Choosing the Right Glue

Call a Loctite rep. They have hundreds of industrial fixes now. They can tell you exactly what will work.
If I had to work with only what I already know, I would clean it with gasoline, drill worm holes on the mating surfaces, then use PC7 epoxy.
 
While I think JB Weld is the all time best and strongest 2 part Epoxy glue (use it all the time), I do not think it's a viable fix in this case - at least for any length of time if the gun is to be shot. Welding is permanent and should withstand shooting IMO.

You can't weld pot metal.......Try it.....It turns to ash.
 
The earlier Scout grip frames (and the gun frame itself) were aluminum.

When the 'Frontier Scout '62' was introd'd in 1962,,the frame and grip frame material was changed to Zamac.

This to increase the overall weight of the pistol a bit as the earlier ones were thought to be 'too light'.

'Zamac' is a zinc alloy w/ (copper?) die cast metal that is used in a lot of different applications.
Those Ithaca M49 lever action single shot 22 rifles from the 60's and 70's had their frames cast of Zamac. Quite a few other guns have used it in both frames (22rf) and misc parts like trigger guards, butt plates, ect.

I'm not much of a welder
Aluminum alloys are weldable depending on which one they are.
Zinc alloys are weldable too but within limits and with special filler rod and techniques.

I think if you do some research on 'welding die cast zinc alloys' you'll find that it is possible and is done with special rod and O/A at a certain flame.

The joint strength may not be all that much, but the material itself isn't very strong either in those thin places.
A bit of extra reinforcement would help.

Perhaps one of the welding specialty/restoration shops could answer the question best and of course at what price.

Those extra Scout grip frames sold are sometimes rejects from the vendor that made them originally. They may be out of allaignment slightly, or undersize at one critical point so they were scrapped.
The ones I've seen needed quite a bit of work to be fitted and then some more to overcome the problem for which they weren't used in the first place.

Not all offered are probably that way, but it's something to watch for before moving forward with a weeks worth of filing and fitting.
 
Spent over 33 years as an Ironworker and did a lot of welding.
By the 1990's welding had come a long way from the welding rod to the new wire machines that filled huge fittings, in just minutes.
Mig, plasma cutters, its all a new ball game plus the newer mini wire welding that fit on your wrist............

Aluminum is no longer a problem to weld......
just finding a shop that has time for your project, is the problem, but it will make it shoot able and safe again.
 
I don't think you'll be happy with any repair.

1. it's too late now with all the epoxy contamination. But when you have a clean break like yours, none of the "filling" type glues will give you an unseen joint. Only Crazy glue is made for a joint with no gap. It does not fill. With the jagged fracture you have, the total surface area is tripled, that's ideal for Crazy glue.

2. the frame in post 17 will not even come close enough to allow fitting plus the screw holes will not align at all. I have both guns and just compared them.

3. The only satisfactory solution is a replacement. Have a smith fit the frame you bought and have it gold anodized.

4. Colt made thousands of those commemoratives.
Ebay: set up a search for "Colt gun parts kit".

And Gunbroker: "parts kit colt"

You'll get an email each morning with new listings. You'll find one.
 
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