I have been loading for the .38 S&W Special forever and have a lot of diameter .357-.358 cast bullets of different weights. I recently acquired an Iver Johnsons Hammerless in .38 S&W circa 1927, a smokeless powder gun. The literature says it has a diameter of .361 which is a bit larger. I also have a lot of cast bullets for the .380/9mm diameter .356 at 100gr, as well. Trying to match the right bullet and the right charge. Anybody reload for an old Iver Johnsons. Your thoughts, suggestions and experience are appreciated.
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Cast Lead Bullets For The .38 S&W
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rockquarry
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Use the largest bullet that will chamber without difficulty or one that will barely go through the chamber throats. If it falls through, it's too loose and accuracy won't be good.
There are always exceptions, but try a .358" bullet since you have them. However, I'll bet you'll need a .360" or .361" for best results.
There are always exceptions, but try a .358" bullet since you have them. However, I'll bet you'll need a .360" or .361" for best results.
DWalt
Member
.357-.358 lead bullets work just fine in .38 S&W for me. SAAMI specs for .38 S&W bullets go down to .355 diameter. Use what you have.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
For 38 S&W bullet hardness is of importance! Wheel weights and Lyman #2 alloy are too hard! A 98% lead 2 % tin alloy is a nice soft alloy and will obturate and fill the groves nicely. 38 S&W velocities are low enough that leading is normally not a problem. My .357" sized bullets work in all my 38 S&W top breaks. They include Iver Johnson, H&R, and S&W.
Ivan
Just make sure the loads match the age and quality of the revolver, used...
and the dia of it's cylinder, if possible.
A .358 should be ok for close, light target work.
Have fun.
and the dia of it's cylinder, if possible.
A .358 should be ok for close, light target work.
Have fun.
rockquarry
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I had six or so old Remington .38 S&W cartridges, probably from the '40s or '50s, that I recently broke down along with a bunch of other odds and ends. The .38 S&W bullets (swaged or cast, I couldn't tell for sure) measured between .359" to just over .360" using a micrometer, not a caliper, for what that might be worth.
ironhead7544
Member
Check Matt's Bullets.
cgt4570
SWCA Member
If you have a .357 mould, I've read that you can put a piece or two of aluminum duct tape between the 2 halves of the mould to make it drop a slightly larger diameter bullet. I haven't tried yet since I have plenty of old Remington .361 bullets. I did buy a special drill bit to make a sizing block to push them through for uniformity if/when it comes to that.
But as others have said, it you shoot a soft lead .357-358, it will obturate (bump up) to the bore and groove diameter.
But as others have said, it you shoot a soft lead .357-358, it will obturate (bump up) to the bore and groove diameter.
mmaher94087
SWCA Member
Missouri Bullets had .361 in lead.
Put two small pieces of tape on either end of the mold. The caveat is that you must also have a sizing die that is large enough to fill the throats.
I will forever state that 38 Special bullets do not work well in many 38 S&W revolvers. The difference is big enough for the smaller bullets to strip the rifling when shot, resulting in key-holes and leaded barrels. Using the right bullet for the right caliber is always the best choice, so shoot what is stamped on the barrel for best performance.
The bullets I use are .361" - 145 LRN from Missouri Bullet Company and they load in 38 S&W cases perfectly. I have encountered problems with crimping too small bullets (.357") into the too large 38 S&W case (.361") and ending up with bullet movement of the cartridges in the cylinder.
The bullets I use are .361" - 145 LRN from Missouri Bullet Company and they load in 38 S&W cases perfectly. I have encountered problems with crimping too small bullets (.357") into the too large 38 S&W case (.361") and ending up with bullet movement of the cartridges in the cylinder.
I resize my .38 S&W cases in .38 spl dies so they will also fit in and shoot in my wife's "J" frame Ladysmith. I use the same in my H&R and Smith & Wesson top break. They are bad breath distance bullets not 100 yard target fodder. And if I have to shoot some AH at 25 yds well what do I care if it keyholes.
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I'm the anomaly here because I tend to load lighter than normal bullets when reloading 38 S&W. At a flea market I found a homemade bullet mold that throws a 129gn SWC at .362 which I lube with Alox. I think someone was trying for a 9x19 bullet and made it too large. I start with 2.0 gns of Bullseye and adjust the load until I get a usable POI. All I'm doing is shooting paper or pop cans so the lighter bullet is fine.
