Cleaning pistol bore?

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I routinely use bore solvent , which is superb for powder residue, and occasionally use a copper solvent, which removes metallic residue. It is very hard to see mild copper fouling, which usually appears as a somewhat dull but clean looking bore. I am not a great fan of routinely spraying the entire gun with gun scrubber; spraying it down the bore is fine, followed by a brass brush.
 
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Dear all,

I'm relatively new to our shootingsport, and recently bought an M&P22.
But what is the best way to clean a .22, the reason is that I've asked the gunshop and heard that you won't have to clean an .22 because it not that important because it shoots always...
And how to lube it, and with what?

And does anyone has experience with Strike Hold? An true multi-function product that cleans, lubricates, protects, demoisturizes and conditions??
 
You don't need to scrub the bejabbers out of most 22 rimfire barrels. Run a couple of patches damp with CLP or gun oil through, followed by a couple of dry patches. You will cause more damage to the bore trying to keep it spotless than you ever will shooting soft lead .22 bullets at low velocity.
 
You don't need to scrub the bejabbers out of most 22 rimfire barrels. Run a couple of patches damp with CLP or gun oil through, followed by a couple of dry patches. You will cause more damage to the bore trying to keep it spotless than you ever will shooting soft lead .22 bullets at low velocity.

I'm not real big on cleaning .22 bores. I have seen target guns with literally thousands of subsonic rounds downrange without being cleaned and they still deliver x-ring accuracy. One of my personal target rifles takes 25+ rounds through the bore after cleaning before it settles down and gives normal accuracy. It no longer gets cleaned.

I will swab or brush out a chamber on a semi-auto that starts jamming.

An initial cleaning of a new gun is something different altogether.
 
Re; Centerfire firearms. There are three types of fouling that occur during the firing process: Metal residue from lead bullets and/or copper jackets, residue of powder both post combustion and un-burned or incomplete burn and the chemical residue produced by the combustion of the primer compound. Depending on a whole myriad of factors the fouling can vary from significant to nil in any of those three groups. You have to work by empirical observation and figure out which are are the most significant to your firearm and your ammo. Any good bore solvent will clean most of the powder and the primer residue out leaving only the metal fouling to contend with. Some bore solvent manufactures claim to also be removing metal fouling, but in my experience there is nothing better than a dedicated metal fouling bore cleaner to get rid of leading or copper fouling. ....... So, my recommendation is to first clean as much of the powder/primer residue out as possible and only then attack the metal fouling. When you have scrubbed a rifled bore down to bare steel you have to protect the surface with a coating of preservative. Which preservative you use depends upon how long it is going to be until the next use of that firearm and what sort of atmospheric situation will that firearm be stored. Going to shoot tomorrow? Then a light coat of WD 40 is enough. Going to shoot next year this time? Then a good swabbing with a preservative bore oil is a firm requirement. Going to take your rifle out on your sail boat for a two week cruise? Then a thorough cleaning followed by a good application of a wax coating of both the bore and the outside surfaces is called for. So, no one answer is good for all..........
 

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