but you use a "Collet" (NOTHING LIKE A LEE COLLET DIE) to size the outside of the neck to a specific size (it includes the neck wall thickness for both walls, usually .015 per side =.030" plus .224 = .254 this has no neck tension, so subtract a few .001's. Brands and lots of brass very in thickness so I own 4 or 6 collets for 22 caliber centerfire rounds, and around the same number of collets for 6mm, 6.5mm, 7.62mm, & 338 (I own only 2 collets one for Hornady brass and one for Lapua brass)

3 to 4 .001's neck tension is like having a very firm taper crimp, so no crimping step is needed, even for ammo used in an AR Platform

This type of sizing die is 2 to 4 times as expensive as a regular FL die (plus the cost of each collet) so most people don't own or even heard of them.

Ivan
 
Ivan the Butcher said:
I hate to tell you this is not a workable system. In normal FL and Small Base FL dies The case is sized all at once FROM THE WEB ALL THE WAY TO THE CASE MOUTH. The neck portion is sized extra small, then as you remove the case from the die the sizing button opens the neck back up to about .220 for 223 Rem/5.56 NATO. This takes place after the body of the case is out of contact with the sizing die interior.
Click to expand...
Hmmn, OK, so you're saying that my thinking that the wall of the neck is getting swedged between the expander button on the depriming pin and the body of the die is incorrect?

Surely you aren't saying that FL resizing the body of the case with no depriming pin in the die, then in a second step resizing the neck and depriming the case won't work.

Because in your description above that is exactly what happens - at least in terms of sequence. The body of the die does a FL resize of the case and THEN the sizing button opens up the case mouth AFTER the FL resize of the case is complete. I don't see where making those two things separate steps could make it an "unworkable system" - since the same two things are still being done in the same sequence with the same die body and the same depriming pin. They are just being done in separate steps on the press.

Unless I'm misunderstanding your description or what you are trying to say.
 
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